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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
I've been reluctant over the years to do a log here for a couple reasons. One I didn't think the skills were up to anything special for showing off anything that's not been seen, and two install learning curve on many levels has made my install work extremely slooooooowwww. Like molasses slow. And lastly I feared I'd make a confabulated crazy thread full of misinformation and audio heresy while showing just how newb I am at real installation and tuning. Hehe :) ah WTH! Here goes.. The old girl has something like 90k miles on the odo and she still boogies but has some squeaks here and there and some typical things I want to do from a maintenance and looks perspective. The paint will have to be redone. The 8th Civic paint curse has bitten me.



The car has already had iteration 2 or 3 maybe with still a two way system comprising of SB Acoustics drivers badged NVX and I've gone through various subs along the way with an SD-3 10" in an Audio Integrations box, then pulled it for a temporary 12TW1 in a first home-built sealed box for me.

Powered by 80PRS, PDX V9 and F4

Changes planned and in the works:

IB baby!!

Two IB12AU drivers on shelf now and building template now a bit unorthodox. Balsa wood. LOL! I have to make everything difficult. But ok. Here's as of tonight. Template done, time to cut some wood.



3-Way:

The poor guys at the NCSQ meet have heard me whine for the last time about a 3-way. Scan-speak D3004's and 10F mids will be replacing my first fabrication project in the pillars with a bit more extensive first-time pillar job for me.

Existing:


That little window will be getting mids and tweets glassed in a sealed enclosure pillar job for the 10F. Goal being as stealthy or inconspicuous as possible.

Gear list plan after this iteration:

80PRS main source
IDevice into HDMI converted to toslink for second source
Helix DSP (8 ch) with two-knob remote
PDX V9 for sub, mids, tweets
PDX F4 for midbass.
D3004 around 3100 hz up maybe
10F from 400 to 3100 hz
NVX (SB17) XSP65 midbass from 80 to 400 hz. Maybe a surprise or two there though on driver and installation



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Discussion Starter #4
Sub'! Why balsa, for rigidity/weigth?

Thought was I hoped to play with my flush trim bit doing the actual baffle baffle boards. :). Silly I know. Hindsight a good piece of cardboard and cutout with a jigsaw would have gotten it done just fine.
 

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Ex-8th gen Civic owner checking in.

Too bad you can't use those tweeter pods again, they look great.

Looking forward to the build!
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Ex-8th gen Civic owner checking in.

Too bad you can't use those tweeter pods again, they look great.

Looking forward to the build!


Thanks. Yeah I was quite proud of those for a first-timer doing anything like that. Hope to have lightning strike twice with the pillar mid/tweet job.
 

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Funny how things work...I have been cutting 5mm ply for my 07 EX sedan IB install since 1PM. I just started getting towards sundown and chilly here, I packed it in for the night and saw your idea of a template.
I was hoping to do 1 18" or 2 15" for mine though. I'm letting the baffle guide me but I pretty sure either can work.
 

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Discussion Starter #8 (Edited)
Yeah I wish I had some ply on hand so being blasphemous and using what I got.. 3/4" MDF it is. Best? No. But I got sheets of the stuff. Finally getting to work on it a little. Here goes nothing. Roughed in with a jigsaw.



Now fun with power tools..



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Discussion Starter #9
Big shout out to Mark at Car Audio Fabrication for the instructional vids that have given me the courage to attempt this craziness.

And big shout out to ErinH who blazed the trail with 8th Civic speaker install stuff he's done over the years, that has inspired the wild stuff I'm about to do to some spare pillars on the shelf. And the patience he's had in teaching me tuning from what he learned the hard way. You rock Dude!


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Discussion Starter #11
Along for the ride!
Those NVX tweeters are on my shopping list after I get a 80prs. If I may ask why are you moving away from them? Just because 3way?

Pretty much because of 3way. It was hard decision actually. I love these tweeters. It wasn't the tweeters that prompted it but the realization the door mids simply couldn't deliver the freq response in door, off axis, without gutting them with EQ. Seeing the amount of midbass lost in that process they definitely need to hand over the torch from about 350-400hz and up, rather than trying to play up to 2khz. They could do it but the amount of EQ cuts proved to me 3-way would really let them shine more. But the tweeters could play very low, below 2khz even, output depending. 2097 hz is where I had them last and very pulled back because the door mids couldn't keep up in upper midrange.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Yes they are really nice.

Maybe could you re-use somewhere behind for rearfill?

Nope. They're molded on the plate in the pillar window. I guess I'll try to find an 8th civic guy who wants to do killer tweets pretty much instantly by popping out a plate and popping these in.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
I'm so looking forward to following this build and seeing / hearing the results

I'm excited to finally be taking the plunge. Fall meet is the goal my friend. Ambitious I think. The pro's could probably knock it out in due order but I'm certainly no pro. Garage DIY'er amateur rookie novice at best. Hehehe.

First test fit was as I suspected.. Baffle wall needs trimming. Fine. You can take wood off but can't put it back. Don't have a board stretcher around. LOL!
 

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Discussion Starter #16
And bam!!


Let's make some big holes!


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Discussion Starter #17


So newb mistake I'll never make again... Never underestimate the routers ability to jump on you.. Hold onto that sucker. I think it's salvageable but sure hurt my dang ego. So, trudging onward. That's how I left it last night. Shut down the shop and got a 12-pack or Sierra Navada's. Mad, was an understatement. I'll fill in my boo boo with putty and lick my ego wounds but thank God it didn't get any worse than damaged wood.

I was more mad I let it happen than anything to do with the damage to the piece. And that 1/4" spiral bit bastard was fully distended and ready to whoop somebody's ass. I'm glad it didn't take a turn at me. That crap shall NEVER happen again. Let the grip get limp while running, while probably cut through, while dickin' around with the stupid power cord. The plethora of things I did wrong were a perfect storm. In any case, trudging forward, and thinking how much fun attaching, and sealing is going to be.. Shoooooo!
 

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The sealing is gonna be the toughest part, I got mine in and is sounds like crap. Prob my choice of woofer, amp, and sealing. I'll post pics in a moment to compare.
 

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So newb mistake I'll never make again... Never underestimate the routers ability to jump on you.. Hold onto that sucker. I think it's salvageable but sure hurt my dang ego. So, trudging onward. That's how I left it last night. Shut down the shop and got a 12-pack or Sierra Navada's. Mad, was an understatement. I'll fill in my boo boo with putty and lick my ego wounds but thank God it didn't get any worse than damaged wood.

I was more mad I let it happen than anything to do with the damage to the piece. And that 1/4" spiral bit bastard was fully distended and ready to whoop somebody's ass. I'm glad it didn't take a turn at me. That crap shall NEVER happen again. Let the grip get limp while running, while probably cut through, while dickin' around with the stupid power cord. The plethora of things I did wrong were a perfect storm. In any case, trudging forward, and thinking how much fun attaching, and sealing is going to be.. Shoooooo!
Im glad you are Ok. routers are no joke. I have a friend, Jeremy Carlson who is arguably one of the BEST fabricators and installers in the world lose part of his finger in a router accident. It happens really quickly and BAM, its done:eek:


sealing baffle is easy. get some armaflex foam or any foam to make a gasket. to sandwhich between the baffle and the rear deck/back seat support.
Then you have numerous ways to secure the baffle.
then simply expanding foam around the edges. let the foam cure. then shave down the excess so its flush
then install your beauty panel
you may want to consider doing L brackets on top and bottom of the baffle for extra rigidity
 
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