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Looking forward to this one. Your trunk area looks almost identical to my TL so it will be interesting to see how it turns out. Any chance we'll get to hear it at the meet in a couple weeks?
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 · (Edited)
Finding the right angle. 2$ at harbor freight









My buddy had a minimum day today, so free help :)


4 small L brackets drilled in to the support bar.




 

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Discussion Starter · #6 · (Edited)
Initial cardboard template




Initial cardboard template



Problem in the way of the wall


Solution



As suggested by others, I tried the Loctite PL375 adhesive. After more than 24 hours, it was not dry and with minimal effort I was able to move the 2 large brackets. Im not sure why this happened, I am thinking I can just take the car to welding shop and have them welded into place..I dont want to risk drilling there (gas tank)




 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Thanks killa...

Other than the loctite not drying, it went pretty smooth. The inital baffle was cut with 1/4" MDF. This is going to be my template that I use to cut the rest of the pieces. I have a 3/4" piece and a 1/2" piece of MDF, I believe this will be plenty strong for the subs.

As much as I wanted to fit the subs, it looks as though the three will not fit in the space. I am going to undermount one of the subs to give me that 1" I need. The magnets will be facing towards the trunk.

Any thoughts on the 3/4 + 1/2" sheets? Am I losing anything?

Once it stops raining and I have some time (Saturday hopefully) I will cut the two panels, glue them, carpet, foam, then install trim pieces. I bought some weatherstipping, but the fit is so tight and I think the foam will suffice.

My only problem is that the trunk liner is going to have to be cut in 2 pieces. That is what the trim is for. Been real busy, not much time to think, sleeeppy....goodnight
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Looking forward to this one. Your trunk area looks almost identical to my TL so it will be interesting to see how it turns out. Any chance we'll get to hear it at the meet in a couple weeks?
you bet, come hell or whatever they say
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
I am using a famous set of 12" AE IB12's :)

Today, I was able to remove the loctite mess (that stuff is worthless), and I packed the the tried and tested old friend of mine, MR. JB Weld.

Ill give it a day to dry, if it holds, I am on schedule to complete it by Sunday.

It sucks not having sound, all I have is the 2 6x9's powered of the deck.
 

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Three IB 12"s? Are you going to have to reinforce your trunk lid to contain that SPL?
I'm running 2 of the IB15s in basically the same car. The trunk lid takes it very well surprisingly with just a layer of Second Skin. One thing that helped was removing the vents to the outside and putting a screen in their place. It lowered the Q a little which I like and seemed to be a little easier on the trunk. I have a separate problem, a factory wing spoiler that I don't think was available on Accords. Even though it doesn't make any noise, it looks retarded with the amount of movement on the outside. If I have it cranked, I turn it down when people pull up behind me at a red light.
 

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Thanks killa...

Other than the loctite not drying, it went pretty smooth. The inital baffle was cut with 1/4" MDF. This is going to be my template that I use to cut the rest of the pieces. I have a 3/4" piece and a 1/2" piece of MDF, I believe this will be plenty strong for the subs.

As much as I wanted to fit the subs, it looks as though the three will not fit in the space. I am going to undermount one of the subs to give me that 1" I need. The magnets will be facing towards the trunk.

Any thoughts on the 3/4 + 1/2" sheets? Am I losing anything?

Once it stops raining and I have some time (Saturday hopefully) I will cut the two panels, glue them, carpet, foam, then install trim pieces. I bought some weatherstipping, but the fit is so tight and I think the foam will suffice.

My only problem is that the trunk liner is going to have to be cut in 2 pieces. That is what the trim is for. Been real busy, not much time to think, sleeeppy....goodnight

I would do two 3/4" sheets minimum. Are you able to brace it well from the back side? We should have similar SPL and during normal loud listening there's no flexing or vibration but push these subs toward their limits and the baffle does flex just a little. I added some additional bracing to the back side and have 12 of those L brackets attaching it to the car.

I used some weatherstripping foam between the car and the top and bottom of the baffle. Without it, you get squeaking anytime you hit a bump. On these cars, you will need to seal the area between the quarter panel and deck. There's enough SPL coming up from there that the rear panels inside of the car above the deck will vibrate.
 

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BTW, I'm jealous the Accord got a fold down rear seat. I might see what it would take to make the TL do that. Should be a bolt on deal hopefully. The only real difference I see is the TL's cross braces are at much more of an angle and thicker which is probably why they didn't have the seat fold down.

If you plan to run it with the seat up most of the time it's a good idea to remove the plastic housing for the locking skipass door. You will get a little more SPL. I put some black fabric attached to the back of the rear seat so you can't see the subs from the inside of the car even with the armrest down.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Thanks for the info, Matt right?

On the 1.25" of MDF I am going to use, I already used the JB Weld on the 2 large brackets to allow for 1.25" total of wall thickness.

Now I trust when you say I should do 1.5" minimum, however, I have never had a speaker box that used 1.5" walls in it and I cannot for the life of me see the wall not being adequate for these light drivers with not so much xmax.
I hope I am correct, if not I will reinforce it with the steel pieces.

Had anyone chimed in before I glued the brackets, I probably would have changed it. I Will have such a tight fight on the wall, I plan to do foam, then silicone, hopefully I wont have problems.

today I made my 2 final pieces of wall. I had to work tonight, so tomorrow I have to cut out the holes, carpet and seal then mount.
By taking the protective rubber rings off, I was BARELY (I mean 1/8" to spare total) able to fit the 3 subs in a slight V shape.

I think the output will be plenty, I wont have to take out the skipass brackets. I have 2 car seats in there at all times, so the seats wont ever be down, just ski pass open

I will definitely make sure to get either silicone or weatherstrip on the top, thanks for the tip. 12 brackets is crazy, I have 6 total, someone told me the foam adds a lot of hold is that not true? BuickGN, you have pics of the install?

Il be up early to get a headstart, I want my tunes back!
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Final Template (1.4"MDF)


Traced pattern onto 3/4" sheet


An idea I got on this forum:




Damn Jigsaw broke, had to fix it


Final wall, fitted


Going to be a long day :rolleyes:
 

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Looks good. You could run the baffle as is with no sealing (not that I recommend it) and have no issues. When I first installed mine I forgot to plug the 8" stock sub hole in the deck along with the two 6.5" holes. After plugging them I noticed a very small SPL increase but it was hard to tell the difference. I've heard it's more important to seal right at the baffle but I've never tested that theory.

I'm sure your thickness is fine. No structural issues but I can feel a little vibration in my baffle when pushing the subs around xmax. There's no visible flexing and I guess you're always going to feel some kind of vibrations.

Hurry up, I really want to hear this system at the meet. It looks like I'm going to be showing up with only tweeters and subs and some awesome empty kick panels. My mids and midbasses are sold and I won't be buying the Esotars until Friday.
 

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Tonesmith - looking good! I have a '00 Accord that has just about the same trunk (ski pass, two car seats)... I'm heading towards an IB install myself but with (2) 15".

How'd the KB weld work out? Did you have to strip any paint off or did you just glue it down as is?

Where are your amp(s) ending up? I'm considering building up the floor so I can still access the spare tire...

How did you come to land on the AE's? I'm limited on budget and am considering the Dayton IB 15's... Maybe BuickGN can chime in?

Keep up the good work!
 

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Tonesmith - looking good! I have a '00 Accord that has just about the same trunk (ski pass, two car seats)... I'm heading towards an IB install myself but with (2) 15".

How'd the KB weld work out? Did you have to strip any paint off or did you just glue it down as is?

Where are your amp(s) ending up? I'm considering building up the floor so I can still access the spare tire...

How did you come to land on the AE's? I'm limited on budget and am considering the Dayton IB 15's... Maybe BuickGN can chime in?

Keep up the good work!
He's the guy that stole them from me in the for sale thread recently lol. Just kidding but I'm assuming these are the 3 that were for sale pretty recently and I'm very glad he bought them because it took every bit of will power to not buy them even though I don't have a use for them.

I'm far from an IB expert, Sqshoestring is the guy to go to. I've tried quite a few subs IB so I guess I have a little experience.

I would watch the .6 Qts. At .6 unless you have a really large trunk you might be better off with just one of them. If you can vent your trunk, a pair might work. Many people like a Qtc of .7, my personal preference is a little lower. The trunk is going to raise the .6 to something higher, probably around .7 and a second sub will most likely put you over .7. At a minimum I would remove the flaps in the trunk vents and install a scree over them. This should lower the Qtc a little and I know it definitely helped the SQ on mine.

In the end you just have to try it. I tried one sub that had perfect "IB" specs and it sounded terrible. I tried the 12W6 that according to many including JL themselve should not work and it sounded awesome.

Good luck with it, I will help as much as I can. You may want to see if you can find some Image Dynamics IDQ15v2 subs. I've heard these and they sound amazing in IB. I see them once in a while pretty cheap. The Flatlyne 15s also sound very good as do the W6 and W7s.
 
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