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Discussion Starter #1
I don't know much but I sure enjoy trying.

I've had this Silverado for a year now, when I got it I immediately installed components from my old van into it in a rush, and it was passable for a while.

The stereo consisted of a Dayton 408 for source, left the factory radio in, the Dayton fed a Skar mono, 4 channel and a PPI Ion 2 channel. The mono went to an IDQ12 stuffed in a half assed 1.85ft³ sealed box under the rear seat, the 4 channel went to the Scan 10f mid and Scan D2904 tweet in quickly whipped up glassed pillars that fired across the dash due to space constraints (the D2904 is bigger than the 10f lol) and the PPI Ion went to some SLS 6.5s in 3.5 liter sealed kick pods.

I've been wanting to try and get the mid and tweet more on axis like I had in the van cause it sounds better. The kick pods were easy and effective but I am really missing the leg room, and the sub box was just an ugly thing that was half MDF and half fiberglass (thanks to my impatience).

I've gotten hold of some Illusion C8-W woofers, a Sundown SD3-10 and a bigger Skar mono so it can run at a 4 ohm load and not tax the hell out of my stock charging system.

The fun has begun, I removed all my amps from the shoddy wood planks I attached to the rear wall, removed the sub "box" and took out the kick pods.
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Initially I began with the intention if keeping the IDQ12 and doing a more proper rack on the back wall, but it didn't turn out to my liking and the seats don't fold down allowing me access to the rear wall so I scrapped the idea
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So I moved onto the idea of a small box 10 or 12, would've like to the SI BM MkIV but I have a wife and she has a budget and I can only go so far lol. Came down to the Dayton HO 10 or an SD3 and the SD3 is a full inch shorter and has not vented hole in the back so I chose that one (no pics of it yet as I haven't gotten it yet).

I began the box/amp chest building. Came up with a chest that will house the 3 amps on 1 side and the SD3 10 on the other side with .61 ft³ space before the driver displacement. My tools are somewhat limited and my skills are not great but I am proud of how it came out.
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The inside of the box has been milkshaked, and has a good 5.5" of mounting depth thanks to the hole and plate, made simply with a some .75" MDF and double front baffle.
I'm just gonna rhino line it and paint it a close approximation of the carpet color since it's cheap and easy. Think I may attach hinges to the chest/rack so the top swings open and cut a hole in it/add some tin/screen type material the amps can breathe and be seen.

I began cutting door cards and door metal today to fit the Illusion C8s into the front door.
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Thankfully was able to cut the door card without losing any of the push in plastics so it still secures pretty snugly. Then the fun task of cutting the door frame.
 

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Discussion Starter #2
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Set the ring in where I wanted it and traced it onto the masking tape.
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The first door I went at with a grinder and it wasn't bad but it wasn't fun, and it was god awful ugly. Fun fact I learned today, I can cut door metal with a jigsaw ??.
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The surface isn't even so I used some buttons rope I had to seal the setting that wasn't flat.
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Only had 2.5" screws on hand so that's what I used. Counter sunk them in and tightened them up. The baffles are 2 .75" mdf rings glued together with a rear 45° chamfer that I painted black to hopefully keep somewhat dry, it's Arizona and dry as a bone 300 days a year so I'm not too concerned now, we shall see.
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Now I'm gonna try and figure out how to seal up the big holes in the door, I'd like to use a piece of .25" wood but the door card has a protrusion on the back so flat won't work. Thinking maybe I could make a fiberglass mold of the protective foam barrier and work with that.
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That large hump in the middle is where the plastic support on the back of the door card pushes into the hole. Have some MLV in the shed waiting to be used and just ordered some Raamat BXT2 for some resonance control. Have to say that Raamat has some great customer service, hopefully the product is as good as the service was.

That's kinda where I'm at so far, plenty more to do. Don't know if I want to hack the current pillars I have now and try to work with them or find some at a junkyard/ebay for like 100 bucks. Or just leave them as is for now until the wife loosens my purse strings some. Gonna rerun all the speaker wires, find a spot up front to mount the DSP hopefully and go from there. Then figure out how to make the doors pretty as well, any input on that would be of great value.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Here is a pic of the current a pillars, think they're usable or just start fresh?
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Have thought about just keeping them as is until I can move on to a GB10/GB25 combo, possibly keeping the 10F and getting a smaller tweeter so I have more flexibility.

But I also would like to add a MiniDSP 6x8 or larger so I could possibly work with adding a woofer in the center console where the Bose sub is sitting currently, and a screen in the dash with android auto like the Alpine ILX-W650.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
BXT2 from Raamat arrived today, went to the wrong house but I found it.
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Pretty easy to work with and incredibly sticky, adheres very well.
I'd recommend the Raamat to anyone looking for damper based on the customer service alone, Rick is a very guy and easily accessible, shipped extremely quickly and 140 for 37.5 sq ft is a pretty good price.
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Made some fiberglass mold of the of the doors protective liner to cover the big hole
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But it wasn't working very well for me so I simply chopped the bulged plastic on the door card.
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Should be able to get a .25" mdf board in there to cover the hole now, had some junk .5" plywood laying around that I tried and it was just a tad too big.
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Back to work
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Well the 1/4" mdf fit just fine. Doors got really heavy and I know the knock test don't mean much but there's a definite difference between the front and rear now.
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Covered every hole I could see with a couple layers of Raamat and butyl rope stuffed into the smaller spots
 

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Great progress. I'd leave the A- pillars as is unless you really wanted to change them, everything I've read about the Scan 10F says it's an excellent mid, no need to swap for the Audiofrog's unless you dying to spend a few hundred dollars.

Me, I'd leave those pillars and use money on a new head unit.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
They are pretty good, I liked them more on axis for sure though. But gotta go with the needs first. I'd rather try a smaller tweeter more on axis before just shelving them.

Thank you for your feedback
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Tackled a door today. Just did what I know how to do, seems to be okay, but time will tell if it will last. Sanded, scored the back of the panel, hot glued in the resin coated ring and flooded it from the back with rondo.
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I then used a razor to remove the glue from the front, lightly sanded and scored it, finger smeared the joint with a 2 part plastic epoxy, let that set up and then painted it with some more rondo. Sanded that down a bit and finger smeared it with dolphin glaze, sanded a little more. Happy with how it came looks. The speaker grill needs to be pressed in from the back and is pretty tight.
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Gonna prime it, hit it with some truck bed liner are a distance to hopefully get some texture, then paint over that. Gonna paint the grill the same color as the door.

Removed the center console from the truck, dug out my old cda 9835 and ran some power wires to the console area. Gonna mount the 9835 and the DSP 408 in there and use the 9835 until I upgrade the factory location with a screen.

SD3 10 arrived today, covered with smashed packing peanuts. Need to sand the hole in my sub box a smidge as the wide basket makes it a tough fit.
Think I'll send my Leviathan to JeffP so he can get it back up to snuff and I can use that for the fronts instead of the Skar and Ion.
 

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I think the door openings look killer. I’m very interested in how well you’ll be able to match texture. I’d love to change the opening on my door panel and utilize my aftermarket grill instead of the factory grill but the texture is what freezes me in my tracks. I just don’t have any experience with plastic texture. Wish there was a “can o texture” you could buy for plastic like there is with drywall...
 

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Discussion Starter #10
I think the door openings look killer. I’m very interested in how well you’ll be able to match texture. I’d love to change the opening on my door panel and utilize my aftermarket grill instead of the factory grill but the texture is what freezes me in my tracks. I just don’t have any experience with plastic texture. Wish there was a “can o texture” you could buy for plastic like there is with drywall...
From my understanding, nothing will be a perfect match unless you wrap it in vinyl and heat it and grain it, but that's well beyond my scope. I'm gonna experiment with the sem texture coat and see if I can get it reasonable and than paint over that.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Okay well I wasn't a fan of the sound I was getting from my doors, and I kept thinking about how much I loved my sealed door panel pods in my old van.

So I queued up the madness machine and started going.

Constructed some .65 ft³ boxes out of 1/2" mdf, put some rivnuts into my door metal and attached them. Then I chopped my door panels so I could keep the top which is where the handle and controls are anyways.

I'll figure out how to integrate and make it look purdy after a bit, watched a pssound video where he put 8s in his doors and I think I can accomplish something close to the same.
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I also pulled out my cross firing a pillars and will be rebuilding, there too. Picked up a set of SI M25 tweets, think I'll put those in the sails and keep the 10f in the pillar and get that stuff a lot more on axis than firing across the dash at each other.
 
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