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Discussion Starter #1
I'm stuck with 5.25" comps in the front doors and they don't seem to like playing much lower than 90-100hrz. Subwoofer is a eD13av.2 which isn't great at midbass 60-100hrz, I can fit a pair of 6x9 mid sub like the CDTs in the back deck. So my plan is to have the fronts at 120hrz, the 6x9s cover the 60-120hrz range and the subwoofer set to 60 and lower with a subsonic set at 25hz. I had been debating on getting something else besides the 13av.2 but the deep extension is awesome and its so clean sounding that I hate to get rid of it.

So question is, what 4 channel amp could I get that I could set those 6x9s for such a narrow freq range? Was looking at the Sundown SAX-100.4D amp from Woofersect. Would that work or is there anything alittle cheaper? Sundown $385.
 

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13av.2 is made for HT and not music in mind. There is other GREAT option sub wise for your car as well.

get some better quality 5.5 and or try to fit some 6.5. 6x9 in rear deck, ignore them, you want your stage infront of you, not behind.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Your probably right that the 13av.2 is the problem.

I had been thinking of either: Pair of either HiVi SP10s, pair of CSS SDX 10s, or TC sounds Epics 10 or 12s. Amp is a Soundstream PCX1500d.

I can't fit anything larger than 5.25" comps, without serious modification to the doors so will stick with 5.25.
 

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If you can't increase size, then make sure your install is the best it can be. You sound treated/closed all the holes in your door right?
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Doors have been treated and sealed, door panels have been lined too with foam noise barrier type stuff Elemental Designs tek light foam liner.

I will probably get the SDX 10s, all my hometheater speakers are XBL2 woofers and those sound fantastic, so a pair of SDX 10s in sealed box .8cuf each with about 1100watts at 2ohms sound much better than the 13av.2. Speakers are CDT CL51s, maybe if I get a better subwoofers that handle midbass better those will sound alittle better.
 

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Then your solution is a sub that can play more into the midbass area.
 

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You guys don't like midbass arrays? The 6x9 would work fine like that but if the fronts make no MB at all and you crank those...it can sound like its from the rear. If the fronts make some and you get the level right you will never know you have midbass in the rear. It will work best if you run the fronts low as you can but around 80Hz becomes omnidirectional and it does not matter below that. The rear MB will add more MB to the system.

Is likely I would just pick up an old 3way xover and use any amp. IIRC a coustic xover is not bad and cheaper that will do it. Double check they will run range you want, is likely you can run them higher and they would work fine up closer to midrange especially if they are a MB driver that is weak in the midrange to start with.

You can look up a thread by Patrick Bateman about midbass arrays, it talks about using MB in the rear and sides, etc. I've done it many times with success.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
I was thinking I might be able to get away with crossing the fronts at 100 and the 6x9s crossed at 60-100 which even 100hrz can sometimes be nondirectional.

Never though about using an old 3way xover, but my amp for the fronts comps is a old Profile California AP600 2channel amp, so upgrading to a 4 channel amp isn't a problem

I would really hate to get rid of the 13av.2 just cause it sounds great -midbass, and never sounds distorted or strain no matter what I do to it. I hate to purchase speakers just to test them out, so is there any 5.25" that perform welll down to 60-70hrz? That would blend better with the 13av.2.
 

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I don't know of any 5.25 other than good comps, but 5.25 is just small and its a hard road to get low with them. I don't even think you need a special 6x9 I bet just a good 6x9 that makes some bass would work fine. It has a lot more cone area than 5.25 so it will make a lot more bass. I've also run 6x9 rear with an old EQ on them, and just turn the treble bands all the way down....easy cheater way to xover them more or less and on top of that you can tune them any way you want.

The key is the fronts need to be louder to you at 100Hz and above. Below that or lower output 100+ the rears will not bother the stage. I say to you because usually the fronts are close to you and that makes them louder, so even at the same power input the fronts are typically louder....but not always, and you can get reflections/etc from the rears and they show at certain times if you don't get rid of that or turn them down more. The thing is you want a speaker or EQ that keeps them loud at 80 and less, but you have to cut them above 80-100 if needed. For example if they are too loud at 120hz and mess up the stage and you turn them down, then you turned down 80hz and you don't really want that. Unless the speaker happens to peak at 80 and is louder there anyway due to cabin gain or whatever....or you make it that way with EQ or changes to the install, or change the drivers.
 
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