1. Brahma 2.6 Active component set. This set includes a Ti2 2" Titanium Mid / hi driver paired along with a Brahma 6W woofer made of a Magnesium/Aluminum Cone. These are in limited supply. Use coupon code "Intro Brahma" for 15% off.
2. AP 6.25PP mid bass woofers. These are a new and improved release of the old AR166 Ebony drivers. They are made of a Polypropylene cone which makes it a very smooth driver. It's also efficient at 89db per 1 watt. Easy to pair this with a low FS tweeter of your choice. Budget Friendly. Use coupon code "Intro Driver Series!!" for 25% off.
Also, there is a pair of RAM 2 A drivers floating around the US available for loan. They are on there way to Louisiana from Ohio. If anyone wants to get in line to try them, contact them at sales@slaacoustics.com
I wouldn't be put off by anything from AP, when I added them to my SR6500 set (80w), night and day difference. I did not run them at full range though. Somewhere around 400-2500. But, zero complaints.
Yeah too many people get hung up on power ratings without knowing how those ratings were determined. I have some large format Usher tweets that are rated for 10 watts fullrange but they're some of the most heavy duty tweets I've ever seen, and weigh more than some midbass drivers I've handled. Another thing, most people don't realize how little power they're actually using real world.
I'd love to try those Ebony replacements. The original H-Audio Ebony were some mean midbass drivers.
Someone had to say this.
I don't understand when people are saying that they're using 150w amp for their tweeters or mids. And 700w amp on high sensitive sq subs that need 150-300w at most
So, the 1way linear xmax of .5mm isn't an issue? This means crossing way higher than ideal imo. At least if I wanted to play them with a decent amount of volume.
Was looking at the ram3.
All for the sake of discussion.. but that doesn't seem right to me?
In a dedicated 3-way I took my Ram 2's down to 800hz with 75rms on each. Got plenty loud and they loved it. 800-5000 I think is what they were at there at the end. Had to open up the back of the 2" pvc ends in the dash and stuff with polyfil to get them to play cleanly that low though. Really, it's all about knowing what to listen for to tell if a speaker is in trouble.
Any new info regarding audible physics? Which lines are current production? Is there a website now with pricing ? Which lines are comparable to Audiofrog GB? Thanks in advance
I would really like to know aswell since i am currently researching for a new build, and money is burning a hole in my pocket right now. Also worried about is power ratings 10 watts?? Is there even an aftermarket amp nowadays that does that little of outtage? If any brand is comparable to af gb I would love to know.
So does anyone know how it is determined? Im pretty sure if a tweeter is rated at 10 watts is because thats where the company tested them and was probably getting close to distortion.
Ratings like this are typically measured "full range" with no crossover applied. This is typical with most "raw driver" brands. Power handling is increased as high pass filters are applied. (This is what you will usually see from car audio brands.)
As far as the tweeters are concerned, even with very low high pass filters (1.8-2.5 kHz) it is highly unlikely that the tweeters will ever see double digit power. This is a function of the content found in the frequencies that they play and their relative level compared to lower frequency content. Andy Wehmeyer has done some pretty easy to digest write ups on the subject if you care to search them out.
Ratings like this are typically measured "full range" with no crossover applied. This is typical with most "raw driver" brands. Power handling is increased as high pass filters are applied. (This is what you will usually see from car audio brands.)
As far as the tweeters are concerned, even with very low high pass filters (1.8-2.5 kHz) it is highly unlikely that the tweeters will ever see double digit power. This is a function of the content found in the frequencies that they play and their relative level compared to lower frequency content. Andy Wehmeyer has done some pretty easy to digest write ups on the subject if you care to search them out.
Regarding power ratings, how does that apply to widebands? I've seen widebands with a power ratings as low as 10 watts - but widebands can sometimes be used to play down to 300hz (or even lower). Surely, they use a lot more power than a tweeter that plays down to 3khz would?
The 2" widebands that I currently use and love are rated at 150 watts - if using a HPF of 300hz (they are actually spec'd using the 300hz HPF). They also have a freq response spec of 200hz - 33khz.
Just curious how much power they'd use compared to an actual tweeter.
Here are the specs of the wideband that I'm currently using:
Code:
Diaphragm: Aluminum
Surround: Rubber
Basket: Die cast
Magnet: Ring Neodymium
Impedance: 4 ohms
Sensitivity: 84.9 dB
Frequency response:200Hz-33kHz
Resonant frequency: 200Hz
Voice coil: 20.4mm Cooper
Power: HPF 300Hz 150Watt
Frame diameter: 2 14/16” (73mm)
Mounting hole: 2 ¼” (57mm)
Mounting depth: 1 ¼”(30mm)
Center to center diameter mounting screw holes: 2 10/16”
Diameter of screw holes:3/16”
Flange thickness: 1/8”
Regarding power ratings, how does that apply to widebands? I've seen widebands with a power ratings as low as 10 watts - but widebands can sometimes be used to play down to 300hz (or even lower). Surely, they use a lot more power than a tweeter that plays down to 3khz would?
The 2" widebands that I currently use and love are rated at 150 watts - if using a HPF of 300hz (they are actually spec'd using the 300hz HPF). They also have a freq response spec of 200hz - 33khz.
Just curious how much power they'd use compared to an actual tweeter.
Here are the specs of the wideband that I'm currently using:
Give them full 150 watts (turn the gain to the maximum) and post your results.
Just kidding... don't ever do this. This is pure craziness. They would play from 2x20-40w amp just fine. And do you think 2" wideband will play 300hz as they supposed to be? No.
Try and contact Tam. He is the distributor. Anything beyond the Avitar series is equal to greater than, In my opinion, than the entire GB line.
Power wise I have a Zapco AP 150.6 with two channels on my Ram 3’s and the other two bridged only my Ram 6’s.
Try and contact Tam. He is the distributor. Anything beyond the Avitar series is equal to greater than, In my opinion, than the entire GB line.
Power wise I have a Zapco AP 150.6 with two channels on my Ram 3’s and the other two bridged only my Ram 6’s.
If clean power is your fear look at Zimmerman’s BMW. There is a great video of the full rundown of the system and you will be on your toes to see the power he is putting to everything and just keeps winning. You control the power and distortion!
A AP 150.6 with two channels bridged on Audible Physics new NZ3’s play amazingly well to the 350 I have them going down to and I listen to a very wide variety of music. The Poly style drumming doesn’t miss a sound. The separation of sounds is still blowing my mind as things break in. I am very pleased wit Audible Physics customer service and all the way down to the awesome acrylic rings that comes with drivers for install! Thanks Tam!!
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