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Discussion Starter #1
Seeking guidance on setting up my AudioControl 6XS crossover for a 2-way active system in my ‘99 Corvette coupe.

Head unit: Alpine iDA-X305
EQ: AudioControl Three.2
Crossover: AudioControl 6XS (not in use until resistor modules are sorted)
Amp 1: Kenwood XR-4S 4-channel
Amp 2: Soundstream PCX-1000D mono
Door speakers: JL Audio XR650-CSi 6.5” components
Sub: PolkAudio SR-124 12"

Current setup: HU’s front channels feed the EQ. The EQ front/rear outputs are high-passed at 90Hz and feed the Kenwood 4-channel with it's crossovers bypassed. The outputs feed the JL passive crossover inputs in a bi-wire/bi-amp setup. The EQ’s sub output feeds the the SoundStream amp to the sub.

The Kenwood XR-4S crossovers are unsuitable for a 2-way active setup since the low range is 50-250Hz and the high range is 2.5-10kHz.

I got the AudioControl 6XS to go active, but I found out after it arrived that the adjustment knobs for each output channel are gain controls, not as I had assumed for frequency adjustment. To adjust frequencies, you have to get under the hood and swap out resistor modules. :eek:

If I’m understanding the block diagram of the somewhat cryptic instruction manual correctly with its oversimplified examples, I have to change out the Front HP resistor module which sets the crossover frequency for the Front HP and LP output channels to suit my setup needs. By its out-of-the-box default modules, the Front HP outputs 250Hz and up and the Front LP outputs 90 to 250Hz. Both of these outputs are useless since the HP is too low for tweeters and the LP is too low for the woofers since it cuts off all the midrange.

This page at Speakerbuilder.net suggested a crossover range of 2000-2300Hz for the woofer. One of the resistor DIP modules I plan on ordering is 2.7kOhm, which results in 2667Hz (7200/Frequency = resistor value). Individual resistors inserted into an IC socket would also work fine but I prefer the dual inline package resistor array. The other one I planned on trying is this 2.2kOhm module for 3273Hz. They're only $0.60 each, so I might as well try a few samples. Much cheaper than the multi-pack that goes for $120... what a rip-off.

I’ve searched extensively for clear examples of how this has been done before, but I’ve only come sorta close. Is my understanding of the 6XS crossover module selection for the front output channels correct? Is the frequency range I'm considering about right?

Thanks!
 

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While the speakerbuilder page suggests a range of 2k-2.3k, that is pretty low for most tweeters, with a few exceptions. When picking a crossover point the first thing I usually do is take a look at the factory settings. The JL set you have is a bit difficult to find info on, but This page gives us some good info straight from JL's resident expert Manville Smith:

caraudioforum post said:
McDizzle said:
Stage height? That would explain whi I don't understand his answer...

"That lowpass is at 6dB at 2.2KHz, 3.6KHz, 13KHz"

.....


Strange, can anyone explain this better for me?
Stage... guess that means I should put it on low because they are in the factory door location?
The midrange presence control does, in fact, affect the low-pass cutoff frequency. At its middle position, the low-pass and high-pass meet for a linear transition in a lab measurement. The "low" position crosses the mid over lower to create a depression in the upper midrange response (useful for taming an overly aggressive in-car midrange response). The "high" position crosses the mid over higher and allows it to overlap the tweeter's range for more aggressive upper midrange output. "low" or "reference" usually are the best in-car, but you have to experiment in your installation to see which setting best meets your needs.

Hope that helps.

Manville Smith
JL Audio, Inc.
This means right off the bat you can both bi-amp your speakers and experiment with some different cross over points without using an external cross over. Additionally, we now know that the factory cut off point for the tweeter is 3.6KHz, which means you have a fair bit of adjustment just using your XR-4S if you decide to go fully active.

Since you have a fair bit of capability already, I say try the system for a while without the 6XS and see how you like it.

Also, since I'm not certain of your experience running fully active, be sure to put a capacitor inline with your + wire on the tweeter. This will prevent it from being damaged in the event that noise or equipment issues send low frequencies out to the tweeter. I use these. Based upon this chart they will take effect at about 800hz. This puts it at least a full octave below your pass band, so they should have minimal to no impact on the sound, but will ensure the tweeters keep the magic smoke in.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
we now know that the factory cut off point for the tweeter is 3.6KHz
This is what I had difficulty finding, but it's certainly within the suggested range of what I was guessing at. Far better to know vs guess however.

you have a fair bit of adjustment just using your XR-4S if you decide to go fully active.

Since you have a fair bit of capability already, I say try the system for a while without the 6XS and see how you like it.
The XR-4S high range provides for the tweeter's freq range just fine and I have run it actively before. It sounds more lively than full range through the passive crossover as I have it set up now on a trial basis. I think my next move is to wire only the tweeters actively and leave the woofers on the passive crossover and try the various midrange presence options to help base my 6XS resistor module selection.

be sure to put a capacitor inline with your + wire on the tweeter. This will prevent it from being damaged in the event that noise or equipment issues send low frequencies out to the tweeter. I use these. Based upon this chart they will take effect at about 800hz. This puts it at least a full octave below your pass band, so they should have minimal to no impact on the sound, but will ensure the tweeters keep the magic smoke in.
I will add a set to my next PE order.

Your post addressed a great deal of my questions- thank you. I intend to make this fully active once I get the 6XS dialed in properly. An active setup makes too much good sense not to. I'm fairly confident i have the 6XS figured out, but i would still like some confirmation from someone with experience setting one up. I will be looking to upgrade to a 3-way setup down the road.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
My Digi-Key order arrived today with a nice range of resistor modules to try out. I installed the 2.2kOhm module for the Front Highpass, which sets the front crossover at about 3200Hz. I also changed out the 213kOhm 33Hz lowpass sub channel module for a 330kOhm 22Hz unit. So far so good to my ear and now the system is fully active with the amplifiers' crossovers bypassed.

Each of these resistor modules cost less than $1 each. They can be ordered from quite a few different places- you just have to know the nomenclature and apply the filters to find what you want. For Digi-Key, it breaks down like this:

Electronic Components Distributor | DigiKey Corp. | US Home Page

-Product Index-
scroll down to the Resistors category
-Networks, Arrays

You'll see a series of filters at this point.
Circuit Type: Isolated
Number of Resistors: 8
Number of Pins: 16
Mounting Type: Through Hole
Package/Case: 16-DIP

For the sake of convenience, tick the In stock checkbox and hit -Apply Filters-. You can then either use the Resistance filter to find the one you want or sort the existing list by resistance by clicking on the blue arrows and scrolling around. Pay attention to the minimum order since at most you'll probably only want 2 or so of each rather than 1,000. The 6XS uses 8-resistor 16-pin modules for high pass and 7-resistor 14-pin modules for low pass. The 7-resistor modules are available, but resistance options are fewer. Just get the 8-resistor modules and they will fit but the last two pins will simply not insert into the pin socket- there are no side effects.

The 2.2kOhm module I ordered was this one:
Digi-Key - MDP2.2KF-ND (Manufacturer - MDP16032K20GE04)

Hoping this is useful for someone else trying to figure out how to dial in their AudioControl crossover.
 

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Good info, glad you came back to update. The info here should be pretty similar for any of the old school crossovers that also use the resistor chips (like the adcom line driver for instance.

Glad you have everything sounding good.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
I just discovered I blew a tweeter from when I initially hooked up the 6XS prior to understanding how to dial it in and the front HP was set to 250Hz. The right tweeter took the joke but the left one... not so much. At least I learned the lesson on a cheap-ish set.
 

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I just discovered I blew a tweeter from when I initially hooked up the 6XS prior to understanding how to dial it in and the front HP was set to 250Hz. The right tweeter took the joke but the left one... not so much. At least I learned the lesson on a cheap-ish set.
Yup, that's why the caps are a MUST. I took mine out when I swapped tweeters and figured I would get them back in before I messed around again. Then, I decided to re-calibrate my MS8. After I watched the smoke pour out of my odd ball XT25 I put the caps back in the next day. Fifty dollar lesson :disappointed:
 

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My Digi-Key order arrived today with a nice range of resistor modules to try out. I installed the 2.2kOhm module for the Front Highpass, which sets the front crossover at about 3200Hz. I also changed out the 213kOhm 33Hz lowpass sub channel module for a 330kOhm 22Hz unit. So far so good to my ear and now the system is fully active with the amplifiers' crossovers bypassed.

Each of these resistor modules cost less than $1 each. They can be ordered from quite a few different places- you just have to know the nomenclature and apply the filters to find what you want. For Digi-Key, it breaks down like this:

Electronic Components Distributor | DigiKey Corp. | US Home Page

-Product Index-
scroll down to the Resistors category
-Networks, Arrays

You'll see a series of filters at this point.
Circuit Type: Isolated
Number of Resistors: 8
Number of Pins: 16
Mounting Type: Through Hole
Package/Case: 16-DIP

For the sake of convenience, tick the In stock checkbox and hit -Apply Filters-. You can then either use the Resistance filter to find the one you want or sort the existing list by resistance by clicking on the blue arrows and scrolling around. Pay attention to the minimum order since at most you'll probably only want 2 or so of each rather than 1,000. The 6XS uses 8-resistor 16-pin modules for high pass and 7-resistor 14-pin modules for low pass. The 7-resistor modules are available, but resistance options are fewer. Just get the 8-resistor modules and they will fit but the last two pins will simply not insert into the pin socket- there are no side effects.

The 2.2kOhm module I ordered was this one:
Digi-Key - MDP2.2KF-ND (Manufacturer - MDP16032K20GE04)

Hoping this is useful for someone else trying to figure out how to dial in their AudioControl crossover.

This info has helped me out alot. I orded a bunch of resistors for my 6xs. Thanks for doing the legwork.
 

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This info has helped me out alot. I orded a bunch of resistors for my 6xs. Thanks for doing the legwork.
Awesome info. I ordered my 2.2 resister after reading these and finally bought the 6XS and it arrived today. I need to know if I need any other resisters because I've only replaced the front Hp. So now i guess my points are 90-250Hz, 250Hz and up, and whatever the new resister points are. Am I understanding this correctly?
 

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Another thing, I am using this with a clarion Eqs746 so should i just use all three sets of rca's from the eq to the 6xs? And what about the freq btween the LP (30-90) and the HP (3200HZ and up)?
 

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Discussion Starter #11
The sub and front LP are technically bandpass outputs, of which the lower and upper crossover points can be totally customized.

Awesome info. I ordered my 2.2 resister after reading these and finally bought the 6XS and it arrived today. I need to know if I need any other resisters because I've only replaced the front Hp. So now i guess my points are 90-250Hz, 250Hz and up, and whatever the new resister points are. Am I understanding this correctly?
A 2.2kOhm resistor module in the Front HP socket will give you a crossover point of 3.4kHz between the Front Low Pass and Front High Pass outputs. If the other modules remain unchanged, your ranges will be as follows:

Sub: 30-90Hz
Rear HP: 250Hz and up
Front LP: 90Hz-3.4kHz
Front HP: 3.4kHz and up

If you want to do time alignment and drive the woofers/tweeters separately, change out the Rear HP module with another 2.2kOhm module and use this channel for tweeters instead of Front HP.

For a 3-way setup, use the following channel arrangement:
Sub: MidBass 90-250Hz
Front LP: Mids 250-3.3kHz
Rear HP: Tweets: 3.3kHz and up
Front HP: (not used)

Four of the modules must be changed:

Sub: 28kOhm
Sub PFM: 80kOhm
Rear HP: 2.2kOhm
Front LP: 2.2kOhm

If you don't care about driving the mids/tweets from a separate source for time alignment or for whatever odd reason you want rear fill, leave the 90Hz module in the Rear HP socket and run the tweets from the Front HP output.

Based on recommendations, I used a 50uF capacitor for my tweeters.
50uF 100V Non-Polarized Capacitor 027-354

It works fine and does not color the sound, so far as I can tell. Anyone have more on this? Does it affect phase?

Here's how I think the block diagram should look in the manual:
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Another thing, I am using this with a clarion Eqs746 so should i just use all three sets of rca's from the eq to the 6xs?
If you are not running rear-fill, and friends don't let friends do this anyways, then just run 2 sets- Front and Sub channels.

And what about the freq btween the LP (30-90) and the HP (3200HZ and up)?
Did I answer this in my previous post? Otherwise I'm not sure what you're asking.
 

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My Digi-Key order arrived today with a nice range of resistor modules to try out. I installed the 2.2kOhm module for the Front Highpass, which sets the front crossover at about 3200Hz. I also changed out the 213kOhm 33Hz lowpass sub channel module for a 330kOhm 22Hz unit. So far so good to my ear and now the system is fully active with the amplifiers' crossovers bypassed.

Each of these resistor modules cost less than $1 each. They can be ordered from quite a few different places- you just have to know the nomenclature and apply the filters to find what you want. For Digi-Key, it breaks down like this:

Electronic Components Distributor | DigiKey Corp. | US Home Page

-Product Index-
scroll down to the Resistors category
-Networks, Arrays

You'll see a series of filters at this point.
Circuit Type: Isolated
Number of Resistors: 8
Number of Pins: 16
Mounting Type: Through Hole
Package/Case: 16-DIP

For the sake of convenience, tick the In stock checkbox and hit -Apply Filters-. You can then either use the Resistance filter to find the one you want or sort the existing list by resistance by clicking on the blue arrows and scrolling around. Pay attention to the minimum order since at most you'll probably only want 2 or so of each rather than 1,000. The 6XS uses 8-resistor 16-pin modules for high pass and 7-resistor 14-pin modules for low pass. The 7-resistor modules are available, but resistance options are fewer. Just get the 8-resistor modules and they will fit but the last two pins will simply not insert into the pin socket- there are no side effects.

The 2.2kOhm module I ordered was this one:
Digi-Key - MDP2.2KF-ND (Manufacturer - MDP16032K20GE04)

Hoping this is useful for someone else trying to figure out how to dial in their AudioControl crossover.

Thank you ever so much, I too have ordered some resistors for my 6XS
 

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Discussion Starter #14
You are very welcome- glad to pay forward a little. I have learned a great deal using information on this forum and made a few friends in the process.

I have upgraded to an Audison Bit One DSP. Previously, the only EQ I had going was the 2-band parametric settings in my Alpine HU. The Bit One does EQ, time alignment, phase, and crossover. It also comes with a steep learning curve.

My 6XS is no longer needed along with all the extra freq modules that I ordered. I would like to find a new home for it soon.
 

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You are very welcome- glad to pay forward a little. I have learned a great deal using information on this forum and made a few friends in the process.

I have upgraded to an Audison Bit One DSP. Previously, the only EQ I had going was the 2-band parametric settings in my Alpine HU. The Bit One does EQ, time alignment, phase, and crossover. It also comes with a steep learning curve.

My 6XS is no longer needed along with all the extra freq modules that I ordered. I would like to find a new home for it soon.
Currently this is my setup for now, but soon I'll upgrade...

Pioneer DEH-P8400BH CD RDS Receiver
AudioControl FOUR.1i In-Dash Equalizer and Pre-Amp Line Driver
AudioControl The EPICENTER Concert Series Bass Maximizer
AudioControl 6XS Concert Series Six Channel Electronic Crossover
Hifonics ZEUS ZRX1200.2 Full Range 2-Channel stereo Ampliflier
PowerAcoustik GOTHIC GT4-2600 Full Range 4-Channel stereo Ampliflier
Hifonics BRUTUS BRX2400.1D Low Pass Mono Amplifier

FaitalPRO 10PR300 10" Professional Loudspeakers (2)
PowerAcoustiK MID-65 6" Pro Audio Speaker (4)
PowerAcoustik NX-6 Horn Loaded Tweeter (2)
PowerAcoustik NB-4 1" Piezo Tweeter (2)
PowerAcoustik NB-1 1" Piezo Tweeter (2)
T3 Audio T.2000-15d 15" Subwoofer (1)

ACDelco S85D26L Maintenance Free Battery
700 CCA / 80 [email protected] / 130 Reserve Capacity
 

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The sub and front LP are technically bandpass outputs, of which the lower and upper crossover points can be totally customized.


A 2.2kOhm resistor module in the Front HP socket will give you a crossover point of 3.4kHz between the Front Low Pass and Front High Pass outputs. If the other modules remain unchanged, your ranges will be as follows:

Sub: 30-90Hz
Rear HP: 250Hz and up
Front LP: 90Hz-3.4kHz
Front HP: 3.4kHz and up

If you want to do time alignment and drive the woofers/tweeters separately, change out the Rear HP module with another 2.2kOhm module and use this channel for tweeters instead of Front HP.

For a 3-way setup, use the following channel arrangement:
Sub: MidBass 90-250Hz
Front LP: Mids 250-3.3kHz
Rear HP: Tweets: 3.3kHz and up
Front HP: (not used)

Four of the modules must be changed:

Sub: 28kOhm
Sub PFM: 80kOhm
Rear HP: 2.2kOhm
Front LP: 2.2kOhm

If you don't care about driving the mids/tweets from a separate source for time alignment or for whatever odd reason you want rear fill, leave the 90Hz module in the Rear HP socket and run the tweets from the Front HP output.

Based on recommendations, I used a 50uF capacitor for my tweeters.
50uF 100V Non-Polarized Capacitor 027-354

It works fine and does not color the sound, so far as I can tell. Anyone have more on this? Does it affect phase?

Here's how I think the block diagram should look in the manual:
Hey Guys, sorry to rehash an old thread but I am getting ready to use a 6XS like described in the first part of this post.

Sub LP: 30-90Hz
Rear HP: (Tweets for time correction purposes) - 3.4kHz
Front LP: 90Hz-3.4kHz

In this setup, the Front HP output of the 6XS would not be used, correct?
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Hey Guys, sorry to rehash an old thread but I am getting ready to use a 6XS like described in the first part of this post.

Sub LP: 30-90Hz
Rear HP: (Tweets for time correction purposes) - 3.4kHz
Front LP: 90Hz-3.4kHz

In this setup, the Front HP output of the 6XS would not be used, correct?
Correct. The only "drawback" is having to use 2 of the same frequency modules, but time alignment is totally worth it.
 

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Agreed! I have always loved time alignment, but I don't think I have ever used it on a fully active setup so I'm pretty pumped.

Do you definitely think I need the inline resistor if I have the correct frequency modules?
 

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The sub and front LP are technically bandpass outputs, of which the lower and upper crossover points can be totally customized.


A 2.2kOhm resistor module in the Front HP socket will give you a crossover point of 3.4kHz between the Front Low Pass and Front High Pass outputs. If the other modules remain unchanged, your ranges will be as follows:

Sub: 30-90Hz
Rear HP: 250Hz and up
Front LP: 90Hz-3.4kHz
Front HP: 3.4kHz and up

If you want to do time alignment and drive the woofers/tweeters separately, change out the Rear HP module with another 2.2kOhm module and use this channel for tweeters instead of Front HP.

For a 3-way setup, use the following channel arrangement:
Sub: MidBass 90-250Hz
Front LP: Mids 250-3.3kHz
Rear HP: Tweets: 3.3kHz and up
Front HP: (not used)

Four of the modules must be changed:

Sub: 28kOhm
Sub PFM: 80kOhm
Rear HP: 2.2kOhm
Front LP: 2.2kOhm

If you don't care about driving the mids/tweets from a separate source for time alignment or for whatever odd reason you want rear fill, leave the 90Hz module in the Rear HP socket and run the tweets from the Front HP output.

Based on recommendations, I used a 50uF capacitor for my tweeters.
50uF 100V Non-Polarized Capacitor 027-354

It works fine and does not color the sound, so far as I can tell. Anyone have more on this? Does it affect phase?

Here's how I think the block diagram should look in the manual:
hey I am a newby so sorry for my late question. Can you share your speaker setup for your system? and are you running subs because you have midbass at sub output
 

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Discussion Starter #20
hey I am a newby so sorry for my late question. Can you share your speaker setup for your system? and are you running subs because you have midbass at sub output
At the time I posted this, my setup was an active 2-way front stage and a sub. No time alignment, no EQ. Probably not much better vs. using passive crossovers.

The 6XS is a good quality 3-way crossover with adjustable output levels, nothing more. Audio Control likes to label things in curious ways which made it more difficult (at least for me) to understand how to set it up. Despite the inconvenient means of adjusting the crossover frequencies (swapping resistor modules), it's a good unit to use on a tight budget if you want an active setup until you get a DSP. Some high-end head units can do DSP functions, but with far more limitations.

My 6XS is sitting on a shelf since about a year ago. If you want it and all the resistor modules I ordered for it, I'll make you a good deal.
 
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