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I'm in the process of trying various mids and midbass drivers and am constantly dealing with warped MDF and threaded holes stripping out. I'm looking to add an aluminum ring(s) to use as an adapter plate to bolt various drivers into. I don't want to use delrin or HDPE because some of these will be pretty thin/thin wall and will likely warp in plastic. Does anyone here make their own, and/or interested in quoting me some? I can send drawings, and provide material if required. I'm looking at a minimum of 3 pairs for now.

Also, I've been using grip-liner tool box shelf liner (the non-bumpy stuff) for gasketing material. Anyone see any issues with that vs using the speaker gasket tape or something else?
 

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I'm in the process of trying various mids and midbass drivers and am constantly dealing with warped MDF and threaded holes stripping out. I'm looking to add an aluminum ring(s) to use as an adapter plate to bolt various drivers into. I don't want to use delrin or HDPE because some of these will be pretty thin/thin wall and will likely warp in plastic. Does anyone here make their own, and/or interested in quoting me some? I can send drawings, and provide material if required. I'm looking at a minimum of 3 pairs for now.

Also, I've been using grip-liner tool box shelf liner (the non-bumpy stuff) for gasketing material. Anyone see any issues with that vs using the speaker gasket tape or something else?
Bump. This is of interest to me, because I'm local :D

I plan to use "Foamies" CCF as gasketing material. I found it at JoAnn for less than a dollar per sheet:

Foamies 12 x 18 Thick Sheet - Black
 

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Discussion Starter #4
^^ don't have a router or drill press to make these in AL...

Bump. This is of interest to me, because I'm local :D

I plan to use "Foamies" CCF as gasketing material. I found it at JoAnn for less than a dollar per sheet:

Foamies 12 x 18 Thick Sheet - Black
Hmm... I'll have to stop by JoAnn or Michaels and see what these are like. I see there are adhesive backed versions also, which would be a plus if they'll stick to MDF, at least temporarily.
 

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^^ don't have a router or drill press to make these in AL...



Hmm... I'll have to stop by JoAnn or Michaels and see what these are like. I see there are adhesive backed versions also, which would be a plus if they'll stick to MDF, at least temporarily.
I know JoAnn has them. JoAnn just has more stuff in general, and a higher proportion of it is of interest to DIYers like us. Michaels is full of fake flowers and wicker crap :rolleyes:
 

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Discussion Starter #6
I stopped by JoAnn (that store was a dump!) and picked up some of the foamie sheets. They only had 2mm thick on-hand. The crappy cell pic below shows it and the gripliner I've been using, which is about half the thickness. I'll try both and see which one I like better.

I plan on using them on both sides of my new mounting rings in the other pic. I plan on conducting my own mid-range comparo, so these will be super handy.
 

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I stopped by JoAnn (that store was a dump!) and picked up some of the foamie sheets. They only had 2mm thick on-hand. The crappy cell pic below shows it and the gripliner I've been using, which is about half the thickness. I'll try both and see which one I like better.

I plan on using them on both sides of my new mounting rings in the other pic. I plan on conducting my own mid-range comparo, so these will be super handy.
Looks like somebody found a machine shop :D
 

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You can generally put an end mill in a router if the router is around the speed that you need (or is adjustable and can run at an appropriate speed). Wear safety goggles (or at least glasses), ear protection, heavy long sleeve shirt, etc. Take very small passes. Use Google to find out what RPM you should use.

(As always, this is at your own risk)
 

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I stopped by JoAnn (that store was a dump!) and picked up some of the foamie sheets. They only had 2mm thick on-hand. The crappy cell pic below shows it and the gripliner I've been using, which is about half the thickness. I'll try both and see which one I like better.

I plan on using them on both sides of my new mounting rings in the other pic. I plan on conducting my own mid-range comparo, so these will be super handy.
So where did you end up having the rings machined? I'm in Scottsdale, so Mesa isn't too far to drive to deliver specs and pick something up.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
I don't know if the guy I used wants his contact info published, so I'll PM you shortly.

BTW, Michaels has adhesive backed foam that's a little thinner than the foamies stuff from Joann, for future ref.
 

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I know I'm a newbie to this forum, but this thread caught my eye so I figured I'd throw this out there.

At one of my jobs I have full access for my own projects to a table rotary engraving system (I'm the only engraver tech-boss lets me do whatever I want in free time). I can easily design templates in autocad and have cutter heads that can handle aluminum. I'm not posting this to plug myself for business, just putting it out there. I would do it at just slightly above material costs if anyone was interested.

All I would need is to source the aluminum sheet and get design specs.
 

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^^^ Hmm... interesting. What workpiece size and thickness can you handle?

I'm planning on getting other pieces made soon. I got a guy who's really reasonable but having other sources is nice too. I can provide drawings and/or 3D models if you can program from them.
 

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^^^ Hmm... interesting. What workpiece size and thickness can you handle?

I'm planning on getting other pieces made soon. I got a guy who's really reasonable but having other sources is nice too. I can provide drawings and/or 3D models if you can program from them.
So I won't be as flexible in options as an actual machine shop, but I should be able to do them really cheap.

I will have to experiment a little with my setup to see what thicknesses I can handle. I am limited here somewhat as the cutting bits for this are primarily designed for engraveable products, but I have a few tricks up my sleeve.

It's a table setup, hence it's 2D designs with the third dimension coming from multiple cut layers and cut depths. I could extrapolate that from existing 3D designs you have or you could just send my the specs I would need.

I'm going to look into local sources for aluminum sheeting that would be suitable in the next couple of weeks and see what I can do.
 

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Well I stopped by my regular engraving supplier for some other stock I needed and grabbed a small sheet of their thickest aluminum stock, which is only 1/20" thick anodized aluminum. I figured I would put it to use on some project so it was worth having to play with.

I'll still follow up with a sheet aluminum supplier here locally, just haven't had time to make it out there yet.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
.05" sheet isn't thick enough to serve any real purpose as a baffle or as an adapter ring to mount to. The rings I had made are 1/4", thick enough to bolt the driver to it.
 

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.05" sheet isn't thick enough to serve any real purpose as a baffle or as an adapter ring to mount to. The rings I had made are 1/4", thick enough to bolt the driver to it.
I realize that, hence why I'm still going to go through a sheet metal supplier.

I still am going to use the .05 to experiment with some other projects and cutting speeds/bit choices for aluminum.
 

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ROBolop on FiberglassForums makes all kinds aluminum parts, including speaker rings using just a variable speed router and typical wood bits. I read his entire BMW Beryllium build thread, which is an amazing DIY fabrication trip that I highly recommend. His techniques yield impressive results to say the least. Of course a machine shop with a CNC mill would be ideal, but most of us probably don't have access to that. A good router costs about $150 or so.

Check out this sample:

BERYLLIUM BMW (ROBolop) - Page 89 - Fiberglass Forums
 

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ROBolop on FiberglassForums makes all kinds aluminum parts, including speaker rings using just a variable speed router and typical wood bits. I read his entire BMW Beryllium build thread, which is an amazing DIY fabrication trip that I highly recommend. His techniques yield impressive results to say the least. Of course a machine shop with a CNC mill would be ideal, but most of us probably don't have access to that. A good router costs about $150 or so.

Check out this sample:

BERYLLIUM BMW (ROBolop) - Page 89 - Fiberglass Forums
I am a big fan of his work over at FG forums. I've read through pretty much all of his projects.
 

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I realize that, hence why I'm still going to go through a sheet metal supplier.

I still am going to use the .05 to experiment with some other projects and cutting speeds/bit choices for aluminum.
Bumping this one back up to the top...where are you in Ohio?

I'm trying to figure out a way to get some aluminum rings made that can take the place of a couple broken plastic Dynaudio speaker grilles - they are two pieces, so the mesh is separate from the plastic ring that holds it in place. I want to have a piece of aluminum machined that can take the place of the plastic rings, so it wouldn't have to be very thick, but I'd probably want something in the 1/16" range, maybe thicker just so it doesn't look cheesy.
 

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you'll prolly want to go at least 1/8" so it won't twist / warp etc, especially if it is a narrow trim ring that you are making.

if you check out the link above "robolop" - you'll see that he uses min 5mm and sometimes he remakes the piece in 8mm cause the 5mm is too thin.

best of luck - his work is sick - it's got me excited to dust off my router and get back into milling Alu.

If you decide to do it yourself a router speed adjuster is an absolute must along with the use of cutting solution and carbide bits.

Also take inventory of all digits before and after any project!!! :laugh: :eek:
 
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