[LBaudio]

That tear drop neo magnet......ahhh old school and so good

 

[LowBassSubs]

Alright cool! I'll keep you updated on the results that come back from klippel testing.

How many cubes would these need to be happy and integrate with the front?

 

[hurrication]

Don't know.. haven't fully finished the first prototype yet.

 

[LowBassSubs]

Well if I can fit it I'd get it😁

 

[pwnt by pat]

You could call it the "DIYMA ns15" in homage of Nick's "DIYMA R12"

 

[hurrication]

Eh, I don't want an association with a 15 year old tweaked buildhouse sub with a bad rep for folding cones that sold for $100 shipped. Maybe if DIYMA paid me enough to put their brand on it. 😁

I have a full time job and am doing this during free time on a manual lathe; too much time involved to try and produce and sell them and no chance of making any money on it. It's just a passion project. I would do it on an individual basis if someone wanted me to build them one and would pay enough for it to be worth my time. We'll see about that once all the R&D is finished. Right now I'm machining a mandrel for my coil winding machine so I can make coils with 304 stainless formers and next is getting thermocouples installed on the magnets, voice coil winding, and voice coil former.

Someone who knows John Ivey should convince him to revive Xtant and buy my design from me to use for a line of subs with that brand!

 

[hdrugs]

I'd rather pay a passionate hobbyists abit extra

Then a big company alot extra with thier marketing/operations cost ect

For certain products like a sub

 

[rimshot]

You should definitely make a profit on these. $500-600 range is standard for most super subs these days. That would be more than fair. The incriminator audio flatlyne is the closest I can think of, and its 500-ish (Flatlyne 15" 600W Subwoofer by Incriminator Audio® - SSA STORE (soundsolutionsaudio.com)

 

[LowBassSubs]

I'd rather pay a passionate hobbyists abit extra

Then a big company alot extra with thier marketing/operations cost ect

For certain products like a sub

Agreed. I'm all for doing business individuals who make something of use to me. I try to support small businesses as much as possible.

 

[wingnutjeep17]

Eh, I don't want an association with a 15 year old tweaked buildhouse sub with a bad rep for folding cones that sold for $100 shipped. Maybe if DIYMA paid me enough to put their brand on it. 😁

I have a full time job and am doing this during free time on a manual lathe; too much time involved to try and produce and sell them and no chance of making any money on it. It's just a passion project. I would do it on an individual basis if someone wanted me to build them one and would pay enough for it to be worth my time. We'll see about that once all the R&D is finished. Right now I'm machining a mandrel for my coil winding machine so I can make coils with 304 stainless formers and next is getting thermocouples installed on the magnets, voice coil winding, and voice coil former.

Someone who knows John Ivey should convince him to revive Xtant and buy my design from me to use for a line of subs with that brand!

So this thread is the reason I just brought these two subs home with me. 15" and a 12" with the big voice coil, one owner with minimal use, $300 for the pair!

Looking forward to testing these things out, and it's cool to see that you are working on improving the design. Is there any chance what you are building could be retrofitted onto one of these subs to improve the thermal capabilities, or is your project a whole new design? I'm not too familiar with speaker building.

I am a CNC lathe machinist though with access to a 4 axis Mazak lathe at work though that I use for personal projects and such when time allows. If I could be of any assistance with making parts for this project, don't hesitate to reach out to me, if it's kinda round and made out of metal I can probably make it.

Does anyone have an idea of what a safe amount of power is to run to these subs assuming no clipping? I've got about 250-350w available right now for either the 12 or 15, figure that should be safe enough?

Also, while inspecting the subs closer at home, I did notice the 12 has a tiny pinhole in the surround. Any recommendations on what the best way to address that would be?

 

[rimshot]

damn that's a score for real!

 

[Freakquency]

So this thread is the reason I just brought these two subs home with me. 15" and a 12" with the big voice coil, one owner with minimal use, $300 for the pair!

Looking forward to testing these things out, and it's cool to see that you are working on improving the design. Is there any chance what you are building could be retrofitted onto one of these subs to improve the thermal capabilities, or is your project a whole new design? I'm not too familiar with speaker building.

I am a CNC lathe machinist though with access to a 4 axis Mazak lathe at work though that I use for personal projects and such when time allows. If I could be of any assistance with making parts for this project, don't hesitate to reach out to me, if it's kinda round and made out of metal I can probably make it.

Does anyone have an idea of what a safe amount of power is to run to these subs assuming no clipping? I've got about 250-350w available right now for either the 12 or 15, figure that should be safe enough?

Also, while inspecting the subs closer at home, I did notice the 12 has a tiny pinhole in the surround. Any recommendations on what the best way to address that would be?

View attachment 355951 View attachment 355952 View attachment 355953 View attachment 355954 View attachment 355955

Glad I could motivate a purchase of this magnitude by asking the question

 

[hdrugs]

I say 400rms, I rather blow an amp then a sub when it's comes to the auras

Build a bigger box

 

[wingnutjeep17]

Well I think I got the surround repaired on the 12. Had some leftover glue that came with the refoam kit for my JL 12w6 a while ago. Put a thin layer on both sides of the hole in the surround. Not the prettiest, but hopefully it holds

I was thinking about pulling the back cover off to inspect the magnets before installing the sub.

Does anyone have any tips or warnings before I start taking it apart? Seems like I just start with the eight bolts on the back. Assuming that rear cap has some sort of way to center itself other than just the bolt holes for reassembly.

Is it a good idea to scrape as much of the playing off the magnets now vs waiting for it to flake off? I think I read through all the big threads on these subs, but don't remember seeing anyone come up with a replacement coating or way to prevent corrosion on the magnets

 

[hurrication]

So this thread is the reason I just brought these two subs home with me. 15" and a 12" with the big voice coil, one owner with minimal use, $300 for the pair!

Looking forward to testing these things out, and it's cool to see that you are working on improving the design. Is there any chance what you are building could be retrofitted onto one of these subs to improve the thermal capabilities, or is your project a whole new design? I'm not too familiar with speaker building.

I am a CNC lathe machinist though with access to a 4 axis Mazak lathe at work though that I use for personal projects and such when time allows. If I could be of any assistance with making parts for this project, don't hesitate to reach out to me, if it's kinda round and made out of metal I can probably make it.

That is a MEGA score!!!!!! Out of this world deal, these subs rarely ever show up for sale anymore, especially that cheap!

My design is not interchangeable at all and uses a different style and grade of arc magnet with a unique sized voice coil that I am winding myself. I am also a machinist and have been using some of the manual machines at work to make these chips. I have a lathe at home but the lathes at work have way more tooling!

 

[hurrication]

Does anyone have any tips or warnings before I start taking it apart? Seems like I just start with the eight bolts on the back. Assuming that rear cap has some sort of way to center itself other than just the bolt holes for reassembly.

Is it a good idea to scrape as much of the playing off the magnets now vs waiting for it to flake off? I think I read through all the big threads on these subs, but don't remember seeing anyone come up with a replacement coating or way to prevent corrosion on the magnets

I would not take them apart, and the magnets need the plating otherwise they will corrode faster. There's just nothing anybody can do about it.

Here is a link to some of the Aura motor pics: Aurasound NS15-992-4A motor exposed

 

[wingnutjeep17]

I would not take them apart, and the magnets need the plating otherwise they will corrode faster. There's just nothing anybody can do about it.

Here is a link to some of the Aura motor pics: Aurasound NS15-992-4A motor exposed

Gotcha, sounds like you've got the machining stuff covered then, looking forward to seeing how your sub turns out.

I'll hold off on taking them apart then, guess I'll just run them, probably 250w to the 12 and 330 to the 15. Planning on at least testing one or both of them as a dipole sub, so I don't think power handling will be my limiting factor anyways.

Fingers crossed the surround holds up on the 12...

 

[Mad Scientist]

@hurrication Just curious, is your coil winding machine able to produce round, flat, and hexagonal coils? Do you plan on running copper or aluminum coils?

 

[hurrication]

Do you mean the shape of the wire or the shape of the bobbin/former? I'm going to use copper wire on either titanium or 304 stainless former.

 

[Mad Scientist]

Referring to the wire cross section shape itself.