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Quick tip. USE A SHARPIE! Mark the bolts where they are so it will align back again where it was. I did this to my PT doors and still never bothers getting them on perfect flush as they were. Having 2 people help out is really the way to go.

As long as you have an OEM style Boot to use for the new run? & you have a boot or grommet on the dead space some cars have before it enters the cabin, then some Primer sealer paint that stops any corrosion of the drilled area?

It's a cinch. Have some fishing line handy to pull wires through the grommets and some Astrolube since just about everyone has that to easy pulling the wire through the OEM rubber tube so it looks stock and protects the wire.


The only thing I never found out about was... Is it best to Twist 2 wires, or just use Lamp Cord style? Seems like the 2 wire twist would hold up better since you are going to open and close the door and flex the wires during its lifetime.

Most good wires are rated to Belden's Spec of 1 million bends before breaking. But in practice, I have never had a problem with either one. So maybe its a non issue. Just wondered if anyone has any thoughts on that?


Its also a GREAT time to Lube the door hinges and take a look at any worn bushings while you are there.

I also want to pass on some advice on the rubber boot. Shoot some silicone on both sides and seal it from moisture. I noticed the one I had got has some water inside of it. it should not cause any problems. But I noticed it when I pulled the parts I needed from the junkyard. May have just been a freak thing.


Also a special note about those of you that are doing Chrysler Cars with the Active Infinity acoustic 10 system. Most of you have 4 wires going into the doors. 2 are for Power to the amps, and 2 are for high level signal. You can disable the power wires going to the doors, and then cap them off, then use the 2 former power conductos for signal wires. You can make that 3 if your amps all use a common ground, but then that's up to you. That way no drilling. And you have the ability to run a 3 way active in the doors. I would recommend you use a 6 channel amp so that you use the common ground of the amp. Not different amps. This gets you a quick and dirty way to use the Factory wires to the doors for an active 3 way setup in the doors as most modern doors just use a connector inside of the boot. Not just a boot and wires.

Might be helpful to some DIY installers out there that are not comfortable with drilling.


Its a Hack, but if you are in a pinch, this works.
 

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Bye bye door! Open air concept. I like it.

Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk
 
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