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Discussion Starter #1
I have the receiver and speakers picked out, now I just need to know what a good amp would be to power them. The vehicle is a 2009 Sonata GLS.


Receiver: Sony XAV-AX5000

Front Doors: Polk Audio DB 6502

Rear Doors: Polk Audio DB 652

Wasn't sure if I only need a 4 channel amp or 5 channel.

I appreciate any and all help I can get!
 

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There are so any good choices. Can you help with a budget and whether you'd like to add a sub in the future?
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Are u running active? Adding a DSP? Subwoofer?


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Forgive my ignorance but I don't know what running active refers to. :confused:

Do you mean active vs passive speakers?

DSP most likely, subwoofer no.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
There are so any good choices. Can you help with a budget and whether you'd like to add a sub in the future?
No plans to add a sub. Budget is around $500.00 for the amp. Maybe a little more if the difference in quality is worth it.
 

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Forgive my ignorance but I don't know what running active refers to. :confused:



Do you mean active vs passive speakers?



DSP most likely, subwoofer no.

“Active” means every speaker will have its own channel, so u can tune each speaker separately thru the DSP.

So in ur situation it would mean 4 channels for the component set (2 tweeters and 2 midbass....not using the included crossovers).....and 2 channels for the rear speakers.

U have 2 options then. U could run a 6 channel amplifier.

Or run a 5 channel amplifier and have the rear speakers playing Mono in the DSP off of 1 channel.

These amps would be my suggestion for ur price range:

http://store.12velectronics.com/zapco-st-6x-sq-6-ch-class-a-b-amplifier/

https://creativeaudio.net/xd600-6-kb/


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Discussion Starter #8
“Active” means every speaker will have its own channel, so u can tune each speaker separately thru the DSP.

So in ur situation it would mean 4 channels for the component set (2 tweeters and 2 midbass....not using the included crossovers).....and 2 channels for the rear speakers.

U have 2 options then. U could run a 6 channel amplifier.

Or run a 5 channel amplifier and have the rear speakers playing Mono in the DSP off of 1 channel.
I've never used DSP equipment before, is the learning curve pretty steep? I don't want to get in over my head.

I see what you mean by active. Yeah each speaker would be on it's own channel. Do I not want to use the crossovers if I'm using DSP?
 

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Do I not want to use the crossovers if I'm using DSP?
Most people run the mid-bass and tweeter on separate channels, but you can use passive crossovers if you need to. To have front tweets and mid-bass + rear fill, you'd need six channels.

For a $500 budget, I was going to suggest a Zapco Z-150.4. This vendor's been blowing them out on Amazon and has some listed at $424 (a few hundred less than normal). I already have the Z-150.6 and just picked up a Z-1KD from them.

If you want to run active in the future, the same vendor has the Z-150.2 up, too. That would give you six channels.

You'd have six channels of premium amplification. I'm not affiliated, just stoked on the pricing.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Most people run the mid-bass and tweeter on separate channels, but you can use passive crossovers if you need to. To have front tweets and mid-bass + rear fill, you'd need six channels.
I'd like to run each speaker on its own channel.

If I want to run active I should get both then? Run the tweeters off the 2 channel and the rest off the 4 channel?

What about the 6 channel Zapco amp that MrGreen83 posted?

Zapco ST-6X SQ

Is a component setup meant to take advantage of the passive crossover? If so would it be better to buy 4 of the non component 6 1/2's and then two stand alone tweeters?
 

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I'd like to run each speaker on its own channel.



If I want to run active I should get both then? Run the tweeters off the 2 channel and the rest off the 4 channel?



What about the 6 channel Zapco amp that MrGreen83 posted?



Zapco ST-6X SQ



Is a component setup meant to take advantage of the passive crossover? If so would it be better to buy 4 of the non component 6 1/2's and then two stand alone tweeters?


The Z-series is higher end than the ST series, but the ST-6X is still a great amp and within your budget. Another option is waiting for an Arc 1200.6 to come up in the classifieds.

If you want a channel for each driver, you’ll need 6 channels. With the amps I linked to, that’s the 4-channel and 2-channel.


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Discussion Starter #12
The Z-series is higher end than the ST series, but the ST-6X is still a great amp and within your budget. Another option is waiting for an Arc 1200.6 to come up in the classifieds.

If you want a channel for each driver, you’ll need 6 channels. With the amps I linked to, that’s the 4-channel and 2-channel.


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I just ordered both the 4 and 2 channel Z series amps. Should I stick with component speakers for the front, as compared to coaxial and a separate tweeter?
 

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I just ordered both the 4 and 2 channel Z series amps. Should I stick with component speakers for the front, as compared to coaxial and a separate tweeter?
Very cool! You'll have amps you'll never need to replace unless you just want to try something different.

You'll want to run 1/0 gauge power wire to the distribution blocks for power and ground, then 1/0 out of the block into each amp. I use these from Knu Konceptz. They're well made and you can't beat the price.

Stick with components up front. You do not want co-axial plus a tweeter. You'd have two tweeters in that setup. Do you already own the speakers you linked to, or are they just what you're considering at this point?
 

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You just bought some power hungry class A/B high end amplifiers and now you will need a DSP, more wiring, and surely want to upgrade those Polk speakers to match the potential within that equipment. Then you will need door treatment and a microphone to tune. You will also need to learn a lot or hire a tuner in your area who can help you. SkizeR does tuning over the phone and remotely with your PC for a fee.

Welcome to the very deep rabbit hole of car audio where no amount of money can ever fill that hole. At least you’re in good hands at DYMA.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Very cool! You'll have amps you'll never need to replace unless you just want to try something different.

You'll want to run 1/0 gauge power wire to the distribution blocks for power and ground, then 1/0 out of the block into each amp. I use these from Knu Konceptz. They're well made and you can't beat the price.

Stick with components up front. You do not want co-axial plus a tweeter. You'd have two tweeters in that setup. Do you already own the speakers you linked to, or are they just what you're considering at this point?
Those are just the ones I was considering at the time. What would you suggest?
 

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Discussion Starter #16
You just bought some power hungry class A/B high end amplifiers and now you will need a DSP, more wiring, and surely want to upgrade those Polk speakers to match the potential within that equipment. Then you will need door treatment and a microphone to tune. You will also need to learn a lot or hire a tuner in your area who can help you. SkizeR does tuning over the phone and remotely with your PC for a fee.

Welcome to the very deep rabbit hole of car audio where no amount of money can ever fill that hole. At least you’re in good hands at DYMA.
What DSP would you recommend I look at?
 

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What DSP would you recommend I look at?
I have the JL Audio twk88 and love it and the Dayton Audio 408 DSP which is very good for someone who is on a budget but not as user friendly as the JL twk88. The JL Twk88 is a very capable DSP that will get you fantastic results. The Dayton can match those results with a little more fussing but in the end it will. It also seems to have some software bugs and some possible noise issues yet mine is quiet.

Many people here also recommend the Helix but that DSP may be more than you actually need especially if you are going to learn and do the tuning yourself. The Helix is also the most expensive. I have no experience with the Helix other than messing with the software a little so I will let others speak for that.

My recommendation will go to the JL Twk88 for being very user friendly with a well thought out software interface and good tech support. I'd only recommend the Dayton if you just cant afford a better DSP but still want one and want good sonic results and are willing to work a little harder getting there. When I swapped my Dayton with my JL I couldn't tell a difference in sound.
 

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As far as speakers, I'd urge you to consider Audiofrog's GS line for a more budget friendly option (they're not budget drivers, just not as expensive as the GB's). Excellent drivers.

And for DSP's, I'm a Helix fanboy. I think it's just frankly more powerful than most others and won't fail on you. There's a used Helix DSP Mini in the classifieds right now for a good price, but you wouldn't have enough output options to process a sub if you ever decide to add one.

My first DSP was a miniDSP 6x8. When I say the Helix is more powerful, what I mean is that it's able to shape the EQ significantly more.

If you start with a DSP, you won't need to purchase passive crossovers. The DSP will be more, but not having to purchase the crossovers mitigates that somewhat.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Awesome information guys, I really appreciate all the help you've given!

Now I need to do some more research.

Cheers!
 

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Helix DSP has a ton of support from the forum here which is the main reason why I would grab it. If you have any problems with it, there will be answers which I think will be tremendously helpful with the learning curve associated with tuning.
 
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