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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I had a set of each, and was pretty happy with them. But I'm wondering if a fairly cheap DIY setup can beat both. Just from some of the prices on some of the most recomended parts around here, seems like $200-250 would get a nice setup.

The RE's had good midbass, but more is always better :) The RE's didn't seem to move much for 6mm xmax, which I think others noted too (not sure how much that could or even did affect midbass). The midrange of the RE's didn't seem quite as good as the CDT's. I'd prefer a more laid back tweet like the CDT's had, but maybe not as laid back.

One thing I think I'd like is a tweet that can be crossed over fairly low. My mid will be way off axis in the door by my feet, but the tweet will be just a little off axis in the dash. I had to put my head down by the gearshifter to hear a lot of the mids with the CDT's. I think they were crossed over at 5khz. The RE's were better, and I think they were crossed at 2khz.

I'd like to see how npdang's 6.5" mids turn out, but can anyone compare the popular Seas CA18's or G18's to what I had? The Seas 27TBFC/G (H1212) is a tweet that I've read good things about that should play low, and I can fit a big tweet (one with the base that goes around it, not sure what that's called) like that in my dash.

TIA
 

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Ive owned both of those sets, and neither is top of the line to put it lightly lol

if you have the power, and a 4 channel amp

id try either the ca18/g18 seas for 110 a pair, or the dayton 7", and a nice tweet even that seas 27 is only 120 a set from solen


id think either of those mids will out perform both the cl/re sets from what I have heard or read

happy hunting

and I read that some guy over at caraudio.com is making passives (ie DIY componet sets) for a dayton 7"/4" tweeter and sellign the set all together for 300

that would be a great option IMO if you ddint want to run active
 

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I think a set of Seas g18rnx/p or ca18rnx would be far better than either of those sets. More mid/bass, and improved midrange clarity. You could also pair it with the LPG 25nfa tweeter which has a very pleasing, detailed yet unoffensive sound.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
newtitan said:
Ive owned both of those sets, and neither is top of the line to put it lightly lol

if you have the power, and a 4 channel amp

id try either the ca18/g18 seas for 110 a pair, or the dayton 7", and a nice tweet even that seas 27 is only 120 a set from solen


id think either of those mids will out perform both the cl/re sets from what I have heard or read

happy hunting

and I read that some guy over at caraudio.com is making passives (ie DIY componet sets) for a dayton 7"/4" tweeter and sellign the set all together for 300

that would be a great option IMO if you ddint want to run active
One thing to also consider is x-over. I thought passive would be much cheaper, but found some actives for around $50-100 that may be just fine. A guy here is selling this Arc 2 way x-over, but I'm a total newbie to actives, so don't know if it has what I'd need.

I have a few older 2 channel amps I could use, but I may buy a cheap 4 channel. Any decent 4 channels out there on the cheap?

I also think that Seas 27 is $30 a piece from Madisound, have to check again and make sure that's the same one.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
npdang said:
I think a set of Seas g18rnx/p or ca18rnx would be far better than either of those sets. More mid/bass, and improved midrange clarity. You could also pair it with the LPG 25nfa tweeter which has a very pleasing, detailed yet unoffensive sound.
One thing I forgot to mention is I won't have an enclosure, the mid will just be mounted to the door (well to a 3/4" mdf ring, then the door with a little bit of sound deadening). I was told the RE worked best like this, would that be true to for either of these Seas drivers?
 

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yeap, thats true for most midbass. well atleast I think so. my midbass rattled the door. so if the wood stiffens things up, that will help. and the sound deading material absorbs the impacts of the speaker moving. than I would go with yes.
 

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I have seen the Audiocontrol 2xs units go on Ebay for around $25-$35 shipped. Those are nice 2 channel active units as well. Thats a cheap way to filter everything...
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Can someone give a noobie the basics of actives? I don't know exaclty what terms like 2 way, 3 way, 2 chanel, 6 channel, etc mean. I'm assuming a 2 way has one high pass and one low pass? Maybe 2 channel means it has 2 output channels (which I'd need 4?).

Would you run the front rca's from the HU to the x-over only? Or front and rear? I'm guessing there may be a few different ways to make it all work.
 

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Solen.ca also does custom xover building. I like active units because of the adjustability of them. And for $20 each, its a steal.
 

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Bobo said:
Can someone give a noobie the basics of actives? I don't know exaclty what terms like 2 way, 3 way, 2 chanel, 6 channel, etc mean. I'm assuming a 2 way has one high pass and one low pass? Maybe 2 channel means it has 2 output channels (which I'd need 4?).

Would you run the front rca's from the HU to the x-over only? Or front and rear? I'm guessing there may be a few different ways to make it all work.
http://www.bcae1.com/
Topic #26,27,28, 30, 54...better just start on whatever topic peaks your interest and begin reading...good website for beginners.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
MIAaron said:
I would get an active xover that has a variable xover. Units with xover cards are a PIA to try different points. Once you take into account the cost of the cards, they are not that good of a deal.
I'm still looking at x-overs to find out what's decent, yet cheap that'll get the job done for me.

The CA18 looks like it may be the best for strong midbass and clear midrange for a fairly cheap price (still waiting to see how npdang's mids turn out, look sweet so far).

Still looking at tweeters, but not seeing lots of people wanting to cross them over very low like I think I'd like to do.

I'll take my time and read some more. Thanks for the help all 8)
 

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One good x-over u can consider and it's cheap enough would be the AudioControl 2XS. 18dB/octave slopes, and single inputs.

U can configure it so that the tweeters are taking signals from the high-pass, and configure the PFM module as the highpass of your bandpass on the mids(the lowpass of the bandpass for the mids would be the same as the highpass for the tweeters).
 

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I bought the EF-61s and had them for less than a week. I was very disapointed in the tweeters, they lacked any kind of detail and were very low in volume compared to the mids. I might have had a defective pair of tweeters but I just decided to send the whole set back for a refund.

I bought the Dayton RS150S-8 6" mid range and RS28A-4. I should have them installed by the weekend and I will post a review comparing their sound to the EF-61s.
 
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