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I’m at the end of my tour and currently about to buy a car to replace my old 300 (go hit while I was here). It’ll either be a 300c 2017 or a 2012 cts (waiting on the dealer). My equipment that I discussed with a shop out in Ohio is as follows

Hertz Mille MLK165.3
Hertz Mille MPX165.3
AP4-CH41 (like the FIX86)
TWK 88
2 JL 12W6v3-D4
Hertz ML POWER 4 (4 channel amp)
JL RD1500/1 (mono block for 2 W6 subs)

I’m debating on doing the install myself to include sound dampening, rewiring. However I want a custom sealed box for the subs with a false wall with plexiglass and some lights as well as for the amps. I also would need it tuned. I should be purchasing this vehicle this week. So if there is a recommendation for a good shop that won’t charge me an arm and a leg I’d gladly pay them to do the entire thing. I have a quote right now for 2,270 for labor and tuning, and 4,422 for equipment totaling 6,692. Is this system good to go? Any recommendations for changes? I listen to a lot of gospel, hip hop, rap, rnb, classic soul
 

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first of all, if you mean tour as in military, thank you for your service to our country, as far as recommendations,sorry but I cant help you, hopefully somebody chimes in with more than what ive done
 

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first of all, if you mean tour as in military, thank you for your service to our country, as far as recommendations,sorry but I cant help you, hopefully somebody chimes in with more than what ive done
Yes I’m currently deployed. Thanks hope you have a great Christmas
 

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The problem I see is that you have a set of 3 way components listed, a DSP, and only a 4 channel amp. Most of the features in that DSP will go to waste since you'll be running the components with their passive crossovers. I think the equipment is good, but the plan needs work.

First, I would decide if you want to run active, or passive. Active setups have a lot more flexibility than passive setups. Secondly, do both cars that you're shopping for have a realistic way to mount a 3 way component set up front? Will you need custom pods built? Is that already factored into your quote?

What are your goals? Are you going for the best sound quality that you can get? If so, ditch the rear speakers completely. If that's just too hard for you to do, just keep the OEM speakers, spending money on rear speakers won't help you.

The TWK88 has 8 outputs, so you can run your 3-way front stage fully active and ditch the passive crossovers. You'll need a 6 channel amp, instead of a 4 channel amp though.

The equipment is good, but I think your plan could use some fine tuning.
 

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Discussion Starter #5 (Edited)
The problem I see is that you have a set of 3 way components listed, a DSP, and only a 4 channel amp. Most of the features in that DSP will go to waste since you'll be running the components with their passive crossovers. I think the equipment is good, but the plan needs work.

First, I would decide if you want to run active, or passive. Active setups have a lot more flexibility than passive setups. Secondly, do both cars that you're shopping for have a realistic way to mount a 3 way component set up front? Will you need custom pods built? Is that already factored into your quote?
The truck customizing is factored into the quote, the car for either wont need modded pods
What are your goals? Are you going for the best sound quality that you can get? If so, ditch the rear speakers completely. If that's just too hard for you to do, just keep the OEM speakers, spending money on rear speakers won't help you.
Yes I'm going for the best sound quality, I thought I needed the rear speakers?
The TWK88 has 8 outputs, so you can run your 3-way front stage fully active and ditch the passive crossovers. You'll need a 6 channel amp, instead of a 4 channel amp though.
Gonna be honest I have no idea about this part
The equipment is good, but I think your plan could use some fine tuning.
The equipment listed is what the guy recommended. So I was doing some reading and it seems like just having front components is the way to go. Active seems like a better option. Why would I need a 6 channel over a 5 channel though?
 

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The equipment listed is what the guy recommended. So I was doing some reading and it seems like just having front components is the way to go. Active seems like a better option. Why would I need a 6 channel over a 5 channel though?
Those Hertz speakers are a 3 way component set, right? That's 6 speakers right there, in order to run active you need a channel for each speaker. Then you need a channel for your subs.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Nooow that makes sense, kinda curious to how the guy was gonna run it like that now. Definitely need some help with this build now. I did find an amp by jlXD600/6v2 that could work
 

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Regarding bass.. I had an audiofrog GB12 hooked up to a JL RD1000 once at 2 ohm once. I wasn’t impressed with that amp at all. Sent it back. Those 12W6V3’s are set at 600 watt max RMS but a lot of people say they are underrated. I’d rather have just 1 with a solid 800watt amp. Even the JL HD750 if I was set on JL. Are you going ported or sealed? Sorry if you’ve already stated that
 

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Also I’m not sure how familiar you are with all of the amplifier brands but you may want to research and look into some other ones. MMATS, ARC Audio etc. wish I would’ve researched more a year ago before buying my bass amp
 

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I'm going sealed for the subs. I was originally planning on using there slash series amp I heard good things about it
 

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I'm going sealed for the subs. I was originally planning on using there slash series amp I heard good things about it
If you can afford it go slash. RD line has up to 1% distortion where the slash is like 0.05%. Plus the slash has the regulated power supply. Puts out the same wattage regardless of input voltage. 11-15 volts or so. Plus you can go 1.5-4 ohm and still hit the max rated wattage. RD series does none of those things. I think you can save some $ and still get that kind of power with a different brand though
 

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If you can afford it go slash. RD line has up to 1% distortion where the slash is like 0.05%. Plus the slash has the regulated power supply. Puts out the same wattage regardless of input voltage. 11-15 volts or so. Plus you can go 1.5-4 ohm and still hit the max rated wattage. RD series does none of those things. I think you can save some $ and still get that kind of power with a different brand though
Ya I can def get the slash that's what I originally told through guy I wanted. I actually had both amps as the slash series. I've only heard and used a good install set up with jl w6 with jl amps. The system was done really once. Couldn't really hear music outside the car, but man you felt the base. We were driving through a neighborhood in philly and set off every car alarm. Was the most awesome car audio experience I've ever had. An that's what I'm shooting for. Nice crisp impactful bass with excellent clarity throughout the music spectrum. What other amps would you recommend? At this point the only part of the build I'm deadset on are the jl w6's, the hertz mille series speakers. Other than that I'm pretty open to making changes.
 

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First, thank you for your service.

I have to agree with much of what gijoe stated. Which dealer have you been communicating with and where are you located when you're back home?

If you're near Columbus, it might be worth reaching out to Carbon Autosports (Erick Freeman). They are Audiofrog dealers and carry other reputable brands. (Not saying that Audiofrog is what you should run, but Andy's dealers are usually a fairly safe bet.) They should also both know how to put together a proper SQ system that meets your desires and budget. Even if that means they only provide product, perform only part of the installation and handle the tuning.
 

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We were driving through a neighborhood in philly and set off every car alarm. Was the most awesome car audio experience I've ever had. An that's what I'm shooting for.[/QUOTE]

Cancel the RD1500 for sure if this is your goal...
Like I said MMATS and Arc Audio sounds like they may be a better option or definitely worth looking into. Others may have useful recommendations
 

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If you can afford it go slash. RD line has up to 1% distortion where the slash is like 0.05%. Plus the slash has the regulated power supply. Puts out the same wattage regardless of input voltage. 11-15 volts or so. Plus you can go 1.5-4 ohm and still hit the max rated wattage. RD series does none of those things. I think you can save some $ and still get that kind of power with a different brand though
Luckily, we don't hear distortion very well at low frequencies, so if this is strictly for the sub amp, you shouldn't worry about it. At 40hz, we tolerate 100% distortion, The difference between 1% and 0.5% distortion won't make a bit of difference. Choose the amp based on other qualifications besides the distortion numbers.
 

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I'm going sealed for the subs. I was originally planning on using there slash series amp I heard good things about it
Get a Wolfram 2400 and save your money. You will be hard pressed to find a negative review about that amp.
Just because it costs more doesn't make it better and these 2400 series are the perfect example of that.
 

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Discussion Starter #18 (Edited)
Thanks for all the responses guys, the original place was Columbus car audio and accessories in ohio. Like I said I am looking for that exact sound again. @Karmajack how do you like that slash amp? I'll look at the others as well. I live just outside harrisburg pa. I'm closing the deal now on the car its a 2017 300c :) all white black interior super excitied.

Would the wolfgram 2400 be as good as the jl slash? Saving money is always great but if I have to spend more to get that sound I'm looking for so be it. Just not telling the lady how much I'm spending she would flip 😅
 

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Given your location, I would skip the Ohio shops all together. Talk to Nick Apicella at Apicella Auto Sound in Stony Point, NY. He can certainly get you sorted. He is active here on DIYMA as Skizer as well as various FB groups like Strictly Sound Quality. Finding examples of his work should be pretty easy.
 

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Given your location, I would skip the Ohio shops all together. Talk to Nick Apicella at Apicella Auto Sound in Stony Point, NY. He can certainly get you sorted. He is active here on DIYMA as Skizer as well as various FB groups like Strictly Sound Quality. Finding examples of his work should be pretty easy.
I'm working with Skizer now waiting to see what he has in mind
 
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