DiyMobileAudio.com Car Stereo Forum banner

1 - 17 of 17 Posts

·
Moderator
Joined
·
4,981 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
lately, it seems we have been doing a slew of simple basic SQ installs for a variety of cars, while i do get enjoyment out of bigger builds, these single amp/stock location projects are definitely pretty cool and grants much more frequent gratification :)

this particular project is a new model civic sedan, a car that i kinda have a love hate relationship with :) love the big old dash board, hate having to fit a tweeter in the stock location with my fat fingers.

this was a joint project with Jesse and I, with Jesse taking care of most of the build, and i built the amp rack, and did the wiring under the rear deck.

goals:

1. achieve a nice level of sound quality using stock locations

2. keep as much trunk space as possible, retain spare tire, and keep things as out of sight as possible.

one thing i have to say is that the one thing that has made these simple builds possible has been the release of the new arc audio xdiv2 amps, namely, the 1100.5 and the 1200.6. these little powerhouses have enough power for a simple two way active and sub system and are small and cheap enough to fit in a small, stealthy and modestly priced build. very cool :)

lets get started.

first thing is the underhood fuse holder bracket, and this is a little bit of a milestone for me, as i decided to learn how to weld and this is my first welding project (other than helping to weld exhaust and making popcorn back in pittsburgh 10 years ago :D).

it was pretty basic and it came out okay:







more to come in the future! :)

the signal source is a pioneer 80prs single din headunit, installed via the best kits finisher, note the USB flush mounting plate at the back of the pocket for the customer to plug a usb source into. there is an additional usb input cable in the car as the 80prs has two usb inputs:







for the front stage, we went with a set of morel virtus 602 two way components. the midbass was installed in the lower door stock location.

first, new speaker wires were run into the door:



then the door was sound proofed with stinger foam, stp cld and blackhole tile, and the speaker adapter was secured in place:



then the sepaker was wired up and installed. the reason why its upside down is becuase the terminals are at the bottom of the sepaker frame and by mounting it upside down, it required no cutting of the door metal :)





then jesse applied some CLD on the inside of the door card as well to help with resonance:


]
the same procedure was then repeated on the passenger side:







the tweeter went into the stock location. i have done the tweeter in a newer model civic in a coupla ways, ranging from flush mounted to the top of the grille to having a tweeter hidden underneath the factory grille. it was a trade off between cosmetics, and funneling the sound through the tiny tweeter grille which to me, had a slightly adverse effect on tonality. so for this car, i did something in between. i cut a hole just a tiny bit smaller than the tweeter dome grille into the mesh, and then secured the tweeter from the bottom of the grille so the full diaphram is exposed. then i covered the entire thing with grille cloth so it wouldnt look like a grille within a grille. here is the end result:





and here are two quick pics of the mounts out of the car:





next are a coupla shots of the wire routing, still got to get jesse to snap more pics :D







he also removed the speaker from the rear deck and fully sound proofed both surfaces:





moving to the trunk, as mentioned, the idea was to have a very simple and stealthy trunk, with the spare tire retained. so here is the normal view with the trunk open. the only thing visible is a low profile side fiberglss enclosure on the driver side:






pop the breathable grille off and a single audiomobile gts 2110 10" subwoofer can be seen sitting in the .5 cubft sealed enclosure:





 

·
Moderator
Joined
·
4,981 Posts
Discussion Starter #2
to see the amp and dsp, you have to duck your head low and look on the underside of the rear deck. here a single arc audio xdiv2 1100.5 5 channel amp and a mosconi 4to6 dsp sits in rack that is bolted to the underside of the rear deck.

the amp sends 150 watts to each mid and tweeter, and 500 watts to the sub. all wiring is neatly routed and organized throughout. :)



















and a final look at the low profile box jesse built to show how recessed it is:



onto the build pics:

first jesse taped off the whole area, glassed in a bottom portion out of 3/4" mdf, and laid down 6 layers of mat to form the back of the enclosure:





then he trimmed the back portion, attached a ring, pulled cloth, and applied additional resin and fiberglass. then filler went on and the entire box was sanded smooth...and he took zero pictures of that process hahahah:cool:

but finally, it ended up looking like this:









then the box was carpeted:







and the box bolted in place with a bolt through a rivet nut:



here is a quick look at the breathable grille:



onto the amp rack, which is a simple two piece design with a vinyled bottom portion and a carpeted top portion. with threaded inserts installed to securely anchor the components upside down:



six rivet nuts were secured onto the rear deck and six bolts hold up the entire amp rack:



and finally, here is the top and bottom portion upholstered, and then joined together and bolted to the car:







so thats it, very simple and straightforward.

i have to say this is probably one of the best sounding stock location civic sedan i have done....everything is really balanced, depth is really really good as you can imagine, width is good and center is surprisingly precise. midbass also is excellent with a lot of impact and extension, and the single 10 does really well with 500 watts and provides a very solid amount of bottom end reinforcement.

overall, its hard to imagine having a much better sounding system within the constraints and budget of this build...i am really happy about it. :)

Bing
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,301 Posts
Wow, simple but very classy looking... awesome as usual...Can i ask what the budget was for this build, you did bring it up as a constraint.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
26 Posts
Any reason to use a 4to6 if you already have an 80PRS? Seems redundant... I know we are doing mine without *soon*
 

·
Moderator
Joined
·
4,981 Posts
Discussion Starter #5
Any reason to use a 4to6 if you already have an 80PRS? Seems redundant... I know we are doing mine without *soon*

the tuning ability afforded by the 4to6 is quite useful. i have done two other civics with very similar setups that just used the 80prs, those sounded good, but to me, the tuning ability afforded by the dsp really helped this one take another step sound wise :)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5,676 Posts
Basic SQ upgrade 11 civic Sedan - a Jesse and Bing Joint: Arc, AM, Mosconi, M...

Thank you for the illumination of how to hang these types of amp racks.
Makes me rethink an original plan of false floor in my 08 Si Sedan with amps over the spare.

What size/type rivet nuts do you typically use for these?
I wonder how much outlay it'd be to tool up for rivet nuts, having no such rivet nut tool for them now.
Edit: Actually Joey answered it in the Sti build I'm reading now on nut sizes.

I've got a processor (MS-8 for now) and two NVX amps to hide at present so the footprint is probably a bit larger. One could possibly mount amps and processor on a suspended board maybe with items mounted above and below, maybe, to keep the board footprint down.

Like this, it's all about minimal fab but somewhat hidden install. Great idea I think. Saw one similar on 8thcivic where a shop mounted it with a hinge so the "rack" could be flipped down to access the amps. Food for thought. That'd be useful more for anps with controls on the amp top I suppose.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5,676 Posts
Bought the Marson kit earlier this evening. Hopefully a successful amp mount.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
1,690 Posts
I have both /\ Rivetnut tools. They both do a nice job. I use the AP whenever I can, and the marson when the AP won't fit..
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
915 Posts
For the record, the Harbor Freight rivnut tool works just fine:

45 Piece Threaded Insert Riveter Kit

It's not refined, it's not high quality, but it does work. Bonus, it comes with rivnuts. Regardless of the tool, this is the way to go when trying to attach to sheetmetal.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
1,690 Posts
You and Bing would be best buddies! :D


For the record, the Harbor Freight rivnut tool works just fine:

45 Piece Threaded Insert Riveter Kit

It's not refined, it's not high quality, but it does work. Bonus, it comes with rivnuts. Regardless of the tool, this is the way to go when trying to attach to sheetmetal.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5,676 Posts
I imagine mounting from top or bottom to the rear deck really shouldn't matter if the nut is installed well.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
10 Posts
I have a similar amp rack installed in the rear deck of my 06 Civic EX sedan. Instead of rivets I used some metal brackets to hang the rack. The rack hangs a few inches down and leaves around an inch or two between the deck metal and the top of my amps.

The one thing I didn't factor in living in Southern California was the amount of heat soak the amps experience off of the rear deck. I don't have the rear window tinted and haven't added any deadener to the rear deck yet. I would think that might help a little bit.

On summer days my amps have been very hot to the touch. (I haven't experienced any problems with my amps so far) I just wanted to let you know that the amps can and do get hot mounted under the rear deck.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5,676 Posts
I'm at a stand-still until the rivet nut kit arrives. Guess I better work on tweet pods.
 

·
Moderator
Joined
·
4,981 Posts
Discussion Starter #16
my opinion with most modern amps is that as long it doesnt thermal protect, you are fine. these arc xdis with their fan cooling works well in virtually all mounting conditions:)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5,676 Posts
Dunno about these NVX units internally, but their sinks are on both sides instead of on top.

I imagine though, since the board is on the bottom of the amp, with what appears to be some internal sinks above it, it's meant for heat to rise and dissipate through the top. Thus, I'd probably do well to tray them right-side-up suspended, rather than just a plate upside down.

 
1 - 17 of 17 Posts
Top