I am wondering if it is reasonable to consider these specs at face value, or do they change significantly during actual operating conditions?
Amplifier Efficiency specs:
86% @ 4-Ohm
85% @ 2-Ohm
68% @ 1-Ohm
Currently, I am running at a 1-ohm load and think I have considerable more than enough RMS watts for the speakers I'm driving (2 @ 500RMS).
I look at this and think, "Geez, if I went to dual 2 ohm VC subs instead of dual 4 ohm, I could run a 2-ohm overall load, have enough power, and reduce current draw at max RMS output by about 35 A".
But - is that too simplistic?
I mean, doesn't the resistance seen at the speaker terminals in operation vary with the frequency of the signal? If so, would that mean the efficiency specs listed above are more of a "worst case" - and that my current savings would be way, way less in reality?
Also, would the efficiency numbers likely change from full output to partial output (assuming for the better)?
Oh, and in case anyone really wants to know (but I don't think it matters really for this question), my setup is:
Car: 2001 Subaru Impreza RS
HU: Alpine iDA-x305 + H100 Imprint
FS: Alpine SPR-17S 6 & 1/2" components
RS: Alpine SPR-17C 6 & 1/2" coaxials (considering removing or switching to a "rear fill" signal)
4ch amp: Alpine PDX-4.150
Subs: 2 x Alpine SWR-1242D 12" dual 4ohm VC (considering switching to something else)
mono amp: Rockford Fosgate T1500-1bd
140A alternator, all wiring upgraded.
(I swear, I'm not an Alpine fanboi - just turned out that way
)
Amplifier Efficiency specs:
86% @ 4-Ohm
85% @ 2-Ohm
68% @ 1-Ohm
Currently, I am running at a 1-ohm load and think I have considerable more than enough RMS watts for the speakers I'm driving (2 @ 500RMS).
I look at this and think, "Geez, if I went to dual 2 ohm VC subs instead of dual 4 ohm, I could run a 2-ohm overall load, have enough power, and reduce current draw at max RMS output by about 35 A".
But - is that too simplistic?
I mean, doesn't the resistance seen at the speaker terminals in operation vary with the frequency of the signal? If so, would that mean the efficiency specs listed above are more of a "worst case" - and that my current savings would be way, way less in reality?
Also, would the efficiency numbers likely change from full output to partial output (assuming for the better)?
Oh, and in case anyone really wants to know (but I don't think it matters really for this question), my setup is:
Car: 2001 Subaru Impreza RS
HU: Alpine iDA-x305 + H100 Imprint
FS: Alpine SPR-17S 6 & 1/2" components
RS: Alpine SPR-17C 6 & 1/2" coaxials (considering removing or switching to a "rear fill" signal)
4ch amp: Alpine PDX-4.150
Subs: 2 x Alpine SWR-1242D 12" dual 4ohm VC (considering switching to something else)
mono amp: Rockford Fosgate T1500-1bd
140A alternator, all wiring upgraded.
(I swear, I'm not an Alpine fanboi - just turned out that way