Car Stereo Forum banner

Amp on fire!

2231 Views 43 Replies 15 Participants Last post by  daloudin
Well.not fire but too hot to touch. please keep answers serious as this is really bothering me.
its a Skar RP.150.4ab amp.
in order to keep it alive ive put steel mesh on the bottom and added 2x140mm fans hooked to the fan header as it runs 24/7 and now ive added a 12” radiator fan to make sure it doesn’t go into protection.
ohms is between 2-4 on each channel. But its the AMOUNT of speakers that worry me.
2x- 8” full range
4x- 3.5” componant.
6x- tweeters

too many speakers being driven? I do add some bass around 220hrz
so whats next? Im gonna remove some speakers today if it doesn’t rain.
i really like the sound of the amp and speakers.
so if i need another amp, what do you suggest in the $200-$250 range?
i am considering the CT Sounds CT-150.4D Full-Range Class D 4 Channel Car Audio Amplifier, 1000 Watts RMS
1 - 5 of 44 Posts
How are the speakers wired up? Series or Parallel or a combination?

If you simply wired them up with all the negatives and positives connected to the amp then you're likely running at less than a 1/4 of an ohm.
  • Like
Reactions: 4
I can take advice,encouragement and help.
just not put downs and snide remarks.
im asking for help,wouldn’t it be better taken if it was advice instead of a put down.

when i first started i was using an Expert DSP and took it out so i could remember and refresh my old knowledge and know i be coming back to the DSP as everyone suggested.
ill try and get it in today and back the tweeters off.
Well then answer the question.

How are they connected?

I could care less if you want to run 24 tweeters - I'll even explain to you how to hook them up so you have the correct load on your amp.

But we have to start somewhere so in order to help you I need to know what make and model all your drivers are and how do you currently have them connected?

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk
  • Like
Reactions: 2
I'm going to try and take this one area of the car (or one section of the amp) at a time to keep it from getting confused.

2-Skar t1t tweeters,skar 3.5” and 6x9“ on fronts side to side
When you say t1t tweeters are you talking about the ones like these: Skar TX-T
Skar 3.5" would be their coaxial if I'm correct: Skar TX35
Then the 6x9: Skar TX69

Correct me if I'm wrong on any of those.
So if you have those 3 units wired in parallel then from 1.6kHz and up you have 3 x 4 ohm drivers in parallel = 1.3 ohms but that's all in the tweeters and they use so little power that it wouldn't be a huge problem. Still getting rid of one set of tweeters or the 3.5" set should make this front channel setup doable in parallel.

top of the box is 2x DS18 sealed back 8” full range,Skar 3.5” mid and DS18 higher quality tweeters. This is connected to the rear deck parallel.
back window is a 2“ tweeter and a 6x9”
rear channel + box is 10 speakers.
This one you lost me - we don't really need to worry about the subs as they have their own amps.
DS18 sealed back 8 + Skar 3.5 + DS18 HQ Tweeters + 2" Back window Tweeter + 6x9 are all on the rear channel of the amplifier?
The DS18 Sealed Back 8" are only available in 8 ohm IIRC so that's good from 250Hz - 10kHz
The same Skar 3.5 as above is 4 ohms from 145Hz - 20kHz
The DS18 HQ Tweeter I'm going to assume is one of their 3" Bullet Tweeters at 4 ohms from 2kHz - 20kHz
Same for the 2" back window tweeter = 4 ohms from 2kHz - 20kHz
And the Same Skar 6x9 from above = 4 ohms from 40Hz - 25kHz

If all that is correct then the worst area is from 2kHz - 10kHz where all this is in parallel so you would have 0.88 ohms
Then from 250Hz - 2kHz where you have around 1.6 ohms
Then from 145Hz - 250Hz where you are at 2 ohms
and then 40-145Hz is at 4 ohms
Getting rid of the 3.5 and the 2" tweeter would help tremendously. Ideally you would have the 8" sealed back and the HQ Tweeter on the rear channel and then put the 6x9s on their own amp. So maybe get rid of 2 sets of the little tweeters and the 2 sets of 3.5s and see then see if your thermals are more manageable - if it still gets hot then disconnect the 6x9s and try again.

The DSP is just going to be a glorified EQ in your situation, Time Alignment might help a little but a DSP is really meant to have one channel for each driver in your system. Between using a combination of coax and separates and the sheer number of speakers you have the advantages of DSP are going to get lost in the mix. Best to get it ironed out as much as you can without the DSP 1st and then if you still need more adjustment consider the DSP.

When you measure with the multimeter are you measuring with all the speakers connected or each speaker individually?

Are you using any kind of xover other than what came with each driver? Or do all the drivers connected to each channel receive a full range signal?
See less See more
  • Like
Reactions: 5
I took the DSP out cuzz it sucks hoovers…
my old setup was fine in the electronics to run it all.
im getting a new amp at the 1st when i get paid.
i think i also blew one of the DS18’s 8” woofer’s. It adds alot of sound along with the 3.5” together.not sure if they will cover that but ill be looking into it tonight anyhow i need an amp,$200ish 4 channel
Make sure you get one that's 1 Ohm stable on all 4 channels...
The one you've linked doesn't appear to be one of the ones they advertise as 1 ohm stable. Not familiar with the brand, just going by the packaging. Their 440x4 and 800x4 do claim 1 ohm stable, but that's not a claim I'd personally be eager to test on an amplifier in that price range.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
You are correct the 1200x4 is only 2 ohm stable - my bad.
1 - 5 of 44 Posts
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.