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Discussion Starter #1
There is this subtle grind. I mean Subtle. It's like a scratchy sound. With music playing it's almost in audible. I changed all rcas today.
They have been this way for a while. Like a few months. It is so minor you dont really notice it and when you do the music kind if makes it sound like a rattle in the door or something but it isnt.

Well i just soloed them one at a time and they sound a bit scratchy. The music itself sounds great . Ear to driver not so good.

Maybe a dirty gain pot? How would I check for that? I've never had this happen before though I have pounded on them for 3 years now.

Is there a way to test them? I don't have a amp at home to try them free air out of the car system.

What steps should I take?
 

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Push on it strait down to feel for voice coil rub. If it physically rubs I would not use them cause they could short and kill the amp. Or turn the crossover off and play like 10 hz thorough it so it moves slow. Like a watt or 2 won't hurt it. And listen for rubbing.

Too much power after going active maybe? I've overdriven speakers the first time I went active thinking I needed more midbass. Tweeters were just too hot.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Push on it strait down to feel for voice coil rub. If it physically rubs I would not use them cause they could short and kill the amp. Or turn the crossover off and play like 10 hz thorough it so it moves slow. Like a watt or 2 won't hurt it. And listen for rubbing.

Too much power after going active maybe? I've overdriven speakers the first time I went active thinking I needed more midbass. Tweeters were just too hot.
No rub. I checked that yesterday. I'm really thinking it's a dirty amp pot or something.
 

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Put a deep bass note at low power on them and listen during playback. If you hear a static type of sound with the note, they may be gone. Take one out and connect to a source/output not in the vehicle to eliminate other issues.
 

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Push on it strait down to feel for voice coil rub. If it physically rubs I would not use them cause they could short and kill the amp. Or turn the crossover off and play like 10 hz thorough it so it moves slow. Like a watt or 2 won't hurt it. And listen for rubbing.

Too much power after going active maybe? I've overdriven speakers the first time I went active thinking I needed more midbass. Tweeters were just too hot.
No rub. I checked that yesterday. I'm really thinking it's a dirty amp pot or something.
If it's not rubbing maybe the spider came loose. But I doubt it happened to both. It must me coming upstream. You have another speaker you could plug in? Even a bookshelf would work for a quick test.
 

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Pull them out of the door and solo them on the existing amp. Then put them on a different pair of channels to test your dirty gain pot theory. May as well test on the subwoofer amp CAREFULLY just to take the 600/4 out of the picture.
 

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You can also put a spare speaker in their place in the car and listen for the scratchy sound.

What you're describing definitely COULD be blown drivers (scratchy sound especially when listening closely.)

Trying the drivers on external equipment, and/or replacing them with known good drivers is really to only way be sure.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
You can also put a spare speaker in their place in the car and listen for the scratchy sound.

What you're describing definitely COULD be blown drivers (scratchy sound especially when listening closely.)

Trying the drivers on external equipment, and/or replacing them with known good drivers is really to only way be sure.
I just stopped by the shop. We are going to dig into it later.
If its blown drivers all audio frog is coming out.
I've never blown fiscal stuff even on 380w per side.
 

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The loud pops you gave them probably didn't do those speakers any favors. I wouldn't blame the speakers for not being durable if you sent them a pop that probably bottomed them out several times.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
The loud pops you gave them probably didn't do those speakers any favors. I wouldn't blame the speakers for not being durable if you sent them a pop that probably bottomed them out several times.
While I agree, this has been going on as long as I can remember. The pops just happened.
I thought it was just something in the door resonating until I put my ear next to the driver. I had no pops before last week.
Trust me I'm not dogging AF. Andy's been great to me and the speakers are really good but I've melted multiple crossovers and now this. I'm just frustrated because I've never blown a driver before intentionally. Hell it may not even be the drivers. Havent found out what the issue is yet.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
The gb60 are fine. Pulled both this morning and played them free air on another source.

That leaves the amp or the stock head unit. I feel like this has always been there. So many have told me the ford sync 3 head was a clean unit.

It's not intermittent like a connection issue. It's the very low grind that is easy to hear with the system turned way down and with fresh ears.
It is louder with the system turned up but harder to distinguish from the music.


I mentioning in another thread that I've always felt this system had just a little bit of distortion. A harshness that cannot be tuned out.

I thought it was resonance but it's not unfortunately.

Are there reports of bad jl hd amps? Maybe the stock head unit after so much processing is showing it's true colors?

I want to change the amps anyway so that's being done. What can I do in the meantime to rule out the factory radio?
I could fo into the helix direct from my phones headphone jack. Its the only other source I have.
 

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The gb60 are fine. Pulled both this morning and played them free air on another source.

That leaves the amp or the stock head unit. I feel like this has always been there. So many have told me the ford sync 3 head was a clean unit.

It's not intermittent like a connection issue. It's the very low grind that is easy to hear with the system turned way down and with fresh ears.
It is louder with the system turned up but harder to distinguish from the music.


I mentioning in another thread that I've always felt this system had just a little bit of distortion. A harshness that cannot be tuned out.

I thought it was resonance but it's not unfortunately.

Are there reports of bad jl hd amps? Maybe the stock head unit after so much processing is showing it's true colors?

I want to change the amps anyway so that's being done. What can I do in the meantime to rule out the factory radio?
I could fo into the helix direct from my phones headphone jack. Its the only other source I have.

Have you pulled them out, played them free air, on the same source? Playing them free air, and with a different source is changing 2 variables, instead of just one. Always try to only change one variable at a time. It's unlikely, but sometimes when a woofer is snugged down to the baffle there is a little flex in the basket if it's not snugged evenly, or if the baffle isn't perfectly flat, which can cause a tiny amount of coil rub. Playing them free air, but on the same source will help tell you if it's in fact the source, or distortion from the woofers caused by the install. From looking at the GB60 basket it's unlikely that you're flexing it enough to cause rub, but it's always a good thing to check, this can be a somewhat common problem with thinner stamped basket woofers.
 

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I want to change the amps anyway so that's being done. What can I do in the meantime to rule out the factory radio?
I could fo into the helix direct from my phones headphone jack. Its the only other source I have.
Run another source to the helix like you mentioned. Phone to RCA works. You can also run straight to the amp powering the speakers which would tell you it is the amp if you still hear it. If you were to still hear it going to the Helix then technically it could be the helix or your tune.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
The gb60 are fine. Pulled both this morning and played them free air on another source.

That leaves the amp or the stock head unit. I feel like this has always been there. So many have told me the ford sync 3 head was a clean unit.

It's not intermittent like a connection issue. It's the very low grind that is easy to hear with the system turned way down and with fresh ears.
It is louder with the system turned up but harder to distinguish from the music.


I mentioning in another thread that I've always felt this system had just a little bit of distortion. A harshness that cannot be tuned out.

I thought it was resonance but it's not unfortunately.

Are there reports of bad jl hd amps? Maybe the stock head unit after so much processing is showing it's true colors?

I want to change the amps anyway so that's being done. What can I do in the meantime to rule out the factory radio?
I could fo into the helix direct from my phones headphone jack. Its the only other source I have.

Have you pulled them out, played them free air, on the same source? Playing them free air, and with a different source is changing 2 variables, instead of just one. Always try to only change one variable at a time. It's unlikely, but sometimes when a woofer is snugged down to the baffle there is a little flex in the basket if it's not snugged evenly, or if the baffle isn't perfectly flat, which can cause a tiny amount of coil rub. Playing them free air, but on the same source will help tell you if it's in fact the source, or distortion from the woofers caused by the install. From looking at the GB60 basket it's unlikely that you're flexing it enough to cause rub, but it's always a good thing to check, this can be a somewhat common problem with thinner stamped basket woofers.
Yes, I held them in my hand while still commexted to the truck and checked. Then moved them to another source.

I really wish car manufacturers would just leave the old school double din style radio holes and not build these elaborate integrated systems. I love aftermarket sources.
 

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The gb60 are fine. Pulled both this morning and played them free air on another source.
Excellent! However many variables that was at least you’ve definitively eliminated the drivers themselves as being faulty.
 

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So the noise is only in the midbass? If so next I would double check the install for simple problems (probably already done), then put a known good amp in place of the midbass amp and retest
 
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