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Discussion Starter #1
Ford Escape limited ed 2003, stock alternator and I have a new battery. Dura last gold standard)


Battery will die if car sits in driveway for more than 48 hours I.e. don't run car Saturday or Sunday, Monday morning batter dead car won't start. I bought a battery charger until I find out what the problem is.

The system I have is 2 amps , for speakers cadence 600watt amp and an autotek 1500 watt max amp for the subs. Everything turns off how it is supposed when car is off. I have a distribution block with digital meter that stays lit for 20 seconds even after car is off but I don't think that is the source of battery drain.

Could the problem be that the alternator is no good and not charging? Any advice if you have seen this problem before. Im leaning towards alternator problem since the battery is new, and holds a charge when I charge it inthe garage.

Ill probably upgrade the battery to a yellow top and also upgrade the alternator when I can. Any suggestions for these replacements too.

Thanks
 

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Do you have a multimeter? If so you can measure voltage with car on/ off
 

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Discussion Starter #3
The distribution block comes with a digital meter, that's the light that stays lot for 20 seconds after car is off but then turns off too. That meter usually reads between 13 and 14 volts when car is on and running.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
105 amps is what I'm finding after I search online for the stock specs on 2003 ford escapes. 120,000+ miles since 2003 and alternator hasn't been changed, still have the stock alt.
 

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I would have the output of the alternator checked. If you are only able to get the thing to muster about 70 amp, then that is what is causing your drain.

I don't know much about your car. What are some of the recent mods or things you suspect as causing this problem?
 

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He's got too much of a load on it, for too long.

Kills em every time, just takes a while.

A new battery and a new alternator plus a capacitor will give em a few more years !;)
 

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WOW! Stock alt and battery with no big 3 upgrade I'm guessing. 105 an alt has to be marginal at best for keeping up. Did your headlights dim when the radio was up?
 

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It could be anything causing the drain (not necessarily the amps- but they could as well) It could just be a bad battery, or the alt. The alt in those is not easy to replace if you have a v6. Did you replace the previous battery because of this issue or is this issue happeing on htis battery only?
 

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Discussion Starter #11
No big 3 upgrade. This is new battery I just got it sometime this year, I was having these problems with the previous battery too, so that's why I got a new battery. The lights do dim when the bass hits.
 

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It's a V6
Hopefully the alt isn't the issue.

I wouldn't worry about the "big 3" as that won't cause the bat to drain after it sits. There has to be a drain somewhere. Have you checked all dome lights, cargo lights , visors, etc.

One way to eliminate the stereo is to pull the main fuse from your power wire next time you plan on it sitting for a couple of days and see if the issue is still there.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
I've unplugged the power wire from the amps and let it sit before: same problem, battery still dies. If I do get a new alternator ill look into getting one more powerful than the stock 105 amps.
 

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Well, that eliminates the amps/stereo. Before condemming the alt, try to see where the drain is happening. Theres some good videos on youtube for finding out where it may be. Unfortunately, the battery is probably going to need to replaced at some point after you find the issue as it isn't meant to be discharged too much.
 

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Well, that eliminates the amps/stereo. Before condemming the alt, try to see where the drain is happening. Theres some good videos on youtube for finding out where it may be. Unfortunately, the battery is probably going to need to replaced at some point after you find the issue as it isn't meant to be discharged too much.
I'm having the same issue, with a different vehicle, it's from wanging too hard on a stock electrical system. The Battery takes up the slack.. and cells start dying.. You'd be better suited in looking for an alt+battery(s).

Big 3 would help with power flow from the alt to the system, but it won't help your immediate issue.

Hope this helps.:confused:
 

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To find a battery drain, unhook the positive battery post and put a multimeter in between the battery post and battery clamp. Set the multimeter to read amperage. Then go through and pull one relay or fuse at a time and see when your current flow drops. When it drops, you have found the circuit where your battery drain is happening. After that you can figure out how to proceed with fixing it.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Didnt get a new alt or bat. Still having the same problem with battery drain. I don't have the tools right now to test if there is a drain with the car off right now. When I figure out what the drain is, if there is one, ill replace the alt/bat after. For now just running the car daily to keep a charge, and have cables/charger if I need a jump.
 

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i believe the main issue is not the alt/battery, although it is possible to have a battery with an internal load causing the drain, it's not likely. You probably have a parasitic draw where some circuit in the car is remaining on while the car is off. as previously mentioned, you need to get a multimeter with dc amperage measurement. you can probably find one for under $30. plug the test leads into the correct ports for this type of measurement, set it to DC amperage setting. then follow what jking29 said. do this an post back here what measurement you found. if it's above 40-50milliamps (0.05A) then you have a problem and his steps of pulling fuses will isolate which circuit it is. if it's under 35milliamps that's usually normal
 
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