DiyMobileAudio.com Car Stereo Forum banner

1 - 20 of 32 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,815 Posts
Discussion Starter #1

* I have just a little bit of aluminum here.


* Front brackets to hold them in place will be aluminum angle just like the bars.


* Allen bolts + lock washer + brass washer (have one on both sides)


* This is where the wires will connect for the amps, grounds, flux caps, etc

Should be able to pull a few amps through that :)

3" x 2" angle @ 1/4" thickness
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,815 Posts
Discussion Starter #9
When I post the pics with everything installed you will see why I cannot fit any more :)

I should have it at least playing by this weekend for an SPL competition.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
322 Posts
Better paint it with some rubberized coating. That thing could surely cause some major sparks! Nice job though!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,815 Posts
Discussion Starter #12

* Wires installed onto bars






* Taped over the ends of the + bar near the chassis


* Flux Caps and SAX-50.4 on bottom amp rack


* Only the "-" bar is exposed

 

·
Registered
Joined
·
7,406 Posts
That's crazy Jake, but not for SPL I guess...

You know, if there was any way of you raising your amp rack, the leinght of one battery, you could easily get 6 more in.. You could simply flip your + bus bar over, and put the other 6, standing on their ends right onto it.. Then you would have another negative bus, on the very top of everything..

Obviously, I don't know what the plan is overall, but it would be a easy way of getting more batteries in... If you are planning a box with a pair/quad of 15/18" drivers, I would think that adding the batteries like I mentioned, would bring the amp rack up to just below the top of the enclosure... ?

Again, I donno what you are up to, so, i'm just spitballin..
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,815 Posts
Discussion Starter #14
That's crazy Jake, but not for SPL I guess...

You know, if there was any way of you raising your amp rack, the leinght of one battery, you could easily get 6 more in.. You could simply flip your + bus bar over, and put the other 6, standing on their ends right onto it.. Then you would have another negative bus, on the very top of everything..

Obviously, I don't know what the plan is overall, but it would be a easy way of getting more batteries in... If you are planning a box with a pair/quad of 15/18" drivers, I would think that adding the batteries like I mentioned, would bring the amp rack up to just below the top of the enclosure... ?

Again, I donno what you are up to, so, i'm just spitballin..
With two layers of amps I'd be above the window line which is against the rules in my SPL classes.

If I re-do the setup with a forward firing box I can put a bunch behind the box - which I may do later if I can't get a 160 out of my new box!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
185 Posts
Great work, I can't imagine all this gear I see in some of the spl cars. It is some serious gear, don't get me wrong its sweet but it still blows my mind at how much stuff you guys can get in the vehicle.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
784 Posts
I like the way you've done it but like somelse said, I would seriously consider coating the bars in some type of rubberised coating, the potential for a catastrophic failure there is huge, I can't imagine how many dollars would go down the drain if something arced the two bars or even from your battery locating bars to the positive bus bar. It would be as simple as tapeing the spots where the contact is made to the batteries and terminals and then spraying the rest with car underbody coating, 10 minutes extra work could save alot of heartache latter down the track.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
64 Posts
I'll throw in two suggestions that might squeeze a touch more out of your buss system.

1)take off what oxidation you have on your buss at all the connection points with some light sanding. I didn't see anything in your pics suggesting that you did.

2)treat those same points with anti oxidant like this for example:

Utilco - Electrical connectors, compression, taps, splicers, grounding and more

It wouldn't hurt to put that same compound on your bolt threads that you're using for connections.

You probably wouldn't notice much of anything right off the hop, but aluminum untreated becomes aluminum oxide fairly quickly. Aluminum Oxide will create a resistance at your connection points. Resistance creates heat which helps produce Aluminum Oxide, not SPL...

Might as well nip it in the bud while you can.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
64 Posts
The amps have their own from the look of them.

Personally, I wouldn't bother with protection for 3ft of wire. That's all the fuse would be protecting anyway...
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,815 Posts
Discussion Starter #20
Is it just me or am i seeing NO FUSING?
Didn't post that - but here it is :



Giant brass object at the far side.

12v wire is also fused where it goes into the Flux Caps (silver boxes - they step up my 12v system to charge my 16v batteries).



Main power from front to back is also fused :)

I'm not that crazy ;)

PS: The pictured setup did 153.4 dB with the 3000Ds wired at 1 ohm nominal (0.9 DCR) producing a combined total of 4960 watts after impedance rise @ 53 Hz.
 
1 - 20 of 32 Posts
Top