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Discussion Starter #81
Alpha (same as on the board) does make a 10K pot with the same footprint but two tabs off the back of the body for on/off, so it clicks on rotation and I could wire from those tabs to the board.

Also, Mouser does have stock of the push/pull 10K in non solder pins, but lugs. From the datasheet, just the front three are lugs, the switch is still pins. If that's the case I'm 100% sure I can adapt it to work.

The only issue is when you are selling them on Ebay, I want to be able to just say, this is a direct and exact replacement. Explaining how its almost the same and operates the same is harder to do than it is here where everyone understands how it works.

I does look like I may be able to get more going, we'll see. I spammed a ton of people in China, Korea and Taiwan and I actually have some responses today, and may be able to get the original. But if not Mouser is going to give me a sample of the lug version.
 

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Alpha (same as on the board) does make a 10K pot with the same footprint but two tabs off the back of the body for on/off, so it clicks on rotation and I could wire from those tabs to the board.

Also, Mouser does have stock of the push/pull 10K in non solder pins, but lugs. From the datasheet, just the front three are lugs, the switch is still pins. If that's the case I'm 100% sure I can adapt it to work.

The only issue is when you are selling them on Ebay, I want to be able to just say, this is a direct and exact replacement. Explaining how its almost the same and operates the same is harder to do than it is here where everyone understands how it works.

I does look like I may be able to get more going, we'll see. I spammed a ton of people in China, Korea and Taiwan and I actually have some responses today, and may be able to get the original. But if not Mouser is going to give me a sample of the lug version.

Yep just check the data sheet as the pins are much larger on the lug pins. I can take pics of the one I have here with me....if you need clear pics just let me know.
 

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Discussion Starter #83
If you can send a pic of that, it would get the ball rolling. I can grind down the pins to fit ( if its just the front three ).
 

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Hope these help, let me know if you need dimensions from any other angle.
 

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Discussion Starter #85
Do you have a picture of it just from the front quarter. It looks like the legs come out the front of that PCB and bend under, that would be the only issue I see.
 

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Do you have a picture of it just from the front quarter. It looks like the legs come out the front of that PCB and bend under, that would be the only issue I see.


They are bent, but am sure you could bend them straight (perpendicular) to the mounting axis.
 

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Discussion Starter #87
The only difference is the pin version comes straight down out of the rear of the pot board, where these come down the front. So to get it to sit flat down I think I'd have to cut the pins right off and just solder new ones on the rear.
 

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You can see that from the center of the outer switch pin to the front pot pins its exactly 20mm so if that's the same with your layout than it should work with a little dremel'ing.

Also if your boards have space (no traces in front of the pot's pins) then you can drill new via holes and add a little solder wick to the original via holes.


I also notice how your switch/pot is a dual gang but it appears that the front pins are not in circuit? If this is the case then why not use those and add jumpers?
 

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Discussion Starter #89
Got the remote. It will work, but will be alot more work to alter than I had thought. I didn't see from the photos that the rear 6 pins were also lugs, so they don't just fit the board. So I'm looking at 10-15mins per pot to modify the pins I think. We'll see, but it did arrive, thanks!
 

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Discussion Starter #91
No problem. That was the first time I shipped anything untracked and let me tell you it took a little longer then I thought it would and created some nervousness about when the things were actually going to show up.
 

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not to sound stupid but, fill me in guys, whats the jump on the esp-3? people still use them? ive got an esp-2 and an esp-3 sitting on the shelf collecting dust
 

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Discussion Starter #93
Well I finally got around to trying Tricky's pot. Not too much modification required, but was a bit more of a pain. Will work fine, so I'm going to make the final 16 I have boards for. I've had a few contacts on Ebay wondering if I'll be making more, so I think I'll be able to sell them.

Of course the knobs I used are now on order from Mouser, with 13-14 week leadtimes. So now I get to search for those.

 

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Discussion Starter #94
The last 19 I can build. All the PCB's are used up now. What a shit ton of work to modify all those push/pull pots. But, it feels good to have built this and extend the life of some of these old processors for people. I'm keeping 2 for myself for now to go with my ESP-3, but in the end I may only keep one remote.

 

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Ryan, that is AMAZING work..honestly, I hope that you decide to sell these for substantially more then you did the last ones which simply were a steal!!!

Also, kinda proud that in my own small way I helped you get started with this project, and hope that you dont reget it…LOL
 

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Discussion Starter #96
You were a big help, along with Tricky and others. I'm asking a bit more for sure this time around, mostly to cover the Ebay fees which I had forgotten about, and because shipping with tracking is more and last time without it was nerve racking. If anyone wants one here PM me. I can take them out of that auction.
 

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The unit is quite heavy for it's size and appears very well made (made in US). It outputs a very clean signal to the amp. It also outputs a "remote" signal to switch on the amp.
 

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Hello ryannken, just stumbled upon your thread here. I have an Audio Control ESP-3. Unfortunately was too late getting those pics for you. Luckily I have the remote still. These processors work awesome. Certain audio recordings have hidden subliminal tracks that are decoded by this special processor. Take note about the led used in the remote. I have tried to use a high brightness type and found the processor operated differently. Meaning didn't sound as good with respects to the spacial restoration effect. I had to go back to the led my unit came with. The current drain was too much I assume. Another very important note is all Audio Controll units of this era must have the user take special attention to not use your fingers to adjust the levels. DO Not Push hard, use flat blade screwdriver! The reason is the potentiometer design. The shape of the wiper will wear off (grind) the trace of the potentiometers board if pushed hard enough. I know it's too inviting to use your finger to quickly make an adjustment. Dont, you are slowly destroying that potentiometer. I repaired an EQX that 22 of the 32 pots were nonfunctioning! All had ground off traces. Lastly I have tried you link for the ESP-3 MANUAL and it no longer exists there, has expired. Can I get a copy from you. I purchased mine from a friend and didn't get it. I remember reading it and the technology of how the ESP-3 worked using +L -R analog signals. It was quite the write up. Anyways I would like a copy. Thanks
 

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Hi Steve. Yes I do need a copy of the owners manual for the Audio Control ESP-3. Mine has been uninstalled for the last 10 years. Since then today's mp3 format is a question I've been asking myself as to the sound quality compared to a CD. How well does the imagery appear, is there a loss of those +L and -R signal phase inversions that allow the processor to decode and create that spatial environment. Compressed mp3 is my biggest curiosity.
 
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