Hi @JimmyDee

Just finished reading your latest build thread.

Can I ask a couple of questions

1. Here in the UK the Helix SDMI25 is the cheapest option for MOST - Toslink. Is there any advantage (other than the built in DSP) to getting anything other than this? And am I correct that the SDMI25 only puts out 2 channels not 4?

2. If you had to start again and with a limited budget, what order would you prioritise the components? IE get the best and most expensive mid speakers but then maybe an all in one amp and DSP to save a bit of money there? Or make do with a semi decent component set (I currently have the Focal ES100K) but then spend more on Maybe the Helix DSP and separate amps (I currently have the Audison APF8.9 which is nice but the DSP software is terrible compared to the Helix (previously had the Up7BMW amp/DSP)

3. My car only had the S676A 'hifi' option which runs analogue speaker cables to the rear and into a small amp. I've tapped into those speaker cables to feed my DSP / AMP. I'm wanted to try the digital method though (just need to work out how to code my car to Harmon Kardon). Would you say going digital is a big upgrade? (presuming you have ever sampled a set up that is analogue fed

4. (sorry last one). You have ended up with some very nice, very high end speakers but have you also sampled some of the low end stuff? IE the Focal's I referenced earlier and even the Audison or Focal drop in 8".

Thank you and look forward to future updates / builds

 

@jedi-knight83 first things first... what year of Audi do you have? The SDMI25 only works up to model year 2015 (which had MOST 25).
Past that, Audi switched to MOST 150 for its newer models. You would need a Nav TV Zen-V unit for newer Audi's.

It's been MANY years since I've used lower quality speakers (way before I discovered DSP's)... so I can't really comment on them.

 

@jedi-knight83 first things first... what year of Audi do you have? The SDMI25 only works up to model year 2015 (which had MOST 25).
Past that, Audi switched to MOST 150 for its newer models. You would need a Nav TV Zen-V unit for newer Audi's.

It's been MANY years since I've used lower quality speakers (way before I discovered DSP's)... so I can't really comment on them.

F31 BMW actually.

 

.

 

Nice car. Maybe I missed it, but what year is your RS5 and did it come with the B&O system? Is there anything you're aware of that's less expensive than the Zen-V that allows for upgrading the speakers?

I have an RSQ8 with the B&O system and I'd like to add a sub to it. Thusfar I haven't seen ANYONE who's modded the RSQ8, so I'm not sure what I'm getting myself into.

Appreciate any insight. Cheers

 

Nice car. Maybe I missed it, but what year is your RS5 and did it come with the B&O system?

It's a 2021. Brand new last summer.
Yes, it came with the B&O system... total garbage.

Is there anything you're aware of that's less expensive than the Zen-V that allows for upgrading the speakers?

If you truly care about getting the best sound quality, then the Zen-V is the only option that is currently available for Audi.
Alternately, you could tap into the speaker outputs, and mess around with trying to make that sound good... trust me, it won't sound good.

I have an RSQ8 with the B&O system and I'd like to add a sub to it. Thusfar I haven't seen ANYONE who's modded the RSQ8, so I'm not sure what I'm getting myself into.

Audi is rather 'cookie-cutter' in their audio systems. The factory locations tend to be similar between most of their vehicles.
You don't need 16 speakers, or whatever your B&O system has... you'd be way better-off simplifying it down to:

• 3-way front stage
• rear fill in doors (optional)
• subwoofer.

If all you want to do is add a sub, then there's posts on Rennlist about guys tapping into the sub channel, and adding a hi-lo converter, amp, and a sub box.

But if you want to do a full system, and have it sound better than the stock B&O, then you need a Zen-V, a DSP, amplification, and new speakers.
Here's what I'd recommend, if you're concerned about budget:

NAV-TV - Interfacing the Future

<p>Enhance your driving experience with ZEN-V MOST-150 processor. Convert the MOST-150 audio bus to low level RCA and TOSLink outputs. Compatible with Audi, Bentley with MIB infotainment systems and Porsche with PCM4.0 - PCM5.2 infotainment systems.</p>. Car radio versions: AUDI MIB, MIB HS...

navtv.com

HELIX V EIGHT DSP MK2

8-channel amplifier with 10-channel DSP, 8-channel highlevel input & ACO platform

www.audiotec-fischer.de

Replacement speakers of your choice... and a powered subwoofer:

HELIX U 10A

Ultra-compact 10

www.audiotec-fischer.de

 

forgot to mention, this decoding is generally and very often done here for VAG cars so basically audi,vw,porsche,seat,skoda but moreso vw,seat,skoda is the main players who get this done

 

Very clean build. I hope to do something similar with the wife Q7 soon. Probably not quite as extensive but an upgrade over stock non the less. Its amazing that they keep putting such poor audio systems in higher end cars and trucks. Ours is a Premium Plus loaded and the audio is terrible.

 

OK... so I made a few modifications to the build. Replaced the Audison amps with a pair of Brax.
Original post (on page 1) has been updated to show the Brax installation.

 

how does it compare

 

I still have to do a bit of re-tuning and adjust the gains... Right now; the system is all tweeters! They're overpowering the mids and midbass.
I had to take my kid to hockey practice last night, so I didn't get a chance to do any adjustments after the install.

But one thing I did notice, is that; they are DEAD QUIET. I mean... creepily quiet.

I'll ding around with the gains this morning, and try to level match the speakers a bit.
I have a meeting with @AudioGal this weekend, to do a re-tune (she's a Master at tuning... I'm barely a Padawan).
I'll give a full update, once the system is re-tuned.

 

Beautiful ride! That must sound amazing.

 

Man it has to be nice to be near someone who’s willing to take great gear to the next level. I’m sure by the end of the weekend your system will truly shine.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

 

JimmyDee im asuming since you know AudioGal your in the Alberta region? If so be possible to get a demo later in the year?

Im just west of Edmonton

 

I'll send you a PM

 

Yes, the system is tuned... and it sounds PHENOMENAL!

I've got one Brax amp dedicated to the left channels, and the other Brax for the right channels.
(plus a Zapco mono amp driving my sub)
3-way front stage, plus rear fill on each Brax amp (left and right separated per amp).

FRONT STAGE:

• Audison Thesis Violino II - Tweeter
• Dynaudio Esotar 430 - Midrange
• Audio-Development W800NEO - 8" Midbass

REAR FILL:

• Sinfoni Tempo 10 Tweeter
• Dynaudio Esotar 650 Midrange
• Passive Crossover

The amps are absolute beasts. They drive all speakers effortlessly, and with complete precise control.
Honestly, I've never experienced anything like it.

Many of you know how often I swap amps, and try new things. I can't ever see myself trying anything else... they're that good.
Any build I do from now on, will have Brax amps. End of story.

 

brax is a fine amp, i bought some of the very first when they imported to the US, back in '95 or 96, the 1400 & 1000 i believe, great amps

 

This really amazing build. I have an 2019 RS5 and put in

Navtv Zen V
Mosconi 8-12 DSP pro
Mosconi 4/10 powering front miss and rear fill
Mosconi 5/30 powering front tweeters/front mid bass and sub
Focal K2 3 way components active in front
Focal flax in rear
Focal 25kx sub in BBox (sub is too deep for Basser box)

I agonized over tweeter placement but ended up putting them in A pillar bottom location

cheers

 

Did you gents go digital into the processors and if you did so, does the subwoofer level adjustment still work? In other words, am I forced to go analog out of the zen v if I want to use the on-screen sub adjustment.
And what happens to the park assist warnings when going digital? On the SB the warning tone comes from the front left a pillar lower tweeter and the rear right surround (c pillar). As I plan on setting up downmix on (zen v) for a front 2 ch, rear door 2 ch (fill) + sub, so no front/rear surrounds or center, what happens to the park assist tones?

thanks

 

Jix40
Yes digital toslink into processor from zen v from headunit most150 fiber connector. On 2019 the amp/processor on b&o is in driver side cubby in back so just remove and ad zen v.
Head unit still functions all work but I haven’t tried using tone controls. I set the equalization to house curve and like it for all the music I listen to.

All tones and phone still work but sometimes when music is loud (yes I like loud music) phone calls mute music then when rejected it jumps back to previous volume.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

I just got a 2021 S5 SB with B&O, I am trying to find some details on how to get to unit behind glove box while I wait for parts like the zen to arrive. When someone who obviously is pretty capable like you says its a "nightmare" that worries the hell out of me. I am confident I can install front three without issue (wiring through door gives me pause) but just how much of a "nightmare" is getting to that unit behind the glove box? Would it be worth taking to a high end install place to get to it or is it just time consuming? I did some digging on youtube and other forums and didn't see much detailed info. Any thoughts would be VERY much appreciated.

edit
Would it be the same method as if i were accessing behind the glove box in a 2018-2020? I saw you mentioned the unit was in the rear near the amp in previous years, but accessing the area should be the same as a 21, right?

 

When someone who obviously is pretty capable like you says its a "nightmare" that worries the hell out of me.

Nightmare might be a bit strong of a word... but it was definitely time consuming to remove the glove box in order to access the MIB unit.


I also see you had also PM'd me with a few questions, so i will answer them here (for other's benefit):

Remove glove box and then unhook the MIB to get access to hook up the MOST (male to male) cable to the Zen-v in the trunk, you said the 500cm version will get to the cubby on the driver side.

You want a single female to double male splitter - like this one:

7.65US $ 10% OFF|Free shipping MOST Optic Fiber Jumper Cable Multimedia Connectors 2 Female to 1 male For Audi BMW Benz Porsche Amplifier unit|Flex Cables| - AliExpress

Smarter Shopping, Better Living! Aliexpress.com

www.aliexpress.com

I originally ordered a 400cm MOST extension cable, and it got me back to the trunk... but only as far as the passenger side. I had to get another 300cm cable to bring it over to the driver's side cubby area. The extra 300cm was a bit longer than needed, but better than being too short. If you can find a 600cm cable, I suspect that would be perfect.

You said splitter is needed behind the head unit, is that the MIB? If so, I unplug the OEM MOST cable, connect that to one of the two female connections on the splitter, connect the extension MOST cable (going to the trunk) to the other female and then connect the male back into the back of the MIB. Is that correct?

Yes, the splitter attaches to the MIB (located behind the glove box). I called it the head unit... but it's the MIB unit. As mentioned above; you need a single female to two male splitter. Unplug at the MIB and put that into the female end of the splitter, Then plug one male end of splitter back into the MIB, and the other male end into the female end of your extension cable. Then the male end of the extension goes into your Zen-V.

Since I have essentially the same vehicle as you, the NAV-TV - Interfacing the Future Zen-v should work correct? The NAVtv site doesnt specify a device for the 2021+ RS5, S5, or A5 but if its working for you, it should be fine.

Yes, the Zen-V will work for your vehicle... but you need to order the kit with the OBD programming tool. The MIB needs to be re-programmed for optical audio output. The OBD tool does it flawlessly, but you can also reprogram it with a Vag-Com (if you have one).

The programming tool also allows you to re-set it back to factory settings, when you decide to rip the system out and sell the car.

You also need to set the Zen-V dip switches to a Porsche setting (as the new Audi MIB and Porsche are the same. If you set it to Audi, then it won't work (thanks to @SkizeR for that tip).

Here's a link to the kit with the OBD programming tool:

NAV-TV - Interfacing the Future

<p>Enhance your driving experience with ZEN-V MOST-150 processor. Convert the MOST-150 audio bus to low level RCA and TOSLink outputs. Compatible with 2020 and 2021 Audi vehicles with MIB3 amplified systems with MOST 150 connector at the MMI/Radio.</p>. Car radio versions: MIB3 with MOST 150...

navtv.com

 

There are a few guys on the Audi forums that have done lesser builds... but I found none that were at the same level as what i wanted to do. It was a lot of research, and some trial and error. I've also owned a few Audis and a few BMW's, so this isn't the first MOST vehicle I've done a build on. But the new MIB is different from the old MOST25 systems...

I'm glad I can help a fellow enthusiast.

I'll give credit where credit is due... I mentioned him in my post above, but @SkizeR threw me a few information bones. He's a wealth of knowledge, and he's done a lot of Porsche builds, so he was aware of some of the quirks with the new Audi / Porsche MIB.

 

I have some resonix barrier and blackhole tiles i'm itching to put to use, Nicks videos got me into car audio some years ago and I made sure to pay it forward when i can buy his stuff. I would be a lot poorer if I was closer to NY that's for sure. Anyway, I have a bunch of parts for my audi enroute from China, Europe, and Coral Springs... Pretty excited to start in a few weeks.

The biggest hurdle for me is not breaking clips and doing the install clean with no scratches etc. This is my first European car that I will be taking apart. Personally that is the most impressive thing (other than tuning) about good car audio installation shops, taking apart a "difficult" vehicle and putting it back together again without a hint of work. I have about 20 tabs saved from audizine, diy, youtube, audiworld, etc showing how people have removed Audi door panels, trunk, glovebox, dash, run wiring through door seal, etc etc. Last vehicle I did a good job but the mistakes i made on that journey were painful for me, broken clips, tabs, stripped screws, scratched A pillars, etc. Uhggg.

Again, thanks for the contribution to the community.

 

You'll find that new Audi's are fairly easy to take apart. They don't use cheap plastic clips to hold the door skins on. They have a series of steel posts that are welded onto the door, and the door skin has receptacles that these steel posts go into. You won't break any cheap clips on a new Audi... every new car should be designed this way.

 

Nothin like a factory service manual. Prevent one f**k up and it pays for itself. I watched lots of u tube for removing audi door panels and unfortunately there are still guys yanking on the bottom of the panel to get it off. Anyone can make a you tube video!!!

 

If your factory amp has a 38 pin connector get one of these. It makes thinks way easier. Specially when u put everything back to stock

 

If your factory amp has a 38 pin connector get one of these. It makes thinks way easier. Specially when u put everything back to stock

Been down this road... the connector you're referring to, doesn't work on the new Audi MIB3 units.
Totally different pinout configuration.

 

I wonder if bruce meranda is working on a new pinout. Hint hint. Cause his 38 pin adapter is a real game changer.

 

It's not his design... you can buy this pinout connector unit on Alibaba for 7 dollars...

 

S!!t

 

1. What did you use for remote in? I have done a fair bit of searching, other than tapping into the fusebox I didn't see any wires I could use in the trunk area. Might have to actually get the FSM and look it up.
2. Did you research any other subwoofers for that box or is the Hertz just a proven winner you happen to have lying around? I would rather buy once cry once for the 10" sub, we have just over 5" of depth to work with and 15 liters of volume (iirc).
3. Did you replace your front door speaker grills with the ASS (non B&O) or cut out the blocked portion of the existing?

Next week I have to take my s5 in to get the Navigation database on the MIB3 reinstalled, I carved out this weekend to start the install so hopefully this won't cause an issue with Audi since the issue is covered by warranty. https://static.nhtsa.gov/odi/tsbs/2021/MC-10189150-0001.pdf


I will be taking a reading on REW of the stock system, then also get DB's for non sport comfort mode before and after some sound treatment. I am not sure how crazy i will go, I'd rather not add too much weight.

 

What did you use for remote in? I have done a fair bit of searching, other than tapping into the fusebox I didn't see any wires I could use in the trunk area. Might have to actually get the FSM and look it up.

I'm not sure I fully understand the question, but let me tell you the chain for remote turn-on:
The Zen-V gets it's remote turn-on signal through the fiber optic MOST150 input.
From there; the Zen-V has a remote out wire to trigger the DSP.
The Helix DSP has a remote in and a remote out. Use them both. Do not turn on your amps directly from the Zen-V.

Did you research any other subwoofers for that box or is the Hertz just a proven winner you happen to have lying around? I would rather buy once cry once for the 10" sub, we have just over 5" of depth to work with and 15 liters of volume (iirc).

I just used a sub that I had lying around. The Hertz sub is definitely not optimal. Something like a JL 10TW3 would be optimal.

Did you replace your front door speaker grills with the ASS (non B&O) or cut out the blocked portion of the existing?

I tried to cut the B&O grilles, but it was turning into a mess. So I bought new ones. Just the standard (non B&O) grilles work perfectly. I think they were 80 bucks each new from the dealership.