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Lumberman : wow , what a cool setup.

I'm intrested in the entire build, being a horn person I'll definitely be watching this.


I like your iPhone setup. Looks like you got a good way to get digital signal.


You seem pretty up to par on this stuff. Would you know how someone could get an optical signal from a iPhone and how to get it to have a volume control.

Or , just a way to get a volume control on a optical toslink wire?

Is that setup you have take iPhone to hdmi than to digital coax or optical? If so I'm intrested in how I can get the same setup
 

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Discussion Starter #44
oabeieo,

At the moment I'm pulling a digital coax feed from the phone, with the gear that arrived in the last few weeks, and what I have on preorder, I'll be switching to optical.

At the moment I'm using a ProClip phone mount screwed right to the dash, slightly tacky, but perfect for this era of vehicle in modern times. I have a Lightning Extension Cable going to an Apple Lightning to HDMI adapter. The phone is being charged from this adapter by a normal Apple Lightning USB cable. The HDMI cable is going to a Kanex Audio De-Embeder with an RCA cable running to a PPI DEQ.8. The downside of this setup is that volume control is left up to the DEQ.8, and the rotary knob is digital, so the volume changes in steps. The Apple HDMI adaptor completely disables volume control on the phone.

With my new gear, SwitchCraft ports and whatnot, it'll change a bit. I also have a JL Twk D8 on pre-order from Crutchfield. With the Twk I can program the remote knob for my own use, I'll use it as a bass knob. I plan to also swap amps, from my mix of stuff to JL HD amps. These amps will allow me to use the RLC setup to control volume, just like ErinH's setup. This will get me back to a true analog volume control, with the added benefit of zero hiss at low volume, a common problem with crazy efficient drivers.

Another problem with going digital from the phone to the processor is getting a comparable signal from REW/TDA/APL Workshop into the processor.

So, with the new setup the signal path will look like this:

Iphone ---> Kanex HDMI Audio De-embedder ---> Optical Switcher
MacBook Pro ---> Optical Switcher

Optical Switcher ---> APL-1 ---> JL Twk D8 ---> Amps

At the moment I'm planning on an HD 600/4 for the horns and mids, HD 600/4 bridged to the midbass and an HD 1200/1 per sub.

The optical switcher, HDMI de-embedder, iPhone power, two USB ports, Holley EFI and sound processor will all be powered/connected by a StarTech USB hub with a single USB type B port in the dash.

Given your location and employer, I suspect you are working at one of the most profitable stores in the company. My first installing job was at the North Seattle store, we did more alarms than any other store in the company. I once tried to kick Dan Bretler out of the shop, not knowing what he looked like. I was also part of the union vote way back then, I was the only eligible employee who didn't vote, I was busy buying super rare Mustang that day. If you ever run across someone who knows what Northwest Autosound was, then you might want to listen to their stories :)
 

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Discussion Starter #45
You seem pretty up to par on this stuff. Would you know how someone could get an optical signal from a iPhone and how to get it to have a volume control.

Or, just a way to get a volume control on a optical toslink wire?
The volume control over digital isn't easy, however, I do believe it's possible with an iPure. The catch with the iPure is that you are limited to slower charging, you will lose charge with the screen on. Also, you'll need a Lightning to 30-pin adaptor. But you do get a physical remote to use with it.

I think I have the iPure parts somewhere around here that I could send you. I leave in the morning for 15 days, and I could send it to you when I get home.
 

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oabeieo,

At the moment I'm pulling a digital coax feed from the phone, with the gear that arrived in the last few weeks, and what I have on preorder, I'll be switching to optical.

At the moment I'm using a ProClip phone mount screwed right to the dash, slightly tacky, but perfect for this era of vehicle in modern times. I have a Lightning Extension Cable going to an Apple Lightning to HDMI adapter. The phone is being charged from this adapter by a normal Apple Lightning USB cable. The HDMI cable is going to a Kanex Audio De-Embeder with an RCA cable running to a PPI DEQ.8. The downside of this setup is that volume control is left up to the DEQ.8, and the rotary knob is digital, so the volume changes in steps. The Apple HDMI adaptor completely disables volume control on the phone.

With my new gear, SwitchCraft ports and whatnot, it'll change a bit. I also have a JL Twk D8 on pre-order from Crutchfield. With the Twk I can program the remote knob for my own use, I'll use it as a bass knob. I plan to also swap amps, from my mix of stuff to JL HD amps. These amps will allow me to use the RLC setup to control volume, just like ErinH's setup. This will get me back to a true analog volume control, with the added benefit of zero hiss at low volume, a common problem with crazy efficient drivers.

Another problem with going digital from the phone to the processor is getting a comparable signal from REW/TDA/APL Workshop into the processor.

So, with the new setup the signal path will look like this:

Iphone ---> Kanex HDMI Audio De-embedder ---> Optical Switcher
MacBook Pro ---> Optical Switcher

Optical Switcher ---> APL-1 ---> JL Twk D8 ---> Amps

At the moment I'm planning on an HD 600/4 for the horns and mids, HD 600/4 bridged to the midbass and an HD 1200/1 per sub.

The optical switcher, HDMI de-embedder, iPhone power, two USB ports, Holley EFI and sound processor will all be powered/connected by a StarTech USB hub with a single USB type B port in the dash.

Given your location and employer, I suspect you are working at one of the most profitable stores in the company. My first installing job was at the North Seattle store, we did more alarms than any other store in the company. I once tried to kick Dan Bretler out of the shop, not knowing what he looked like. I was also part of the union vote way back then, I was the only eligible employee who didn't vote, I was busy buying super rare Mustang that day. If you ever run across someone who knows what Northwest Autosound was, then you might want to listen to their stories :)
Man that sounds like a rock solid setup. The HD amps are good. I am running that exact setup , although, I took out one of the 600/4s in place of a focal 4ch class ab with same power as 600/4 for horns and midrange. And I did notice a sq improvement right away. And it wasn't a small improvement. I noticed switching to the class ab focal amps there was a lot more depth and the sound was more layered and wide and open sounding. I took the focal amp on midbass and couldn't tell I did anything, but the HD amps are the best class d out there . After about a year of listening to the HD amps you'll want to try something different. I would suggest the focal amps. There pretty bad ass! So are brax amps. I was going to get two more focal amps but I just discovered that I don't have the room for them so I'm going to keep the two JL audio and the one focal for now .

I'll definitely watch how you do yours with the optical because I definitely might consider copycatting . I have 4 minidsp HD dsp's that have optical in. I have a p99 right now and want the alpine x008 because it has a optical out but volume is disabled on the optical output . The minidsp I can train a infrared remote but the problem is if I turn the volume up and down through an infrared remote both DSPs may not turn up at the same time for turn down at the same time which could be cumbersome. I would really like to figure out a way to use the optical out and go into some sort of device that will get me a volume control and then pass the optical out with a volume . I've read that Dolby Dts does not let volume go over optical but regular PCM and all that other stuff will if I'm using a phone with Spotify I seriously doubt I'll ever have a Dolby issue . I just have no idea where I should start but those parts you have look sort of interesting

Yeah DR is a busy store , were num 3 in company in power ranker. It's fun, but stressful.

That's funny about Dan B. I wonder if he ever called you on your bday after that. Lol. I've been w the company 6yrs and a IM 2years. I enjoy it , it's nice when we hit all our goals. I will ask, I have a tech that transfer from a Washington store, Brandon, I bet he'll know what your talking about. He's been CT for attract 15-20yrs.
 

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The volume control over digital isn't easy, however, I do believe it's possible with an iPure. The catch with the iPure is that you are limited to slower charging, you will lose charge with the screen on. Also, you'll need a Lightning to 30-pin adaptor. But you do get a physical remote to use with it.

I think I have the iPure parts somewhere around here that I could send you. I leave in the morning for 15 days, and I could send it to you when I get home.
I didn't see this post dood that would be awesome but I'm using lightning off of an iPhone 6 will it work for that... That's super cool of you.
 

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Discussion Starter #48
Man that sounds like a rock solid setup. The HD amps are good. I am running that exact setup , although, I took out one of the 600/4s in place of a focal 4ch class ab with same power as 600/4 for horns and midrange. And I did notice a sq improvement right away. And it wasn't a small improvement. I noticed switching to the class ab focal amps there was a lot more depth and the sound was more layered and wide and open sounding. I took the focal amp on midbass and couldn't tell I did anything, but the HD amps are the best class d out there . After about a year of listening to the HD amps you'll want to try something different. I would suggest the focal amps. There pretty bad ass! So are brax amps. I was going to get two more focal amps but I just discovered that I don't have the room for them so I'm going to keep the two JL audio and the one focal for now .

I'll definitely watch how you do yours with the optical because I definitely might consider copycatting . I have 4 minidsp HD dsp's that have optical in. I have a p99 right now and want the alpine x008 because it has a optical out but volume is disabled on the optical output . The minidsp I can train a infrared remote but the problem is if I turn the volume up and down through an infrared remote both DSPs may not turn up at the same time for turn down at the same time which could be cumbersome. I would really like to figure out a way to use the optical out and go into some sort of device that will get me a volume control and then pass the optical out with a volume . I've read that Dolby Dts does not let volume go over optical but regular PCM and all that other stuff will if I'm using a phone with Spotify I seriously doubt I'll ever have a Dolby issue . I just have no idea where I should start but those parts you have look sort of interesting
I already have the Lightning to HDMI adaptor and HMDI Audio De-Embedder working, and it works great. The catch with the Lightning to HDMI adaptor is that it disables volume control on the iOS device.

As you know, volume control has been an issue with digital audio in the car for a long time. Ideally you want the control the volume at the end of the signal chain, and the JL HD and XDv2 amps have the solution built in by letting you use the remote knob on all channels and even link the knob to multiple amps. And it's analog!

I have a remote for my PPI DEQ.8, but I don't really like the stepped rotary knob it uses for the volume control.

Yeah DR is a busy store , were num 3 in company in power ranker. It's fun, but stressful.

That's funny about Dan B. I wonder if he ever called you on your bday after that. Lol. I've been w the company 6yrs and a IM 2years. I enjoy it , it's nice when we hit all our goals. I will ask, I have a tech that transfer from a Washington store, Brandon, I bet he'll know what your talking about. He's been CT for attract 15-20yrs.
If Brandon was at a store that participated in the union vote, then ask him about the meetings at SeaTac.

I didn't see this post dood that would be awesome but I'm using lightning off of an iPhone 6 will it work for that... That's super cool of you.
It'll work with a Lightning to 30-pin adaptor, at least is did on iOS 8, I don't know about iOS 9. I dissected it some time ago, so it's just the board and the 12v to 5v DC power supply. I'm not sure of I still have the wall wart for it, but I know I still have the remote. Shoot me a PM with your mailing address.
 

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Regarding the volume control if playing through the optical output - I have mentioned once the easiest (and cheapest) way to do it, if you own APL1. Mine came with the the switch for 16 presets. I use some of them (preliminary programmed with the Workshop) to control volume from the CD-changer connected to the APL with toslink cable. Practically 6-8 presets (-24dB til -6dB) should be enough. Yes, we have steps in this solution, but no more parts between the optical source and DSP.
 

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Discussion Starter #55
Well, the aluminum is to thick to bend how I need without damaging it. So now I'm working on another plan for the dash. Sometime you just gotta dive in and do the crazy thing you've always wanted to do... :)

I leave in the morning for another tournament, I'll be gone for 16 days. After that I'll be home for 3-4 weeks so i should be able to get quite a bit of work done. Though I'll be on-call, so hopefully no last minute shows pop up.
 

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Northwest Autosound was, then you might want to listen to their stories :)
Just saw this!

Oh yeah, some stories for sure! I know a few of the old guard.
I still work with a guy that was there, although in an accounting capacity.
Travel safe!
 

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Discussion Starter #57
Did you know a guy with the last name of Nuber? I think his first name was Dan. He was an installer when Northwest Autosound closed, one of the guys who found a note on the door when arriving for work. When I knew him he lived across the street from me, and he was installing electronics for wheelchair vans. I heard a lot of stories about Dan Bretler from him.
 

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Rings a very vague bell. I knew Danny B a bit, along with a few of the other old crew. I was closest wth Walt Ottenad And still live about a mile as the crow flies from each other.

Lots of stories!!!
Raging 80's :)
 

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Discussion Starter #60
In a week I'll be on my home home and I'll have 3-4 weeks off, I've been home 12 days since February 26th. It's gonna be so nice to kick back and relax! My only work task will be to replace the wiring harness for the liftgate on the other truck that leapfrogs around the country with me. I did that to my trailer yesterday.

The very first task at hand will be to take the Bronco to a shop and have them find and fix the oil leak. Once it's home I have a pile of parts waiting to go in it:

- American Autowire wiring harness to replace the factory harness
- New plugs for all the factory lights
- Electric fan to replace the mechanical fan
- New radiator and A/C condenser
- New valve covers
- Oil catch can for the new breather setup
- New crank and water pump pulleys to fix my alternator belt wear problem
- APL-1
- JL TwK D8
- 10-port USB hub
- Optical switcher
- USB and Optical ports
- All the switches I posted about earlier

Depending on how much it costs to fix the oil leak, I should have the budget to buy all new Holley CAN-BUS gauges to replace the factory junk. If I manage to get all that done then I'll start building enclosures for the IDQ8's.

It's gonna be so nice to relax for so long!
 
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