DiyMobileAudio.com Car Stereo Forum banner

1 - 20 of 30 Posts

·
Registered
2005 Dodge Ram 1500 Quad Cab
Joined
·
26 Posts
Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Hi guys - as way of introduction, I wanted to start my build thread by sharing how I ended up mounting the front door speakers in my 2005 Ram 1500 Quad Cab.

The truck is new to me, and as I still have my previous vehicle to drive, I'm taking the time to do a full audio install.

The mainstream method for mounting a round speaker in the front door factory 6x9 hole seemed to be the Scoche SA-69 plastic adapters.
That was my initial plan, but I never really was satisfied with that idea as the plastic didn't appear thick enough for my liking.
After considering 1/2" acrylic and MDF, I decided to try using metal instead.
1/16" thick metal backstrap, cut to length with a hacksaw, worked great.
I drilled two additional holes (4 & 10 o'clock position in pic) so that the speaker could be secured with all four screws into the door frame.

Anyway, nothing amazing but wanted to share in case anyone else was looking for an alternative to mounting round front door speakers.

IMG_1884m.JPG

IMG_1867m.JPG
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,348 Posts
Welcome
I drive a 2005 2500 QC powered with a Cummins

They are great trucks and you can achieve very good results using the oem locations

That said o can’t tell from the pics if you have already done so but you are also going to have to use some sort of panel behind the speaker to close up the gap between the 6x9 and the 6.5 driver.

It will also be good to close up the other openings in the door as that will prevent the speakers backwaves from interfering with the front speaker response which are the only ones you want to hear.

Just my .02 (so far 😁)
 

·
Registered
2005 Dodge Ram 1500 Quad Cab
Joined
·
26 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
Thanks for the welcome, seafish.
So that I'm understanding correctly, what method would you recommend to close up the other openings?
The inner door panel itself, once installed, would block some sound as it has sound-absorbing padding glued to the inner shell. I could add on to that?

For the speaker, I think I understand what you're saying. The gaps around the circular speaker in the oval hole would allow sound reflected immediately behind the speaker to interfere by being out of phase with the speaker's intended waves?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,348 Posts
Correct on the speaker but it also applies to the other holes and openings as they can still allow sound waves to get between the interior panels and the front of the speaker

In short, the better you seal and deaden the door the better your speaker response will be.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,348 Posts
You can use sheet metal with some CLD applied or simply use 1/4" thick ABS plastic panels, either cut to fit slightly larger the the opening enough to use sheet metal screws ro stance them to the doors. That said, you can also use butyl rubber "rope" to to adhere the door panel and the new panel together while still be removable later for access.
 

·
Registered
2005 Dodge Ram 1500 Quad Cab
Joined
·
26 Posts
Discussion Starter #6 (Edited)
ok, I can work on that. I have a few ideas to go along with yours.

For the build itself, here's what I have planned. Overriding goal is sound quality.
Some components are getting re-used from my other vehicle:
  • head unit: Clarion DRZ-9255 (8 channel)
  • Front area speakers: CDT Audio ES-643 3-way component set with passive crossover
    ---- includes dash tweeters, dash 3.5", and front door 6.5"
  • Rear Door: undecided but looking at Kicker QS Series 6.5" 2-way, or JL Audio C3-600 2-way.
    ---- both have the option of mounting the tweeter inside the speaker ("convertible" to coaxial)
  • Subwoofer: JL Audio Stealthbox (carpeted fiberglass with two 10" 10TW1-4)
  • Sub amp: Visonik V2000T that I've had forever
  • Main Amp:
I have too many amps, and none of them are what I really want to re-use for this install.

What I really want is a Zapco Z-150.6 AP, and I'm also looking at the Zapco HDSP-Z16 V AD-8A DSP with HD media player.
The ONLY reason I haven't pulled the trigger is that I am having trouble identifying an "authorized" retailer of Zapco products (would appreciate any help there).
And... the rumors that Zapco will release a "digital" input version (aka optical) of the AP-series amps also peaked my interest!

I have really liked the DRZ-9255 head unit over the years, for the most part. As is common, the small plastic gear on the rubber-coated shaft that pulls the disc in and out lost it's press fit. I tried gluing it back on with no long-term success. I ultimately replaced the entire CD mechanism with one from ebay for $36 + shipping. It wasn't specifically called out for the 9255 model but it worked perfectly.

100_2896m.JPG


JL Audio Stealthbox:

IMG_1754m.JPG

CDT Audio 3-way Component Set

es643m.jpg
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,348 Posts
NICE... I am also using a DRZ9255 as a head unit and DSP !!!!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,348 Posts
BTW a reputable member is selling that very ZAPCO DSP, in BNIB condition, right now in the classifieds for a substantial savings.

Might want to check it out--

 

·
Registered
2005 Dodge Ram 1500 Quad Cab
Joined
·
26 Posts
Discussion Starter #9 (Edited)
Not much work has been accomplished recently due to continuous rain, waiting on parts, and work.
But I have acquired a new amplifier, as well as sound vibration, deadening and blocking materials.

I do have a question on the door wiring harnesses. The speaker wires appear to be maybe 18 gauge? I've noticed a lot of folks drill through the harness connector housing in order to run their own larger speaker wire. Given the conservative sound volume levels that I tend to listen at, it's debatable whether or not this is needed.
But since it's not too much effort, I likely will.

My question is, has anyone been able to identify the door-side and body-side connector housing part# ?
At some time in the future, I do see myself selling the truck and would want to restore the speakers to stock function, and drilling into the connector isn't a reversible process.

I know the entire harness is available from Mopar or Dorman, but they are expensive.
But I'm not having any luck sourcing the connector housing alone. I've scoured every photo I could find on Mouser and Digikey.

645-506_1.jpg
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
1,091 Posts
Of the people I know that have drilled into the connector to run bigger wire, they drilled into the section of it that wasn't being used. Depending on the number of connections running into the door they may not use all of the wire ports. If they sell their vehicle the existing speaker wire is still in its unmolested place in the connector. Not sure how yours looks but you may be able to drill out some room for new wire without affecting what's already there. Just a thought.
 

·
Registered
2005 Dodge Ram 1500 Quad Cab
Joined
·
26 Posts
Discussion Starter #11 (Edited)
I''ve seen photos of what you are talking about, but my connector only has one free pin (upper left in photo). Maybe those who have done this don't have power windows and door locks? It really doesn't seem like enough space for two 14 or 16 gauge speaker wires

IMG_1934m.JPG

To your point, though, drilling through the unused pin area shouldn't impact me later in time, so I may see how much area I can safely remove and how close to the connector housing edge I can go. Thanks.
 

·
Registered
2005 Dodge Ram 1500 Quad Cab
Joined
·
26 Posts
Discussion Starter #12 (Edited)
Got some work done today on the vibration and sound deadening.
As a side comment, I find it very interesting to see the very selective locations and limited quantity of CLD/vibration dampening pads that Dodge used.
Automobile manufacturers have computer modeling, fancy measuring devices, road testing, etc. and this is what they ended up with.
I think they hit the "trouble spots" and maybe considered anything more of little value add.
IMG_1782m.jpg

IMG_1783m.jpg

On the entire back rear seat shelf, Dodge used only one small, very specifically shaped vibro dampening pad.
(Here I have started to install my own CLD tiles).

IMG_1936m.jpg

The most puzzling thing to me is that there are ZERO dampening pads in the outer or inner door skins.
Makes you wonder why, being that it's one of the main areas that DIY'ers hit!
 

·
Registered
2005 Dodge Ram 1500 Quad Cab
Joined
·
26 Posts
Discussion Starter #13 (Edited)
The materials I'll be using are:
  • Siless brand 80 mil Butyl CLD tiles
  • Siless brand 157 mil Closed Cell Foam Liner
  • TMS brand Mass Loaded Vinyl
On a past project, I used Dynamat CLD. I'm trying the Siless this time for cost reasons only, but honestly if I had some definitive proof that Dynamat was better, I wouldn't hesitate to use it again. Relying on advertising claims is basically pointless. I want data!

I think I have all the CLD tiles in place that I want to install. I'm not doing the 100% coverage thing.

GOPR0295m.jpg

GOPR0296m.jpg

GOPR0297m.jpg

Before buying the Siless closed cell foam pads, I had purchased a roll of Frost King self-adhesive foam pad duct insulation.
Entire roll is installed in photo below. I applied it to the driver and passenger floorboard area up under the gray firewall pad, and along the left half of the rear floorboard area (I ran out).
Again, don't know if it's better or worse than the Siless closed cell foam pad.

GOPR0300m.jpg
 

·
Registered
2005 Dodge Ram 1500 Quad Cab
Joined
·
26 Posts
Discussion Starter #14 (Edited)
I found myself constantly thumping around area inside the cab listening for resonance. The raised shelf chamber area below the window had an interesting hollow sound, so I decided to fill it with expanding foam from Lowes. I emptied two cans in there, thinking I needed to buy at least another one. However, after about 10 minutes, the foam started slowly expanding out of every available hole, lol. That continued for another hour.

Note: this stuff works great, but must use gloves and eye protection! The foam bonds with skin and is darn near impossible to remove. I can't imagine getting it into your eyes.

Here I have also installed the closed cell foam adhesive pads to the rear wall and seat shelf.
It was very difficult to lay it down in a straight line.

IMG_1940m.jpg

If you're looking for all the potential noise makers, these little flaps do make a noticeable noise when you vibrate the rear wall. They let air escape from the cabin when the doors are closed.
IMG_1939m.jpg
 

·
Registered
2005 Dodge Ram 1500 Quad Cab
Joined
·
26 Posts
Discussion Starter #15 (Edited)
Started to mock up a mounting board for the main amplifier and possibly the capacitor as well.
Also notice the expanding foam that spilled out of the crevices has been trimmed off.
And I have covered but not sealed the rear vents with foam pads.

GOPR0298m.jpg

What's the best way to secure the amp board to the wall?

GOPR0302m.jpg
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,348 Posts
Are you gonna invert the rear seat brackets so that you can easily fold down the seat back to access the amp rack ??
 

·
Registered
2005 Dodge Ram 1500 Quad Cab
Joined
·
26 Posts
Discussion Starter #18
Yes! That is a neat mod that I saw on Ramforum, so I took care of that while I had the seats out.
You can see the hooks flipped over in comment#14 .
 

·
Registered
2005 Dodge Ram 1500 Quad Cab
Joined
·
26 Posts
Discussion Starter #19 (Edited)
CCF applied to storage area under rear seat. On top of this will go a layer of MLV, if I don't run out.
Dual sub box will fill this area

IMG_1947m.jpg

Another row of CCF, where I hadn't yet applied the Frost King foam layer.
IMG_1945m.JPG

This is the tool I've been using to roll out the material (LICTOP brand). It's stainless steel with ball bearing roller and was inexpensive.
It works great, but there are sharp edges which can sometimes cut the material you are rolling out. Wouldn't be an issue with wallpaper, so I can't fault the tool.

IMG_1944m.jpg
 

·
Registered
2005 Dodge Ram 1500 Quad Cab
Joined
·
26 Posts
Discussion Starter #20 (Edited)
Before drilling holes in the rear wall, I checked the fitment with the seat installed.
Adding up the thickness of the CLD+CCF+MLV laters +amp board, there isn't going to be enough room to mount the amplifier down near the floorboard due to this protrusion on the top of the seat hinge bracket.

IMG_1949m.jpg

Still have to cut out the center seat belt rewinder provision at the bottom.

GOPR0303m.jpg

I cut approx. 65" x 25" section of MLV from the roll. This stuff goes fast. I have a bad habit of underestimating qty of materials needed!

IMG_1989m.jpg

I used Velcro Industrial Strength (10lb) strips to hold the MLV to the rear wall.

IMG_1991m.JPG

I only needed to use a handful of Velcro strips just to hold the MLV in place, because the amp board will go on top of it anyway.

IMG_1990m.JPG
 
1 - 20 of 30 Posts
Top