[dkc7]

History
spent the summer doing my first dsp build. I was very pleased with the results even without a proper tune. That car was totalled Dec 21, 22.

Phase 1
Picked up my new ride a few days ago and had already decided to put in an inav big screen touch display with car play.

The unit came from 4x4shop.ca in Toronto. They sell them around the world. Everything is plug and play and they have several videos on installation and set up. I picked the unit up at their store on Saturday and was pleasantly surprised that they tested it out, updated the firmware before giving it to me. I installed it monday and was very straight forward.
The Q5 standard and premium sound system come with a plastic sub box in the spare tire. Like most audis the bass response is almost non existent.
Just like a year ago when I started my A6 build, I will start with the sub and sub amp. I will spend the cold months planning and start the rest in spring.
Im thinking the spare tire is a great place for a proper box and a shallow driver, hopefully an SI bm.

 

[JimmyDee]

The SQ5 is an awesome vehicle to do a system in... tons of potential.

Here's a couple threads on the one I had:

Audi SQ Build - wish I'd taken more pics

Hi Guys, I've had a number of people ask if I put together a build log for my system... and I've always responded; "no", mainly because I didn't take many pics while doing the work. In hindsight, it would've been nice to document the build, but I got so involved with it, that I didn't really...

www.diymobileaudio.com

Lost My Mind... MMATS Amplifiers and Audiofrog Speakers

So, I've spent the past few weeks (and thousands of dollars) doing a number of changes to my system... It all started on March 9th, when I saw the 20% off deal on eBay - so I bought a Helix DSP Pro MkII, for $648.00 I had no idea what I was going to do with the Helix, but I couldn't resist...

www.diymobileaudio.com

 

[dkc7]

Thanx JimmyDee
Mine doesnt have b&o. Still trying to figure out what to do. Cant just remove amp and hook up da1. The box in the rear wheel well looks like the radio and has Most running in and out along with an antenna. I guess I could use high out to audison ap f8.9. Any suggestions appreciated.
Oh, and I read your old posts before I even picked up the car. You are my go to Audi audio reference.

 

[TheTodd]

You could also pull the plastic tray out and probably fit a pair of slim 10s or possibly some “regular” 10s depending on how deep they are. Then use inside the wheel for amps or the other way ‘round.

Depending on whether your SQL is a D2 or D4 I may be interested in taking it off your hands… if you’re interested in selling.

Does that new touch screen work with the OEM controls too? I’m assuming as much since you said plug & play… I dig it. It looks like a nice size screen without being to big/gaudy.

 

[naiku]

Depending on whether your SQL is a D2 or D4 I may be interested in taking it off your hands… if you’re interested in selling.

I thought you had one already? Or looking for a second one?

 

[TheTodd]

I thought you had one already? Or looking for a second one?

Second… thinking about doing a pair IB through the ski pass and redoing the trunk.

 

[Racer71]

I have same car but with the concert system, I added a piggyback unit for CarPlay etc but I’m not super happy with it, you liking the unit pretty well? The one I added used stock screen etc and it’s got some drawbacks plus it still uses stock screen which is a bit small.

 

[dkc7]

todd, the inav is 10.25" they make a 12". when I got to the shop I decided that was too big. everything works with the touch screen or the mmi knob.
My sql is a d2. If i go with a bm I may not need my 1500.1 amp either that would make a nice package.

I have same car but with the concert system, I added a piggyback unit for CarPlay etc but I’m not super happy with it, you liking the unit pretty well? The one I added used stock screen etc and it’s got some drawbacks plus it still uses stock screen which is a bit small.

Ive only had the inav for 3 days and as an iphone user Im not that familiar with android. So Im still learning. When researching car play for my a6, car play units were $500 and the big screen replacements were $1000. I just picked up the inav for the equivalent of $400 usd. So it was a no brainer.
the big screen sits a bit higher and closer which is nice and when in split screen the nav is about the the same size as the small screen.
so, yes, Im very happy with it so far.

 

[dkc7]

Racer71, have done any audio upgrades.

 

[Racer71]

No it’s wife’s car so mostly just upgraded for functionality. There are so quirks with what uninstalled that we neither like, she’s android user I’m apple. Will look into the unit you installed.

 

[TheTodd]

My sql is a d2. If i go with a bm I may not need my 1500.1 amp either that would make a nice package.

I would need a D4 and am good on amps but thanks anyway.

 

[dkc7]

Starting to make decisions. will go 2 way active front. Since I cant hear above 11k hz, Ill use a wideband in/on the dash.
After drooling over vanguard and LBaudio sails and pillars, specially Rick Wilsons new stuff, I decided it was time to try it out. Im a real fan of stealth but am a fabricator at heart.
Thinking about unity 8s on axis on the dash where the oem speakers are but blended into the pillars. carbon fibre, black leather with red french seams that match the seats.
I replaced the left tweeter with a cdt es-02a to see how it sounds. I have no idea what the oem harmon kardon is sending it but I dont hear that im missing anything.
It still amazes me that the standard q5 system is significantly better than the a6 bose system.
since I have 2 channels left over may do some rear fill up high in the back.
starting a laminated bb ply round sub enclosure to replace the plastic spare tire sub box. Using an SI bm mk 4.
We have 2 feet of snow right now so I have 3 months to plan.
This time last year I had just joined diy and was planning my a6 build. I hope this doesnt become an annual trend, but it is fun.

 

[j4gates]

Hopping on for the journey.

 

[dkc7]

Hopping on for the journey.

Great, hope to see u in may

 

[dkc7]

SPARE TIRE SUB ENCLOSURE
I’ve been on hold with this cause I am doing a project for my wife. It was to be finished by christmas but I severely underestimated the time to apply crotch mahogany veneer. My next deadline, Valentines day. It was 98% ready by deadline. Lisa is an ICU nurse who looked after the sickest covid patients in the country. She took up paint by numbers and cross stitching in an attempt to keep sane. Early on she asked me if I could make her a cabinet to store her cross stitch floss. There are over 500 colors. One of the main suppliers makes a multi drawer box. So I used the dimensions to reproduce it but in my way. My philosophy is, if I am going to use my time to make anything I want to use the best materials I can find and add special touches. I had always wanted to try vacuum pressing for veneer so I ordered the supplies and some incredible veneer from veneer supplies.com. Then the boarder closed and I couldnt pick it up in NY for a year. Here it is.

CONSTRUCTION
I think the majority of spare tire or well sub encloseres are glass and resin with a wood baffle. I saw a utube of stacked 3/4 bb ply glued up to make a big cylinder. To me that produces a lot of waste. Then I considered carbon fibre. But I have never used the stuff for wet lay up. I concluded on 1/8 (3 ply) baltic birch laminations. I have used the technique several times for long and skate boards and furniture arms.

Then I read OCD66’s SPARE SUB BUILD. What an incredible project. I consider that now the gold standard for sub boxes. I will definitely be doing one of those.

I was originally going to make a jig and wrap the lamination around it. Then decided to cut out the outside diameter and use the tension from the the ply to push out to the mold.
I have been using a milwaukee m18 trim router for a couple years now and my circle cutters cant do a 17.5” circle, so make a new circle jig. I also picked up the plunge mechanism for the m18 so need a jig for that anyway.

sorry, photos loaded backwards.

Because 3 ply is well, 3 ply it is very flexible in one direction and fairly stiff the other. I took great pains to make sure I make my cuts in the right direction. I even marked flex and stiff. I need 57” lengths in flex direction. I also need 1.75” strips of rigid pieces for another project.
so long story short, when breaking up the 5x5 sheet for the table saw I cut the ply the wrong way. So now I have a 2’ and 3’ section of flex ply. And only one sheet of it. I bring up this forehead banging moment cause we all have them and another member may learn from it.
I decided I would use 2 pieces instead of one for each lamination. This means more clamps but it should be ok. I planned to stagger the joints anyway so now just have to stagger a bit more.

GLUE
titebond 2, why, thats what I had.

Because of my f!!k up I had to use alot of clamps so had to glue a ply wait half an hour and glue another ply.
The wheel is bigger diamer at the back than the hub I have to do the top of the enclosure then taper to smaller diameter toward the bottom.

top section is now 6 laminations, 18 plys or 3/4 inch. there is one ply that that continues the full depth and it needs a sh!t ton of clamps.

Like Norm (new yankee workshop) says, “you can never have too many clamps”.
Time for dinner should have the shell all glued up tonight and can start baffle and bottom tomorrow.

 

[TheTodd]

Looks great so far. And that is a LOT of clamps!

 

[dkc7]

Yep, my next one will be a no clamp CF layup

 

[dkc7]

Back at it.
Finished the shell, trimmed the ends on the table saw. Using the fence, slide the cylinder into the blade then rotate the cylinder. Kinda like a can opener. Extreme care is required to keep cylinder tight against the fence.

LESSONS LEARNED
using one piece of ply per lamination would have been easier and faster.

more glue is better than just enough glue

wrapping plys on the outside of the cylinder is better than the inside, so I should have made a cylinder mold of the inside diameter.

dry fit until lamination lengths are perfect

it is better if there is a slight gap in each lamination, other wise the layers will not be tight.
BOTTOM PLATE
because I went outside- in the inside diameter is not a perfect circle. Had I gone the other way the top and bottom plate would have been part of the mold and the laminations would have been glued and nailed directly to the plate

I have some gaps that I will likely fill with epoxy like you would use for splits in live edge lumber.

I need all the box volume I can get so I need a bump out for the wheel hub.

This would be where wet layup would be ideal. After viewing OCD66 carbon fibre box I thought about doing a hybrid where I used CF for this part. But all the cf fabric on amazon.ca is from china. And the other sources are USA or UK. So with shipping time and minimum quantities it was not feasible.
I started with a strip on the ID then laminated the rest on the outside of that.

the second photo is dry fitting to get perfect or close to it length. I will be using mdf to cap this bump.

I am still deciding whether to make the baffle removable. You can see several voids in the laminations, I will be pouring them with epoxy as well.

 

[mumbles]

Dang sir, you have some serious talent! I can only imagine how pleased your wife is with the cabinet, I love the way you kept the grain pattern!

 

[dkc7]

More progress today

Baffle

T nuts in bb ply then 2nd layer mdf.

Still deciding on permanent baffle or removable. May do cosmetic thin layer on top.