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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
a lot of vehicles today have unibodies and installers will run grounds straight to metal panels. as some of you know, its hard to find a solid ground source in these cars. they think just scratching the paint off and running short lengths of wire is a sufficient ground. sadly, this is practicied even at "High-End" shops. they'll also run 1/0 from the hood to the trunk and split it to 4 gauge. fyi, both amps have 1/0 connectors. for 2 months, i dealt with both of amps overheating and going into protect mode. i also seen hughe voltage drops and even my dash would black out. guess what caused all of this?

BAD GROUNDS!

the shop didnt want to take any responsibility and blamed the amp manufacturer. they even offered to install fans in the tire well to "HELP" keep the amps cool. here i am on facebook car audio groups leaving bad reviews for this manufacturer when it was all USER ERROR! this is why you got to do your own installs. a lot of shops cant be trusted anymore. even the ones that claim to be the best.

here's how i fixed it. i ran 1/0 ofc from the negative terminal of the agm batter under the hood to a second battery in the trunk. i also ran a short run of 1/0 to the chassis in the tire well from the negative terminal of the battery in the trunk. instant fix!

yes, a big 3 was previously done. all 1/0 ofc. i also ugraded from a 120 amp alternator to a 250. there was absolutely no reason to have major voltage drops and amps going into protect mode.

so... if your amps are getting hot and not performing like they should, check your grounds.

the first 2 pictures is the crap work done by so-called best shop. the last picture is what i did to clean up this shop's f-up's. shop couldve caused both of my amps to fry and they refuse to issue a refund.
 

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I have a 2020 Explorer which is a unibody car. I had hoped to just do a good panel ground in the tire well but after getting under the car and studying the construction I found way more panel bond than spot welds. I also ran 0 from the battery to the back of the car…no second battery but my first plan for a ground probably wouldn’t have been a ground at all.
 
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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
glad you got this sorted out

$2200 there shouldnt be any issues and if there is... fix it asap or issue a refund immediately. this shop, like many others... wont take any responsibility
 

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So, I just want to make sure I understand the fix so I can use it in my own life. Because you grounded the battery to the chassis close to your amplifier grounds, it made the ground.... can't think of the correct term.... flow better? Sorry if that's a dumb question. Just trying to learn something new
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
So, I just want to make sure I understand the fix so I can use it in my own life. Because you grounded the battery to the chassis close to your amplifier grounds, it made the ground.... can't think of the correct term.... flow better? Sorry if that's a dumb question. Just trying to learn something new
i dont know the term either lol. if you dont have a frame to run a ground to, this is an excellent method. yes, it sux running more wire but... it fixed my issue immediately
 

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Welcome to the forum. It’s unfortunate what shops call “professional” work here in San Antonio as well. However head north an hour to Austin or a couple more to College Station and they have some of the best builder/fabricators around. I would figure with all the training programs and freely accessible information the install quality would increase. Guess not. Maybe one day you’ll be great full toward these knuckle heads for motivating you to research and knockout the install yourself. Clean work too.
What are your amps pushing?
 

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Wow that's a bummer.

I heard of a high end shop in Georgia once that connected a main amplifier ground straight to the ground terminal of a really nice Audible Physics speaker that had been in PERFECT condition before the amp install.

This is what the speaker looked like afterwards--

Automotive tire Camera lens Tread Wood Rim
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Just out of curiosity...do you have a fuse on both ends of the positive wire close to the front and rear battery that is connecting the two? how is your rear battery getting charged?
second battery charges straight from the alternator. fuses under the hood. just to be safe i could add a second fuse to the rear.
 

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I must be getting old... I'm slipping! Usually I spot "the Kountz" immediately! Good detective work fellas! We've been needing some entertainment around here!
My K-dar went off as soon as I read the post.
 

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second battery charges straight from the alternator. fuses under the hood. just to be safe i could add a second fuse to the rear.
When I did my second battery I ended up realizing i had to fuse the rear battery just like you would the front. for safety its a good practice to have a fuse at a minimum 18 inches from the power source (battery) i started using Blue Sea marine fuses that literally attached to the battery post alleviating the giant fuse holders. i think the max size they offer is 300amp

I get the fuses here cheap..


and the fuse holders...

 

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When I did my second battery I ended up realizing i had to fuse the rear battery just like you would the front. for safety its a good practice to have a fuse at a minimum 18 inches from the power source (battery) i started using Blue Sea marine fuses that literally attached to the battery post alleviating the giant fuse holders. i think the max size they offer is 300amp

I get the fuses here cheap..


and the fuse holders...

If you’re running a ground wire instead of using the chassis you need a fuse on the ground wire as well. I would put one up front and at the back battery on the power and ground wires.

my Toyota Corolla is a unibody and I do not have any issues grounding to the unibody. Although I’m never using more than 500 watts at the absolute max…Even though my amps are rated for significantly more..

I’m not 100% sure why this is but I’ve read posts about using a dedicated ground wire and if there is no fuse on it and a short happens where that wire is dumping a large amount of current you want it fused with a fuse appropriate to the wire gauge.

the reason bad ground are a problem is because electricity flows in “closed” circuit - your circuit is only as good as the ****tiest point. If you have 1/0 ofc power wire and a ****ty 8 gauge CCA ground then the current still needs to flow through that ****ty little ground to complete the circuit.

anyways you should get some mini anl or midi fuses for your ground. Same size as your +12v wire
 
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