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Hi,

This is Bill from Biketronics Inc. I have been reading this forum forever, just setup a free account to help with this thread. I will look into setting up an official sponsor account.

Removing the cutoff is not a big deal for us, we design and build everything but the Hypex modules in-house and it is just a value change on a couple of SMT parts. It is not really something I see doing in the field though unless someone is skilled at soldering tiny parts. 0603 caps and resisters.

Do you guys think the amp should be wide open or would a subsonic filter be a good idea? Those really low frequencies are just hard on parts and we already tend to blow a lot of speakers with our amps. I was thinking something around 20hz with a 12 db slope.

Our BT4180 is around 90% efficient.

We laser etch the amp box so we can do custom lid designs, we only have black lids though and the etched area is shades of silver/white. Simple designs can look pretty neat. Depending on the amp order this could be thrown in or done for very little cost.

I am not an engineer but will try to answer any questions you guys have, if I don't know the answer I will find out.

Bill
 

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Hi,

This is Bill from Biketronics Inc. I have been reading this forum forever, just setup a free account to help with this thread. I will look into setting up an official sponsor account.

Removing the cutoff is not a big deal for us, we design and build everything but the Hypex modules in-house and it is just a value change on a couple of SMT parts. It is not really something I see doing in the field though unless someone is skilled at soldering tiny parts. 0603 caps and resisters.

Do you guys think the amp should be wide open or would a subsonic filter be a good idea? Those really low frequencies are just hard on parts and we already tend to blow a lot of speakers with our amps. I was thinking something around 20hz with a 12 db slope.

Our BT4180 is around 90% efficient.

We laser etch the amp box so we can do custom lid designs, we only have black lids though and the etched area is shades of silver/white. Simple designs can look pretty neat. Depending on the amp order this could be thrown in or done for very little cost.

I am not an engineer but will try to answer any questions you guys have, if I don't know the answer I will find out.

Bill
Nice to have you here Bill. On the subsonic or not, I don't want a subsonic if it is anything over 20hz so your idea would work for me. I haven't had the chance to have a sit down in the car to critique my 4180 but so far so good. It has been impressive. Love the signatures on the back of the amp btw. Awesome idea!
 

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I believe having the amp wide open would be a better choice as that allows people to do whatever they want with them for their application instead of having any kind of limitations, I understand it's hard on parts and well if I blow my speakers for pushing them then that's my fault and not the amps fault for not having a filter. May I ask how many caps and resistors I would have to replace or even better remove the entire filter to make the amp wide open? I do precision soldering on instrument panels for boeing airplanes so soldering is almost second nature for me
 

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Awesome!!! Helen GA in late May Bill. Southeast Victory Rally. Big event. Good exposure. Give Arc a run for their money in the Vic market. :)
 

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I agree with wide open, then again the majority of people here on this forum are using some sort of dsp that they can use to limit the low end. I personally wouldn't want any filter, but that really only matters when using them for sub duty.

Personally, I would kill for some BT2400's. That would give one amp for my sub, one for midbasses, and a BT4180 for midrange and tweeters.
 

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From a warranty standpoint I would rather just take care of it for people that have amps and then send them out that way for new customers. I am sure some people (especially on this site) can handle it but I would be worried about people trying without the proper tools or training. It is also in a location that makes it really hard to get at once the boards are soldered together, much easier before our last step.

I believe it is 8 parts to change the filter point, removing the filter completely is harder and will involve jumper wires and lifting legs on a couple of ICs. We could move the filter down to something like 10hz though, maybe that could work for everyone.

Bill
 

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Thanks for joining the discussion Bill. I think most on this forum would prefer the subsonic filter removed, but there are some systems here that can dig really low. A 10hz might be an acceptable compromise. A lot of folks here pay attention to small high quality amps that produce good power.

Couple questions:
1. What amount of car audio sales would support Biketronics designing a 5 or 7 channel amp with a high(ish) power sub channel (500+ watts)?
2. Has Biketronics played with any Ncore modules?
 

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Again, thanks for joining us Mr Bill! Great to have you.

I agree that most of us here would prefer wide open signal and adjust at our dsp or what ever processor each guy is using. That is how id like to see them. Also, BT2400? :)
 

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Bill, great that you chimed in; your input is much appreciated. In regards to the filter, I'd personally be fine with crossing it at 20 Hz, or 10 Hz. Also, I totally agree with you about you guys doing the modifications in house. I don't see how you could offer a warranty otherwise.

Could you address a few points?

Wanted to confirm that there is no normalization done by BT amps, and that we can adjust the levels with an external DSP, since there are no gains on the amps. In other words, if I'm sending 2v to channels 1,2 and 3v to channels 3,4 the amp will not just make them all 2v or whatever.

Could you clarify the situation with wiring? Since the gauge is so small, would it be fine to just have a short run to a terminal strip, then thicker gauge for longer lengths to the speaker?

Are there any plans to incorporate the larger 400 or 700 modules, and sacrifice some size? Or would power supply be a limiting factor?

Thanks!
 

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Hi Guys,

1. What amount of car audio sales would support Biketronics designing a 5 or 7 channel amp with a high(ish) power sub channel (500+ watts)?
It is something we plan on doing, just have been so buried trying to keep up with Harley sales we have not gotten it done. First would be a 5 chan, our current power supply design in the 4180 would support that with almost no changes. 7 channel would be further out.

2. Has Biketronics played with any Ncore modules?
Mike, the owner and engineer here, is starting a guitar amp company and has been testing them. I have not played with them yet. See Vivid Amplifiers

3. Wanted to confirm that there is no normalization done by BT amps, and that we can adjust the levels with an external DSP, since there are no gains on the amps. In other words, if I'm sending 2v to channels 1,2 and 3v to channels 3,4 the amp will not just make them all 2v or whatever.
We do not have any auto-gain function, it is fixed and each channel is separate so you could have a different input and output level on all channels.

4. Could you clarify the situation with wiring? Since the gauge is so small, would it be fine to just have a short run to a terminal strip, then thicker gauge for longer lengths to the speaker?
Our connectors are geared toward how efficient our amps are and the short wiring used in a Harley setup, for a car that idea would work great. If/when we make a dedicated car amp I will go with "normal" screw terminals.

5. Are there any plans to incorporate the larger 400 or 700 modules, and sacrifice some size? Or would power supply be a limiting factor?
We have been testing a lot of higher powered modules (see # 2), fastest change for us would be to move to the 250 watt parts, they are almost a drop in for our current design. After that would be a mostly ground up product and take awhile. Personally I would love a 5 channel with the 5th being a 400 watt module. I think that would do it for a high percentage of people and the really nuts guys could use that and another 2 or 4 channel.

Bill
 

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I'm a little more power hungry. I would be more along the lines of a 4180 and a 2 channel consisting of a pair of 700 modules!! My tc lms stash like 700 more than 400
 

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Hi Bill, Thanks for taking the time to answer our questions. If bridging was enabled from the factory on the BT4180 how many watts of output would be available per channel in 4ohn load? Thanks
 

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Hi Bill, Thanks for taking the time to answer our questions. If bridging was enabled from the factory on the BT4180 how many watts of output would be available per channel in 4ohn load? Thanks
Check out the link I posted to diyaudio earlier in this thread, there is not much benefit to bridging the 180 modules because they are current limited. You're better off running at 2 ohms or graduating to 400 modules.
 

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Thanks Architect7 for meeting up and giving an audition in Seattle. Just replaced my gzpa ref 4xs with 4180,

Just listened for an hour without any tuning. It's damn clean. Seems unrealistic at times. In really happy with the initial impressions. Will be posting a review in around 20 days once I'm back home
 

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Thanks Architect7 for meeting up and giving an audition in Seattle. Just replaced my gzpa ref 4xs with 4180,

Just listened for an hour without any tuning. It's damn clean. Seems unrealistic at times. In really happy with the initial impressions. Will be posting a review in around 20 days once I'm back home
Should we assume "unrealistic" means too good to believe out of such a tiny little amp?
 

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Should we assume "unrealistic" means too good to believe out of such a tiny little amp?
Yeah. That's one way of putting it. Also the air around instrument which sometimes bloated the tone seem to have disappeared completely. Hence feeling a bit odd. Anyone else who has listened to these can check the same. I heard the same thing in Emet car as well
 
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