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after enjoying this driver for a few days (the sq is awesome)



im starting to wonder if anyone uses pro audio drivers instead of jl/focal/hertz/alpine/ and all the other popular drivers.

the sound is so dry and tight and accurate im wondering if ill ever go back to my W6?
 

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Thats an old school Beauty ! What type enclosure is she in ?
 

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I felt the same way about the sound of my old IDW-15s.

If I could find pro drivers that had decent x-max AND didn't break the bank, I would be using them.

Once you've heard that kind of sound, it is really hard to fall in love with anything else.
 

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I've never heard pro audio subs in a car, but I kinda think these AE IB15's come really close to that type of sound. Using 10" pro audio midbass drivers adds to the effect I'm sure.
 

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thats why I love my IDW15s. even use one in the house
 

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I've never heard pro audio subs in a car, but I kinda think these AE IB15's come really close to that type of sound. Using 10" pro audio midbass drivers adds to the effect I'm sure.
That's exactly what I was thinking. The IB15s sound a lot like an equivalent pro audio driver but with good bottom end as well.
 

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Cerwin-Vega! Strokers are a perfect example. Good sq with tons of spl potential. Their ultras low Qts gives them a characteristically tight sound with little overhang. Unfortunately it also causes the ultra low end to drop off a bit faster.
 

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I have found that they typically won't play as low and require a huge enclosure. I guess mid bass options are another story though and you got to the love their efficiency!
 

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Fish - Which ones did you get? How do they sound, sealed or ported, xo..?
I have the Faital Pro W10N4-200 Faital Pro W10N8-200 10" Mid-Bass Speakers - Faital Pro W10N8-200 mid-bass speaker . This 10" speaker that has a lightweight neodymium magnet - Faital Pro W10N8-200 400 watt 10" efficiency of 98dB SPL woofer for all high power mid-bass applications. playing midbass (63-250hz, 36db slopes on each end) IB in my doors with 300 watts going to each.

They're punchy & tight as hell! Although they really start to drop off under 80hz, but crossing them @80hz they don't sound as full & the subs start to give away their location. Drums are incredible!

Don't you have some JBL 12" midbass ported in your car?
 

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I have JBL 2204's, 12". But they are not ported at this time. Most of the time I feel like I really went overboard putting 12's in 1 cu/ft sealed enclosures in the doors. But now after all the work is done I have no regrets.

I also use Audax Pr170M0 for my mids, they made a huge difference in the speed/impact of the drums. Between the two speakers I am completely covered with 96db sensitivity from 80 to 3000K Hz. Drums are amazing, immediate and often painful. At the same time I am only using about half their travel at full power. But I have never been at full power (just too loud),so maybe next time a 10" like yours would make a quicker yet fully satisfying install.


I would like to try a PA sub but they can only be used in very large enclosures or IB and I have a small hatch.
 

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Having owned and used both of those midbasses and mids though not at the same time...that has to be a beautiful sounding car. Two of my all time favorite speakers right there. I am jealous.


I have JBL 2204's, 12". But they are not ported at this time. Most of the time I feel like I really went overboard putting 12's in 1 cu/ft sealed enclosures in the doors. But now after all the work is done I have no regrets.

I also use Audax Pr170M0 for my mids, they made a huge difference in the speed/impact of the drums. Between the two speakers I am completely covered with 96db sensitivity from 80 to 3000K Hz. Drums are amazing, immediate and often painful. At the same time I am only using about half their travel at full power. But I have never been at full power (just too loud),so maybe next time a 10" like yours would make a quicker yet fully satisfying install.


I would like to try a PA sub but they can only be used in very large enclosures or IB and I have a small hatch.
 

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I have JBL 2204's, 12". But they are not ported at this time. Most of the time I feel like I really went overboard putting 12's in 1 cu/ft sealed enclosures in the doors. But now after all the work is done I have no regrets.

I also use Audax Pr170M0 for my mids, they made a huge difference in the speed/impact of the drums. Between the two speakers I am completely covered with 96db sensitivity from 80 to 3000K Hz. Drums are amazing, immediate and often painful. At the same time I am only using about half their travel at full power. But I have never been at full power (just too loud),so maybe next time a 10" like yours would make a quicker yet fully satisfying install.


I would like to try a PA sub but they can only be used in very large enclosures or IB and I have a small hatch.

Any chance you have any build pics of those doors? I'd love to try to cram a 1 cf sealed enclosure in my Civic doors.
 

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I think that if more people had actually heard PA "subs" in a car audio application then my pair of B&C 15NW100's would be sold already. LOL! It's almost exactly an IDW15, but with a neo motor on it. I also really enjoy how they sound. And the high efficiency is a nice bonus. Alas, a Scion xB just can't house them in the proper enclosure (or IB) environment. :(
 

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I would like to try a PA sub but they can only be used in very large enclosures or IB and I have a small hatch.
Unfortunately, the usually large Vas is what gives a PA sub it's sensitivity, along with it's higher Fs and low Qes of course. If you could find a clever way of "laminating" the spider to make it stiffer, you'd greatly reduce the enclosure volume requirements, but this also raises Fs a bit. You can add weight to the cone as well to bring Fs back down, but both of these techniques reduce sensitivity and in the end you're back to owning a "car" sub--low Vas, low Fs, and usually low sensitivity, but great low-end extension. It's the Iron law in effect.
 

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Unfortunately, the usually large Vas is what gives a PA sub it's sensitivity, along with it's higher Fs and low Qes of course. If you could find a clever way of "laminating" the spider to make it stiffer, you'd greatly reduce the enclosure volume requirements, but this also raises Fs a bit. You can add weight to the cone as well to bring Fs back down, but both of these techniques reduce sensitivity and in the end you're back to owning a "car" sub--low Vas, low Fs, and usually low sensitivity, but great low-end extension. It's the Iron law in effect.
The solution to these kinds of subs in a small hatchback is simply cutting a hole in the sheet metal and running it IB. Not a conventional or "tame" install method, but it works every time.
 

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The solution to these kinds of subs in a small hatchback is simply cutting a hole in the sheet metal and running it IB. Not a conventional or "tame" install method, but it works every time.
Absolutely that would work. I was simply commenting on why most PA subs needs such darn huge boxes. Thankfully, my Stroker subwoofers (of which I will likely use two 12s in my car) have a very stiff overall suspension which doesn't kill the space requirements. Now to figure out what to do with the other 10 of them, hehe. :)
 
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