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I'm restoring a two-door classic truck where the rear quarter panels are open(!) to the outside world. I've mostly got a blank slate. It is, however, my first time building a system from scratch. I've done lots of research here and elsewhere. So here's my proposal. Just a few ground rules:
  • You can only use a single amp. I'd prefer to keep the wiring simple.
  • You've got to use these weird HLCD horns. They are cool and new to me and I vibe to them irrationally. Also they fit really well under the old-style flat dash.
  • You've got to build with an eye toward SQL.
The SALT 1700.5 should support ~70w to each horn (at 8ohms), 220w to each midrange (at 2ohms) and 800w to the subs combined when wired in parallel (4ohms each).

Can you beat this system? What would you change? Here's a link to a couple diagrams:
Product Rectangle Font Automotive lighting Technology


Some pointed questions:
  1. Is there a more appropriate amplifier that can drive all of this?
  2. Is it okay for the subs to face each other like that? They'll be on opposite sides of the truck, so five or six feet between them.
  3. I propose the subs wired in parallel to get the most power out of the amp. Is that right? Can I wire them more appropriately for better output?
  4. Did I get the wiring gauges right? Lots of info on this on web forums but some of it is conflicting.
  5. Will I be able to do hair tricks with this system? LOL
Thanks everyone for your help. I've learned so much from this forum!
 

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2018 Honda Accord EXL 2.0 GB 3way doors GB40/10 centre Helix M4dsp/M6 Sundown salt MMats + more
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I would go with the hifi-6150. I have the salt 400.2 and after about 3 hours of play time it would go into protect and would not turn back on until the car was shut off. It was over 100° outside and my amp space has 0 ventilation at the moment. It was a vagas run. But my MMATS barely even got warm on the 6 hours back. Now if you over heat that salt you'll loose your whole system I only lost my front sub and I wasn't jumping out of the hwy just to reset it.

 

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2018 Honda Accord EXL 2.0 GB 3way doors GB40/10 centre Helix M4dsp/M6 Sundown salt MMats + more
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And as far as wire gauge if your already willing to run 2 gauge, why not 0. I will never run anything less from now on. What if you want to upgrade later and that 2 gauge isn't enough. Not saying you going to but you never know. I rather have it and not need it then need it and not have it.
 

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I wouldn't worry so much about different speaker wires, unless you have wire or are trying to save money where you can. Just run 12ga to your highs and maybe step up to 10ga for the subs. I would also fuse get a distribution block back where your amp and DSP are going to be (keep the fuse at the battery) and wire the DSP to that instead of a separate power wire, you can get a 5amp (or what ever it calls for) fuse for the DSP side. You can even use some of your 12ga speaker wire for that.

I don't think you will get hair tricks off of a pair of IB 12's, sorry. :)
 

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I'm restoring a two-door classic truck where the rear quarter panels are open(!) to the outside world. I've mostly got a blank slate. It is, however, my first time building a system from scratch. I've done lots of research here and elsewhere. So here's my proposal. Just a few ground rules:
  • You can only use a single amp. I'd prefer to keep the wiring simple.
  • You've got to use these weird HLCD horns. They are cool and new to me and I vibe to them irrationally. Also they fit really well under the old-style flat dash.
  • You've got to build with an eye toward SQL.
The SALT 1700.5 should support ~70w to each horn (at 8ohms), 220w to each midrange (at 2ohms) and 800w to the subs combined when wired in parallel (4ohms each).

Can you beat this system? What would you change? Here's a link to a couple diagrams:
View attachment 343690

Some pointed questions:
  1. Is there a more appropriate amplifier that can drive all of this?
  2. Is it okay for the subs to face each other like that? They'll be on opposite sides of the truck, so five or six feet between them.
  3. I propose the subs wired in parallel to get the most power out of the amp. Is that right? Can I wire them more appropriately for better output?
  4. Did I get the wiring gauges right? Lots of info on this on web forums but some of it is conflicting.
  5. Will I be able to do hair tricks with this system? LOL
Thanks everyone for your help. I've learned so much from this forum!
Have spent more time than I probably should have trying to find a better amplifier for you as I worry about possible noise floor problems with the HLCDs under the dash. Not that the SALT or MiniDSP are in any way inherently noisy but this setup holds a special place in my heart both for the equipment and the classic truck which all warm this old man's heart... make sure you're using resistor plugs and wires to help combat RF and a quality ignition controller...
So without continuing to prattle on - here goes:
  1. Maybe - but it might send you down the rabbit hole (or the wallet hole) even more
  2. Yes, the opposed subs are fine since the frequencies they are going to be reproducing are longer than the distance between them you shouldn't have any problems and if you do get some cancellation you have the DSP to make changes to fix the problem.
  3. Yes, 2xS4 in parallel for a final 2 ohm load is as good as you can do without going to a possible 1 ohm setup which would require different subs as the AEIBs are not available in D4 or S2 configuration.
  4. Wire gauge is all about length, depends on the distance from the Electrical to the Amp and from the Amp to the Subs - with that being said it never hurts to go bigger on the Low Frequency and Power Wiring.
    • 1/0 OFC Welding Cable for the Power
      • No Mention of Battery or Alternator? Quality AGM and 140-180A Alternator suggested.
    • Subs - whatever the binding post size is on the smallest end (amp/driver.)
    • Mids and Highs are fine.
  5. Maybe? You might get some hair tricks but 2 x 12 is a little on the small side for this, especially at "only" 800W and with a vehicle of this era you're going to have to go over every inch of the interior and seal it up as there are multiple holes (drains, electrical and otherwise) in the cabin that will conflict with this... newer vehicles are much better sealed from the factory which makes this much easier.
 
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Hrm. This just links to the forum for me. Is there a particular thread I should look at? For any particular reason?
Stoopid Crap-a-Talk on the phone...
 

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Air is highly compressible. The idea that you need a ten inch cut out for a twelve inch woofer in an infinite baffle is a bit silly. I've used compression ratios of four to one with no real issue.

With a four-to-one compression ratio, you would be "pushing" all the output of a 12" woofer through a hole that's six inches in diameter.

The main thing you'll have to be careful of is how much power you're using; if you're using a LOT, the pressure generated can cause noise or even damage the sub.

 

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Air is highly compressible. The idea that you need a ten inch cut out for a twelve inch woofer in an infinite baffle is a bit silly. I've used compression ratios of four to one with no real issue.

With a four-to-one compression ratio, you would be "pushing" all the output of a 12" woofer through a hole that's six inches in diameter.

The main thing you'll have to be careful of is how much power you're using; if you're using a LOT, the pressure generated can cause noise or even damage the sub.

"Air is highly compressible."

Exactly - and that's the reason you want a big hole because air's so easily compressed which affects the Q of the enclosure and changes the driver's alignment dynamically at different power levels.

How much hole you "need" is dependent on power level, excursion, cabin gain and a host of other variables that are not readily calculated. The best course of action is to install and then use DATS to verify Qtc after installation and then enlarge the hole incrementally as needed to get the alignment you need for the install.

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