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Discussion Starter #1
I have a couple oldschool Kicker F8c's laying around that I am thinking about trying as midbass in my doors (thinking about 70Hz-160Hz or so as a starting point). These look good on paper for IB applications (high Qts and the fact that they are 8's vs. a standard 6.5"). Anyone with experience using or hearing these drivers IB in deadened doors & what are your thoughts?
 

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I can't speak to the usefulness as a midbass driver, but if you decide not to use them, I might be interested in purchasing one or both. My wife's Civic has a freeair sub that is awful and desperately needs an upgrade.
 

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Try to find specs and model them. To be real general, and since many of those old subs didn't have specs...it depends some old subs were just woofers, like home speakers, and they worked good for that but could tend to have higher Fs...though you might avoid some of that as midbass and not sub. Or, they used a heavy cone to lower Fs and then they would not play higher well at all but work great in the intended range. If they have a lighter cone, you might get rising db with rising frequency in the car. You have to tune around that, it is very typical for efficient subs but if they peak around 100hz or something that is great for midbass. I have run a lot of old subs IB, but they are all different and never used that particular one. Back then it was pretty much try it and see, you can kind of tell if you play them in a baffle or large box, or even lay them into a cardboard box with a hole in it and play them quietly to gauge response. If they play midrange well or only want to play bass will tell you. If they play high louder than bass, then you have to use the xover slope and/or EQ to even the bass to mid response to get them flat. If they play bass well in the range you want then they should be good to go. Sorry for being vague, but that is how I did it then it is hard to explain.

If you model some high and low qts subs, you can see how the response changes, you have to match that to the car/use. The more efficient the more they like to play midrange, but they need less power. They can sound nasty if you don't compensate for it and that is why a lot of people stick an IB in and don't like it. You got no box to tune, you have to do it with electronics/passives or change the driver....if you use that driver then that only leaves one choice. You can also tap the cone and listen for approximate Fs to give you an idea.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Thanks for the input. I do have the T/S specs on the Kicker F8c, and they do indeed seem to be suited for large box use. What I did first, before deciding whether I wanted to cut up my doors, is make an MDF baffle and mount one of my Image Dynamics OEM 6.5" drivers to it. The door was relatively well sealed and the baffle was sealed to the door. I played some test tones thru it, unequalized and found the response around 40Hz was surprisingly good :) But the midbass was not snappy or sharp enough, and at many frequencies the door was rattling inside quite a bit. I came to the conclusion that I don't want to go through the trouble of mounting that driver, let alone an 8" driver, in my doors, given the non-ideal nature of the doors as enclosures and then locating and fixing rattles and leaks. I'm going to stick with using my ID's as dedicated midbasses in mid-sized kickpanel enclosures.

acetylene, sending you a PM about the Kicker drivers.
 
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