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Discussion Starter #1
I've wrapped a few things in carpet and/or vinyl in the past. Needless to say my skill set is limited. It worked, but looks pretty homely.

I was wondering what tips you have for wrapping vinyl to give your hard work that professional look. Any photo tutorials floating around there?

For instance, if you cover both surfaces with contact cement and start laying it down, what if you get a crease, wrinkle, or bubble (especially on odd contour shapes like kick panels)? What if a section of vinyl touches the work by accident? If you rip it up the contract adhesive bond will be trashed for that area right?

How do you work vinyl into concave sections?

Does better quality contact adhesive glue vinyl to plastic factory trim panels good enough?

These are just one of many questions...

Thanks,

Ge0
 

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Well, I don't know if mine will hold up, but so far, it looks good.

What I did was whenever I needed to pull up, if it was in a straight section, I wouldn't worry about it too much, but if it was somewhere where it was wrapping around a shape, I'd put some more contact cement down, and work on something else while it dried and go back to it after.

Hopefully, it won't peel off at the first sign of heat though...
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I spent some time searching the web for examples on how to wrap kicks. Every example I've seen shows you how to fab a kick but pretty much skips right over the vinyling section. Comments from the author mention it being "a pain in the ass" but nobody really elaborates.

I've seen some pretty good work. However, I've also seen some pretty shoddy jobs. I want mine to look like they belong there. No half assed imperfections that could have easily been avoided.

Ge0
 

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Discussion Starter #5
check out fiberglassforums.com there should be something on that site for you, if not register and start a thread over there, thats all those guys do it fiberglass and wrap
Already registered, just don't much since I have nothing really to offer them. I'll browse through there tonight.

Thanks,

Ge0
 

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when i was an installer i had a setup called a "hotbox". this hotbox was made up of a few 2x4's and plywood. the base included 8-12 lights...the large ones that get hot pretty quick. there was a "bridge" made of 2x4's that held the vinyl about 8" above the lights. let it sit for about 15-30 minutes depending on size and weight of the vinyl. this was for larger pieces like entire panels or large boxes.

you can use a heatgun for kickpanels and pillar work. if the vinyl gets shiny, you have heated it too much. test it out on a few scrap pieces. learn how the vinyl stretches with and without heat.
 

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I use a heat gun to heat up the vinyl, I start in the middle and work my way out to the corners. It is a pain in the arse and expect to take a few times to get it looking right.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
I use a heat gun to heat up the vinyl, I start in the middle and work my way out to the corners. It is a pain in the arse and expect to take a few times to get it looking right.
I've been looking for a few days and have yet to come up with something relevant. I'm sure I could do a fine job after a few attempts. I was just hoping to save myself some time and potential headaches by seeing a photo sequence and/or video of a master in the trade doing it.

I'll get by. Gearing to attempt it this Sunday.

Ge0
 

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Discussion Starter #10
This guy is not a master, and it's an easy part, you probably have figured this much out by now.

but here's a vid for you (it's really quite lame as most ED tutorials are)

http://www.icixsound.com/iv/view_video.php?viewkey=6bfb47701cbc8a1653ad
You are correct Dave, that was a pretty elementary video. However, it did show me how pliable vinyl becomes after a little heat. My kicks are goimng to be tricky since they have a much more complex shape. However, they seem doable.

Thanks.

Ge0
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Here are my pods:


Drivers side prep'd and ready for vinyl:

Conforming to the shape of the pod will be tough enough. There is a convex section where the 9:00 position of the speaker ring meets the panel. Then, there is the fuse access cover to deal with(outline under the blue tape). If I remove the fuse access cover and vinyl around the hole in the kick panel, will the access cover go back on? The thickness of the vinyl will create an interference fit.

Passengers side kick pod:

A deeper convex section at the 3:00 position exists where the ring comes close to the panel.

Vinyl SHOULD stretch around this stuff. But, it is going to be tough!!! Then vinyl I have matches the vehicles interior color and texture. If I stretch it too much the texture will become distorted.

Ge0
 

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check out fiberglassforums.com there should be something on that site for you, if not register and start a thread over there, thats all those guys do it fiberglass and wrap
You know as much as I'm into fabrication...I don't enjoy that site too much.

You have to wade through tons of montrosity builds....you know....volcanos.....and it's tiring.

People get the fiberglass itch and just want to build something...and it usually ends up horrible.
 

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I have done quite a bit of wrapping with leather in the past and the single most important thing to remember is be SURE that both surfaces are clean and dry before applying the contact cement, and be sure to allow them to dry to the touch (you will be able to press your palm down on the glue and it will not stick) before joining the two glued surfaces. It is best to begin in contour areas first and work your way out. Bear in mind this is with leather, If using vinyl that has no pattern you can also stretch and use a heat gun if necessary.
After looking at your pods you should have no problem if you begin where the pod meets to the kick and work your way out.
 

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I wish you the best of luck, but my experience with vinyl wrapping something like that (compound curves) has been dismal. I'm not a perfectionist but bumps, wrinkles, stretch marks are not tolerable and I was never able to get it right.

My only input, get some toluene. It will dissolve the contact cement and not really etch the fiberglass, in the event you want/need to try again. Also, attempt a dry run or two, to try to find the best starting point - you'll want to start at the ring, but where the ring meets the factory panel, you'll have overlap and you need to pick a direction to go in to avoid that.

Again, good luck.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
You know as much as I'm into fabrication...I don't enjoy that site too much.

You have to wade through tons of montrosity builds....you know....volcanos.....and it's tiring.

People get the fiberglass itch and just want to build something...and it usually ends up horrible.
J,

I agree with you for the most part. A lot of the forum members there doing custom audio installs have no clue how to achieve even marginal sound quality. A lot of their creations are WTF? However, to me it is still craftsmanship and worth a look. I enjoy watching someone put "their all" into a project regardless if it is ill conceived. True talent does exist. They just need to learn how to properly implement it. Who knows, you may find a new and useful technique after sifting through all the crap.

I'd say this is similar to building a vehicle for a tractor pull. Real Redneck. Nothing I would ever do. However, the time and craftsmanship put into the project must be respected. After all, these guys strap multiple high output engines to a fabricated frame and time them to work in conjuction. Kinda cool. Another analogy would be what the guys at American choppers do. I think their bikes are fuggly but do respect how they came to the final result. Talented dudes...

Ge0

Ge0
 

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J,

I agree with you for the most part. A lot of the forum members there doing custom audio installs have no clue how to achieve even marginal sound quality. A lot of their creations are WTF? However, to me it is still craftsmanship and worth a look. I enjoy watching someone put "their all" into a project regardless if it is ill conceived. True talent does exist. They just need to learn how to properly implement it.

I agree....good craftsmanship and techniques ARE there from the anchor members as I like ti call them.

It's just alot of non audio oriented minds doing stereo installs and it baffles my mind WHY some of them are doing this stuff.
 

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Almost forgot big G....

Start wrapping those pods at the most difficult and awkeward angle first...it'll be cake after that.

Cut you piece of vinyl....make a circle that is a tight compression fit and use that as a clamp to hold the vinyl in place.

Apply your DAP Weldwood contact cement to both kickpanel and the back of the vinyl.....let both pieces dry for at least 30 minutes.

Orient the vinyl to the kick.....heat it with your heat gun....make some relief cuts center out in the speaker area.....pop the clamp piece in.

Now heat the area you want to adhere ....when the vinyl is in place cool it with a cool wet rag to "set" the glue.

Your fingers are your best tools. but I also like to have a few pieces of wood contoured to any special shapes of the piece. You could use a 2" to 2.5" round for a corner tool.

Heat....stretch adhere...cool.

After your baffle area is buttoned down that piece should be cake.:D

Any questions class?
 
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