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AF GB60 is known to have some of the most midbass of any 6.5 on the market. I’m not saying the absolute most but I’m not sure what would have more.

Or are you asking for the most midbass in a 6.5” speaker that doesn’t cost over $300? $500?
I’m looking at the GS series. Just need a 6x9 and a tweeter combo. I haven’t ever heard any high end-ish setups, let alone 6x9s as a whole. Comparing the Unity from Hybrid and the GS.


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cuz that particular comparison is not even close. I am not a AF is the only way by any means, but in this comparison...go AF.
a guy has won finals in his category with just the u69 and u2 as a wideband, and no subwoofer...

now i know that is a wideband. but why do you think the AF is that much better?
 

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ScanSpeak Revelator 18W vs Audiofrog G60?

back in the day those scanspeak revelators were super popular. i never got a chance to listen to a pair. are they still relevant?
I have not used those but have owned and tried the ScanSpeak Illuminator 18WU which are better by many accounts. They are really, really good midbass / midrange with lots of bass, but are terribly difficult to install for most people due to their depth. I took those out and replaced with the GB60 and I was seriously impressed by them. The GB60 can nearly keep up with the illuminators and are much more install friendly and not to mention, designed for the harshness of the car environment. Also somebody mentioned the ScanSpeak 12MU, I have tried those as well. They are an awesome sounding midrange but really need to be installed in a sealed enclosure to really shine. Again, not designed for the car environment. Seriously, the GB line is really good and install friendly. At the higher end of AF, ScanSpeak, DynAudio, Morel, etc etc it is really less about the speakers than it is about install and tuning.
 

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Ill say more so, which one would provide me more midbass? That’s what I’m after. On 100w a speaker or so.


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Over at CarAudioJunkies I modeled these and others for Hillbilly just recently with Bassbox pro and posted the graphs. The AFGs690 models better for midbass over the shallow unity.
 

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Did the OP get convinced yet to go with AF's haha? It's funny how we can model everything before goes into our vehicles but it still doesn't always determine the best in car outcomes. Acoustical variables are inherent in every vehicle so nothing seems to beat a good ole fashion install and a listen. I've learned over the last 25+ years that the only rule is there are no rules and no two installs are the same.
 

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Did the OP get convinced yet to go with AF's haha? It's funny how we can model everything before goes into our vehicles but it still doesn't always determine the best in car outcomes. Acoustical variables are inherent in every vehicle so nothing seems to beat a good ole fashion install and a listen. I've learned over the last 25+ years that the only rule is there are no rules and no two installs are the same.
Agreed, a lot of people forget that and tuning with the DSP is paramount to get right. Fail anywhere along the whole process and like a weak link in a chain it will have a less than desirable outcome. Having low distortion high qaulity and high output drivers does make getting the best sound easiest to attain. The frogs are proven high qaulity high output and low distortion with installation accessories that make that installation easier. Yeah there are arguably better drivers out there and certainly ones that cost even more so. That will always be a factor no matter the brand.
I’m certainly very happy with my GB series and want nothing more than they give me now for the money they cost. I think at this point in my installation, putting more time and money into tuning and possibly driver installation would net me more than changing out $2400 worth of drivers.
 

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Once you start getting in the high echelon of drivers that we're discussing they are all elite and it's just a matter of picking one that fits your application and finding their sweet spot. Your in car response determines where to go from there.
 

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Modeling isn't useless as that seems to be suggested. There's certain aspects that are revealed with modeling that helps determine which route to go with. Yet, the biggest issue with modeling is that most aren't familiar with their vehicle's acoustics and that must be taken into account in the data. It's pretty much a shortcut to just playing lotto... swapping drivers until you finally win.

Man & Machine... Power Extreme!
 

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The transition from subwoofer to midbass, and from midbass to midrange/tweeter all need to be smooth, especially around the crossover point.

It's ok to have the sub several decibels louder than the midbass (not just ok, ideal) but when you bump up the bass you need to make sure that where the sub crosses over with the midwoofer that you have a smooth transition. The same goes for the midbass to midrange/tweeter. The midrange/tweeter is still very active in playing bass (especially from real instruments) so that transition needs to be smooth as well.

Time alignment will get you started. All of the speakers in the system need to be set to arrive at the listener at the same time. Crossovers need to be smooth so that the frequency response around the crossover is pretty flat. You can boost or lower frequencies but do it carefully so that you don't have sudden changes in SPL around your crossover points. EQ is necessary as well.

I'm not going into a full tuning tutorial here, there are plenty of those already, but the key is smooth transitions.
 

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@Kountz
I'm not sure if you've come to a final decision on this, but I'm going to echo the responses of many others. Particularly @Bayboy.

Your current install is admittedly compromised and hasn't been tuned. To write off your Pioneer Zs at this point would be a waste. And any future comparison between the Zs in your current installation and the Audiofrog GBs with a better installation and tuning would be completely invalid. I'm not saying that the Zs are on par with the GBs, simply that they aren't on a level playing field to begin with.

Ultimately, you are going to need to install your DSP and tune. Ultimately you are going to need to optimize your installation. Do those things now, with the gear you currently have. You know what the Zs sound like when they aren't optimized. Time to find out how much better they can be when you give them a fair shake. If after you have done everything you can to address your installation and tuning you still aren't satisfied with the Pioneers, by all means, order the Audiofrogs. Or whatever other brand you might want to try.

And don't listen to anyone telling you that to get the impact you want you need to have a three way and 8" midbasses. That is absolute nonsense. My car has a pretty simple install of 1" tweeters (sails), 5" mids (dash corners), and two 10s (under front seats) and impact/output is not a problem. In fact, it is better now than when I ran 6s in my doors, 3s on my dash and tweeters in the sails. Proper driver selection, installation and tuning are the big factors for having an SQ system that can also "rip your face off." Two way, three way, 12 way... doesn't really matter.
 

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I had my midbass part of a 3 way using audio frog. It was really good. However the mid and upper freq were hertz. Which also was as well. Helix dsp and image placement of rhe upper range played a big part though along with proper sound deadening to remove some resonant freq issues. Like a few said. There are plenty of great speakers out there and dsp does play a good part as well. Proper tuning is a must.
 

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The comment about three was plus 8 may have been a response to me because I suggested 8s. That is a great observation and true. I may have written my comment and it was not written clearly. I never meant to suggest a three way plus 8. But a three way that included an 8 instead of a 6.5. Or even a 6x9 which is very close to an 8 in output and cone area.
but I would think a 10/12 midbass would be great. I have not had the opportunity to use a 8/10/12 midbass but it might happen one day.

also agree on the dsp and tune before replace speakers. I went through 5-6 different front stage sets and then decided to just get a dsp. Turns out myvehicle hates tweets in the stock locations without a dsp. Could have saved a lot of money by just getting a dsp to begin with. I basically gave away some great speaker sets.
 
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