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Honda-ELD
Here it's an ELD Electrical Load Detector that was screwing me, and a way to get around it and still pass emissions (bypass with resistor).

This car I purchased for $1400, I would simply never pay $450+ for this electrical system that now doesn't drop below 13.4V at retarded deafening volumes (although they are GREAT QUALITY alternators). Just picked up a rebuilt alternator I found at a junkyard for $30 lol 3 month free warranty, and keeping my fully functional one as a backup. I'm well aware 99% of companies rebuild them to only last a year so you have to keep paying them. Stinger I've heard great things about, same with Mechman, Ohio Gen, Iraggi. Probably some of the only reputable alternator companies left that don't advertise their 220A output at 6k RPM's like the crooks do.

My alternator swap for me took only 30 minutes, I actually saw this genius DIY write-up who took his axle off when all I did was take a fuel line and power steering hose off, two bolts then pulled it out the top lol. Dropped it back in and done, it's taken me longer to change my oil before(darn Jiffy lube purposely over-tightening it, make me stick a screw driver through it)... Not against these companies, and I realize it costs money for REAL quality. But I'm 24 and poor, and happy to take 30 minutes to swap alternators when needed (probably about a half year from now). Again I'm not trying to say HO alternators from Stinger and other reputable companies aren't worth every penny. They custom build these things and that costs not only money but time, and I give respect when it is due, they are great units.

Perhaps five years from now when I can afford a car that's not a beater, I will invest in the Stinger HO. But I want to have the sound system to suck the juice, mine is only 2,360 watts RMS pretty whimpy.
I never had success with the ELD bypass on my car. My case the resistor probably wasn't enough to trick the ELD into a higher output. For those who may wonder. The bypass is very safe and will not put any more strain on a alt. It would last just as long as without this feature. As far as fuel economy. You may or may not see much of a difference. Even with the HO alt I have there wasn't any notable drop in MPG. One thing people don't tend to do and don't realize is that IF your battery is weak the voltage out of the alt will sag over say a strong battery. A alt is essentially a trickle charger/power supply. When the vehicle is running the alt is supplying the power. The battery at this point is storage/backup and the alt will maintain charge of the battery. Also whenever you get a new battery, if you can, always use a external charger to charge the battery fully. In many cases the battery is roughly 80% charged to increase shelf life.

I can understand not wanting to toss more money into a beater but on experience with my brothers truck (went through 4 remanufatured alts of varying issues) and with talking to Mike himself and actually seeing/feeling what crap goes into remanufatured alts. I can honestly say the price is worth it. In many cases your getting something that will most definitely last a lifetime. You may be supprised how little a rebuilt alt can be. Just to give you a idea. My stock alt rebuilt is under 200.
 

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Discussion Starter #22
My battery is new but just load tested it anyways just to make sure it is operating properly (2 year warranty). A bad battery will not charge it's pretty simple. It's most definitely the ELD however, I know because when my voltage drops to 12.8V and I turn on my A/C it goes back up to 14.4V like clockwork because of the increased amperage load. I have tested this multiple times and finally discovered the pattern.

I'm not trying to argue that these reman alternators aren't junk(you are not the first I've heard to go through his fourth or fifth reman alternator). However as I said I have two fully functional alternators now, and 30 minutes will change it if need be (also the other one I have I know for fact to be 100% OEM). $200 is way too much for this car, although I have seen DIY writeups for Denso alternators that cost pretty close actually using the TRUE OEM parts (not in China). So for Stinger to do that for that price, that's actually pretty reasonable I think, I honestly don't think I could do it for much cheaper even doing it myself lol. Also I'm not sure what benefit a lifetime alternator would be for a car that one may not have next year, seeing as the voltage regulator will only work on other 96-00 select beater Hondas...

Sharing knowledge is the only way we can be informed though, and it's good to be aware of all the crap that's out there. Very often low voltage doesn't have anything to do with the alternator itself (corroded terminals, bad wiring, bad battery cell, even the ECU I've heard on some cars control the voltage regulator think it's Dodge go figure). So I hope this helps anyone with low voltage problems in the future, don't condemn the alternator too quickly as I did.

Thanks everyone for their contributions, great forums these are.
 

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Discussion Starter #23
Just for fun I'm looking at voltage regulators for my Denso, I can't find where to even get a quality one for any cheaper than like $100 from RockAuto. So looks like in the future I may actually have to give Stinger a call, appreciate the suggestion Beckerson1, however I'll save this trick for another car.
 
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