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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi everyone. I'm slowly getting my system pieced together, and had a question about the rear wall of my Ext. cab Silverado. I plan on mounting my amps and the brains for my IVA-D300/H701 back there on a piece of MDF. My question is, should I put sound deadening on the rear wall and then mount the MDF on top of it? Or should the MDF just be attached to the steel?
 

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I would like others to chime in here. But mine has deadener on the wall first (I think that's goin to be the norm)...
Then I have the mdf mounted by screws through the back wall :)blush:)tacky -I know... not happy with that myself... I have seen others use liquid nails or f-26 glue to stick the mdf to those raised ridges back there(deadned)...
I would have prefered this -undecided about going back to fix... Then I put stock under-carpet vent thingy back over the mdf and stuck in factory location with plug fasteners...
Then I screwed my amp down to the mdf. The amp is dead center with hookups coming through the vent.:cool:.
Things would change if I had multi amps though.
 

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ya the easiest way is to deaden first and attach the mdf to that. On my old truck i tack welded 2 brackets and attached the mdf to those. I then ran the wires behind the mdf. Looked great but took alot of work that would never be seen.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Thanks for the answers guys.

After I posted, I was expecting some people to be like "Of course you deaden it first! Put 100 billion layers of deadener in there! Nothing wrong with overkill!" ;) But I'm trying to be somewhat cost effective with this install. And I need to pick and choose my battles.
 

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I dont have a Silverado, but I do have an F150 with all my amps on the backwall. I put 2 layers of Raammat on the back wall, then mounted my MDF boards on top of that. Luckily for me, the sheet metal on the rear wall of the F150 is double layered, and each layer has about an inch of space between them. So i was able to drill into the first layer and mount my boards with a couple screws without going through the second layer and puncturing to the outside of the cab. I did back it up with liquid nails though.

If the Silverado is only single layered on the back wall, I would definitly use liquid nails.

If you dont deaden the rear wall, I recommend you seal up one of the vents on the back wall (well, depending how many the silverado has). My F150 has 2, and I sealed the passenger side vent and half of the driver's side. It really reduced exhaust and tire noise by a lot.
 

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My back wall has one layer of Sludge, a layer of Damplifier, and a 3/4" piece of MDF silconed to it vs the screwing through the metal.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
My back wall has one layer of Sludge, a layer of Damplifier, and a 3/4" piece of MDF silconed to it vs the screwing through the metal.
Think you really needed Sludge AND Damplifier? Seems like one or the other would have worked.

And oh, it's a '99. Which is another reason why I'm hesitant about putting tons of deadener in it. It's friggin 10 years old. But unless it dies, I'll probably have it for a few more years.
 

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I'm not a fan of drilling holes either. I have an 07 Classic (same as 06) and there's not as much room behind the seat as previous models. I glued some 3/4"furring strips to aluminum tape that I stuck to the back wall (Deadening in between and foam over top), then screwed 1/2" ply to the furring strips.






 

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Need....probably not. I started with the sludge and while it killed some of the road/tire noise, when I added a lay of damplifier, it was significantly quieter. I travel in excess of 60,000 miles a year in my truck and felt it was worth the extra effort. BTW 2008 GMC extd cab.



Think you really needed Sludge AND Damplifier? Seems like one or the other would have worked.

And oh, it's a '99. Which is another reason why I'm hesitant about putting tons of deadener in it. It's friggin 10 years old. But unless it dies, I'll probably have it for a few more years.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
I like that CGG318. One question though. Do the rear seats on the NBS trucks fold down, or did you mod it? Gonna have to figure out something on mine so I can access the amps if needed.

Finebar4, I get ya. If this truck was newer and $$ permitted, I'd go a little crazy in there!
 

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Raise the rear seat up as I did. Click the link in my sig and look mat the last few pics. Shows how I did it. Seat folds down when needed.

I also have my amps mounted back there too. The top piece trim just under you rear window is mounted on a lip. Pull that trim off (pops off/clips), I just made my amprack go up to there and screwed to it there. No holes to the outside of the cab were made. See in pics as well.
 

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Raise the rear seat up as I did. Click the link in my sig and look mat the last few pics. Shows how I did it. Seat folds down when needed.

I also have my amps mounted back there too. The top piece trim just under you rear window is mounted on a lip. Pull that trim off (pops off/clips), I just made my amprack go up to there and screwed to it there. No holes to the outside of the cab were made. See in pics as well.
I looked... Couldn't quite find pics on how you "raised" the seat...
I imagine that you machined some kind of blocks for the feet to rest on before their bolted down???

Please advise
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
He used 2" pieces of C-channel for the seat mounting points. If you look at the pics of the truck on the left side, you can browse the pics of how he raised it.
 

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Ah... It's on page 4 of the truck album (1st one)...
I like it, but I'm already committed to the "trim tab" method... also curious to see if there has been any cosmetic work to cover the new brackets up... I still may do this if I have a need for it. I may could use an inch lift... Maybe see if square tubing will work.
 

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I would do deadening then the MDF. I did the same thing on the back wall of my vette when mounting my Sub amp. I lucked out on my single cab silverado though. I had enough room for this guy:



 

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Ah... It's on page 4 of the truck album (1st one)...
I like it, but I'm already committed to the "trim tab" method... also curious to see if there has been any cosmetic work to cover the new brackets up... I still may do this if I have a need for it. I may could use an inch lift... Maybe see if square tubing will work.

I see he used two pieces of C channel. I used one solid piece that was i think like 6.5 in long. I then rhinolined them. I thought about fabbin up a fiberglass box to cover it up but idk yet.

You're going to have some trouble with the square tubing because your not goin to be able to reach the rear bolt to tighten it.

He also doesn't show how to get the rear seat to fold down. I used 1/8 steel that was 1x5 in. I drilled two holes in it that can be bolted to the hooks(comes with two holes in it) that attach to the rear of the cab
 
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