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Discussion Starter · #1 ·

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LOL...Maybe for a tweeter!!!

Balsa wood is the exact opposite of what you want to build a subwoofer box... in other words, use material that is heavy and dense in order to reduce cabinet resonance and to help prevent vibrations.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
what if the box is built very well... say perfectly.... with internal bracing, etc. real nice sturdy box design, no wall flex. then is light weight wood good stuff.....?
i'm not talking about 1/4" tiny wimpy balsa wood, i'm talking about 3/4" layered same size as MDF/plywood box, built to perfection (theoretically speaking).

does weight by itself matter in a box design?
their marketing material, granted it is market material... says it's pretty much as rigid as plywood, so it's a strong material.

P.S. i am trying to reduce weight of the system overall.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
i believe it is used to make furniture in RV's/ items in boats, etc. why not nicely constructed woofer boxes? maybe add a little extra internal bracing?

Slope Rectangle Plot Font Parallel
 

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Stiffness is not necessarily what matters. You need some that is acoustically damp. This is why MDF is so good. If you're looking for weight savings maybe consider composites like fiberglass or a really good baltic birch ply. If the goal is weight reduction consider IB installs over enclosures maybe..
 

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Baltic Birch is very light compared to MDF. Yet still works well for subs.
 

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JL audio sells premade sub boxes that are less than 3/4 inch to make them shallow. They use extra bracing and say it is just as good.

30 years ago nobody would dare use plastic for speaker enclosures but now the home market is full of great sounding plastic speakers. Fiberglass is nowhere near as dead as MDF yet can sound great.

My sense is that it would be fine even if not 100% optimal.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
yea, ok. this is interesting. This makes sense to me and was inline with what i was thinking....
the birch and regular plywood and MDF are all on my radar, i just saw the lightweight wood and though it was a neat material.
seems like it would be real nice to save on weight for subwoofer boxes in cars, as long as you build a box that doesn't bend/flex/vibrate.
i would imagine the material doesn't matter much?

Stiffness is not necessarily what matters. You need some that is acoustically damp. This is why MDF is so good. If you're looking for weight savings maybe consider composites like fiberglass or a really good baltic birch ply. If the goal is weight reduction consider IB installs over enclosures maybe..
this doesn't make sense to me..... it seems contradictory.
i mean, fiberglass enclosures weigh nothing, but people use those for subwoofers all the time.
i dont really know what acoustically damp means. how could you tell if a material is acoustically damp?
 

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damp means the structure doesn't resonate. I haven't seen anyone try that material before so if its cheap why not experiment with it for us? Build two enclosures to the same spec and take some measurements.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
i would be building ported enclosures for 12" subwoofers. LPF on amp around 80Hz, tuning freq. on the port around 40Hz neighborhood, nothing fancy. this is to put in the rear of my mid-size SUV.
what kind of measurements would i take? you mean impedance/resistance vs. freq. curve for woofer in box? i can do that one, have done in past.

i'm not sure on cost, i am waiting to hear back from some retailers, i suspect it is not cheap, lol - sad face. it's sustainable, etc.
i figured if it passes the common sense check with you guys first, then a little extra cost vs. ~50% less weight could be worth a try....
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
I'm planning on making 3x ported 12" boxes, if i use one 4'x8' sheet, that saves ~30lb, if i used 2x sheets that saves ~60lbs using this balsa vs. plywood. the weight savings balsa vs. mdf are ~2x of this. seems worth while.

what's sonotube ? concrete forms?

el-pipe-o.indd (firstwatt.com)
 

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I'm planning on making 3x ported 12" boxes, if i use one 4'x8' sheet, that saves ~30lb, if i used 2x sheets that saves ~60lbs using this balsa vs. plywood. the weight savings balsa vs. mdf are ~2x of this. seems worth while.

what's sonotube ? concrete forms?

el-pipe-o.indd (firstwatt.com)
Why does it seem worth it? What is the goal? Will you be moving the box around? If not I don't see why weight is that big of a concern. The vehicle is not going to care much about 60 lbs.
 

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Balsa will fine if...your only goal is to save weight and be as efficient as possible with a ported box. The smaller the better. Saves even more weight.
Bracing will be crucial as well how the wood is layered. Voids make it weaker. Especially when the are in a joint.
Material isn't as important as construction.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
yea my goal is to be able to take the 3x boxes in and out depending on the need (bike/snowboard gear, luggage, hauling stuff, etc.). also to not have a saggy rear end. 3x 12" woofers + 3x boxes + larger amp + battery or cap or whatever. it'll be a lot of weight all added up. the more i can save the nicer, imo.

Why does it seem worth it? What is the goal? Will you be moving the box around? If not I don't see why weight is that big of a concern. The vehicle is not going to care much about 60 lbs.
 

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yea my goal is to be able to take the 3x boxes in and out depending on the need (bike/snowboard gear, luggage, hauling stuff, etc.). also to not have a saggy rear end. 3x 12" woofers + 3x boxes + larger amp + battery or cap or whatever. it'll be a lot of weight all added up. the more i can save the nicer, imo.
Well you could mitigate the rear end sag and it balsa will save some weight.
You could also look into a better spring and strut for the rear end.
With all the cost involved a set of adjustable gas struts with spring is what I have done in the past.
The labor was me but the strut assembly was only 600 bucks. And I got nicer ones than needed.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
yea, I'm trying to head that one off at the pass :)
that's the work i would prefer not to do.
i've done jobs like that on a previous mustang.
it's kind of fun work, but tough stuff still.

what parts did you use? link?
i might be interested in something like that, if push comes to shove.
 
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