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Discussion Starter #1
Hey Guys,

This is going to be a pretty slow build in an Aussie Toyota Corolla Hatch Levin ZR.

My gear is currently installed in my Mazda 3 (see the BL Mazda3 Build Log here). My hands are pretty full with our 9 month old, so this will be updates maybe once every fortnight etc.

Planned gear list:

* FullRiver Battery
* Audison Battery Terminals
* HAT L1 Ring Radiators, L3SE & L6SE
* Image Dynamics IDMAX12D4V3
* Helix P SIX DSP (front stage)
* JL Audio HD1200/1 (sub stage)
* Headunit - unknown, 80PRS or Double-Din with CarPlay
* Monster Jr RCAs
* Custom 12V AirportExpress for AirPlay Optical out

Here is a quick pov pic of the Corolla:


The plan is the Tweet and mid are in custom A-Pillars in the little front windows and the Midbass in the factory stock location.

The sub will go in the spare wheel well with my first attempt at a basic SiS-style false floor.

First cab off the rank will be sound deadening this weekend.

Thanks!
 

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Discussion Starter #2
I had a few mins spare while the baby was sleeping to tackle the outer skins of the passenger door (opposite for you yanks). I had 1 sheet of StP Bomb to split between the two front doors, so careful placement was required. This stuff is super thick (4mm) and pretty tough to cut, but got there in the end. I also placed a StP Crystal Lens for the back wave behind the mid bass location (not pictured).

I also applied some spare StP Silver (1.8mm) to the door trim to add some weight. I was planning on applying a roll of StP BTP 5 (5mm open cell foam). But the it comes with factory jute, so that will do.

Hopefully today I'll get a chance to do the inner skin. The plan is a sheet of Dynamat with a sheet of Gladen-Multi on top.





Or should I take off the jute and apply the open cell foam?
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Got a little more work done today.

Finished the passenger door outer skin with a layer of Gladen-Multi.


Then I started the painful task of pulling apart the car to run wiring. I did the left side speaker wire first. I utilised the factory channel to secure the wiring. I figured if it's good enough for Toyota, it's good enough for me, no need for a million zip ties etc.





I used 16awg wire since my little P SIX DSP only does 120W/channel :)

I also completely covered the boot in CLD/Dynamat, but no pic of that :)
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Micro update

Got a job done today that I've been dreading, running the main power wire. These Corollas have a factory grommet with an opening for an additional 8ga cable for the JBL add on system. This hole was enlarged with some difficulty and the wire passed through, all the way to the boot. I will tech flex this once the terminals and relay are installed :)

 

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Discussion Starter #5
Another micro update:

I've finally finished the sound deadening of this car with the drivers door. I ran out of Gladen so tried out SoundSkins. Very nice product! But required a lot of cuts to allow the door trim back on. Usual deal of StP Bomb on the outer skin (plus StP Crystal Lens) + Dynamat and SecondSkin on the inner skin.


I've also finished running all the wiring to the boot, I ran the RCAs and the RHS speaker wiring in the factory channel. Excuse the dirty car, it needs a vacuum!


My 25mm HDPE has arrived for the speaker baffles and a nutsert tool to add some threads to the factory bolt holes (factory speaker is riveted on). All I have is a jigsaw, so that will do for now :)

Hopefully will have some updates in a few days.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Seems like it's just me in this thread, but it's a good way to document everything :)

Over the past few days I've had a little time to get the mid bass mounted. (Process is same for left/right). I had a bit of trouble cutting the 25mm HDPE with the jigsaw (even with the right blade and slow speed) compared to the 13mm stuff I've used in the past. But I got there in the end. It's pretty rough, but thankfully won't be seen. I'd like to buy a router when it comes for the boot install.

Rings cut


I bought a nutsert tool to enable me to use the factory mounting locations without any extra drilling. This is a seriously useful tool! I use M5 threads and M5 stainless steel allen drive bolts to mount the spacers (see final pic).


I then marked the mounting holes for the L6SE mid bass drivers. I had some threaded inserts in the cupboard from my previous build. In hindsight, I think tee-nuts are a little more easier to use due to the 'give' they provide if the insert isn't 100% aligned. But I got there in the end. These are an M4 thread and the drivers were mounted with M4 stainless bolts with a countersunk allen drive.


I think added a ring of Gladen Multi to seal the driver to the spacer, this is much nicer than using foam tape as it isn't sticky but compresses to create a nice seal :) Apologies for the poor pic, the lighting is poor in the garage! You can see the driver mounted and the machined bolts I used to mount the driver and spacer.


OCD also got the best of me and I went back and zip tied all the wires running down the factory channel. The SQ competition here in Australia doesn't check these sort of things, but it helps me sleep at night :p
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Onto the more fun part of builds, the fabrication part. Not much in this post but just some ideas of what I'm thinking in terms of A-Pillars. The Corolla has some nice side windows that I'd like to mount the Tweet/Mid into. I'm going to get a 100% tint applied so that no-one can see the back of the drivers and for UV protection.

Pillars


A while ago, a good friend of mine with a 3D printer made these baffles for me and a 3D printed grill. We're going to re-do the grill to give it a bit of a dome and to add a rabbet for fixing the grill cloth, but this is the initial concept. You'll notice there is an allowance for trimming in the mounting as these pillars will be with foam backed headliner material.









 

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Discussion Starter #11
Phew! Its been a long time since I've done any work on the Corolla. The smash people did a great job and it's looking all sweet, but I've lost a bit of motivation.

My family are away this weekend, so it's prime time for some pillar action.

Pillars cut


Baffles mounted. I don't have a laser, so they were sorta aiming somewhere to the opposite B-Pillar.


Left side stretched and CA glued solid


At this point, I'm out of CA, so I'll pick this up soon :)
 

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Discussion Starter #12
And to finish things off for the day. I ran out of fg-reinforced filler and normal filler, so couldn't finish it all off today sadly.

Right side cloth stretched and CA set


Milkshake baby! Love this process. Gets all the gaps nice and easy.


More tomorrow :)
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Got these all tidied up today. Hit the edges with the dremel to ensure everything fits ok.

Test fit.


I'm *very* happy with how these turned out...


First layer of filler, fibreglass-reinforced.


Final layer of normal filler all sanded. You'll also note I cut a piece in the base of the pillar, so the L3SE can breath into the dash :)


The final finish is a bit rough, but these will be trimmed by a pro shop (I don't even bother attempting to trim) in headliner foam-backed matching material.

Thanks!
 

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Two things.

1. You might want to be careful about that vent. Turning on the heater and blasting directly into a otherwise sealed enclosure could be very bad for the speaker.

2. When your doing your tune. Try mounting your tweeter a little higher. The way you have it is going to have immediate diffraction. Might be something to play with during tuning

Sent from my SGH-T999 using Tapatalk
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Two things.

1. You might want to be careful about that vent. Turning on the heater and blasting directly into a otherwise sealed enclosure could be very bad for the speaker.

2. When your doing your tune. Try mounting your tweeter a little higher. The way you have it is going to have immediate diffraction. Might be something to play with during tuning

Sent from my SGH-T999 using Tapatalk
Thanks for the constructive criticism.

In Aus, it's pretty much hot all the time, so the front vents are rare. I figure if speakers are built to sit in 122F temp all day, then a little warm air isn't going to hurt, especially since it's leaky as :)

Speaker placement is always a compromise isn't it! You might be right re tweeter close to the glass, but it was a balancing act of making the car drivable and having everything on a common baffle.

Hopefully it sounds ok.
 

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Thanks for the constructive criticism.

In Aus, it's pretty much hot all the time, so the front vents are rare. I figure if speakers are built to sit in 122F temp all day, then a little warm air isn't going to hurt, especially since it's leaky as :)

Speaker placement is always a compromise isn't it! You might be right re tweeter close to the glass, but it was a balancing act of making the car drivable and having everything on a common baffle.

Hopefully it sounds ok.
Actually what I meant was that your tweeter is inset in the wood(flush mounted) and then has the diffraction directly into the raised edge around the baffle

Sent from my SGH-T999 using Tapatalk
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Been a bit slow with updates. I've started the base of the boot, but due to a heatwave I haven't made much progress on that. Hopefully will have some photos soon.

I dropped the pillars and grills at the trimmers today, they did an excellent job as you can see. They wrapped in matching Corolla foam backed headliner material. Extremely happy with the result.





 

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Discussion Starter #20
Very slow progress on my part. I've been working on this piece for about a month haha!

Just need to built the top half of the box then I can get stuck into the glassing :)

I like how I can use the four factory mounting points to secure the whole thing!

 
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