[tspence73]

Hi all,

Someday I will want to try a fully active system with a mid/tweet in an A-pillar custom mount. So... I will want to crossover ideally at 300Hz with a 36 or 48db/octave highpass slope but can settle for a 500Hz 48db/octave slope. I will need to select a mid that can output quality sound near-field. I've noticed some mids sound better at a bit of a distance but when you put them up close they can sound tinny/shallow and lack a certain 'rich' depth that I like.

I wish I could transfer my 6.5's to my A-pillar but that's just ridiculous looking. I've had my eye on a Tang Band 3" textile dome midrange which I think would match the sonic character of my Infintiy Ref silk dome tweet. What would be decent candidates? Here is a picture of what my A-pillar looks like:

 

[basher8621]

What is your budget?

 

[tspence73]

What is your budget?

Up to $300 to $400 (preferably less) for a pair of mids. I figure anything above that price range is likely diminishing returns or a ripoff.

 

[basher8621]

Some good mid ranges to look at would be the Hybrid L3 a Morel CDM-54 or 88 that is a little smaller than a 3" and is a dome speaker. Dynaudio also has a dome mid range. But the best thing to do is to try and listen to some speakers if possible and see of you like them.

 

[GlasSman]

If I were to use a 3" in the A-Pillar I would use a Hybrid Audio.

They've proven themselves in that capacity.

I will never give up the dynamics and volume capabilities of a 6.5" midrange.....I'm just too use to it.

 

[ErinH]

Hi all,

Someday I will want to try a fully active system with a mid/tweet in an A-pillar custom mount. So... I will want to crossover ideally at 300Hz with a 36 or 48db/octave highpass slope but can settle for a 500Hz 48db/octave slope. I will need to select a mid that can output quality sound near-field. I've noticed some mids sound better at a bit of a distance but when you put them up close they can sound tinny/shallow and lack a certain 'rich' depth that I like.

I wish I could transfer my 6.5's to my A-pillar but that's just ridiculous looking. I've had my eye on a Tang Band 3" textile dome midrange which I think would match the sonic character of my Infintiy Ref silk dome tweet. What would be decent candidates? Here is a picture of what my A-pillar looks like:

A couple things.

1. When is ‘someday’? Next week, or 3 months? If the latter then I don’t really see the point in picking one right now. Maybe narrowing down a few.

2. You’re already picking your x-over points without knowing the driver. This can be alright, but I don’t think its wise. Why would you try to limit yourself before getting started?

3. Furthermore, why would you want to cross a midrange at 300hz or even 500hz? Midranges carry the midrange… I wouldn’t want to split that up if I could avoid it. Maybe 300hz… but definitely not higher. I think if it can’t play well to 250hz then you should look at something else. IMO, of course. I prefer to cover as much of the midrange as possible with a single driver.

4. 6.5’s in the pillar is silly, to me, too.

5. Why do you think the tang band would match the tonality (I’m assuming sonic character = tonality) of your infinities? Have you heard them? I wouldn’t assume anything like that until you’ve heard them. I’ve only had a handful of midrange drivers but they all varied drastically.

6. Do you think you’d prefer on-axis install or off-axis? This question is pretty much in stark contrast to my #2 above, but it’s something to consider since they are closely related and I have a feeling you’ll ignore my #2.

 

[tspence73]

A couple things.

1. When is ‘someday’? Next week, or 3 months? If the latter then I don’t really see the point in picking one right now. Maybe narrowing down a few.

It won't be for many months. Maybe a year. But it never hurts to research long in advance.

2. You’re already picking your x-over points without knowing the driver. This can be alright, but I don’t think its wise. Why would you try to limit yourself before getting started?

I'm hoping for the MS-8 processor but if it doesn't come out, I'll look into ones that give ultra-steep slopes on their crossovers. I think that the key to high passing the mids at 300-500Hz will be a VERY steep slope.

3. Furthermore, why would you want to cross a midrange at 300hz or even 500hz? Midranges carry the midrange… I wouldn’t want to split that up if I could avoid it. Maybe 300hz… but definitely not higher. I think if it can’t play well to 250hz then you should look at something else. IMO, of course. I prefer to cover as much of the midrange as possible with a single driver.

The A-pillar is the best place for on-axis dispersion and gives the best chance for perfect imaging. The only problem is that the size restrictions of the drivers limit how low I can get the driver to play. Hence, the idea for a steep slope crossover to allow the mid to get as low as possible and to choke off as much midrange from the door midbass driver and keep as much of the image up high as possible.

4. 6.5’s in the pillar is silly, to me, too.

Yeah, ridiculous is more like it.

5. Why do you think the tang band would match the tonality (I’m assuming sonic character = tonality) of your infinities? Have you heard them? I wouldn’t assume anything like that until you’ve heard them. I’ve only had a handful of midrange drivers but they all varied drastically.

I'm only assuming that because both are a fabric-based dome type driver with similar design. I'm assuming because that's all I can do. I can't hear the driver until it's installed and played back. I'm just making an educated guess. It's not by any means a guaranteed match but I think has a shot of being right.

6. Do you think you’d prefer on-axis install or off-axis? This question is pretty much in stark contrast to my #2 above, but it’s something to consider since they are closely related and I have a feeling you’ll ignore my #2.

On axis. That would be the point of moving them up to the A-pillar. To get a higher image and unobstructed dispersion of the sound. Right now I think the sound in my vehicle is fantastic but I still wonder what it could sound like with more tinkering. I always planned on buying a high-end digital sound processor anyway. I figure once I pull that trigger I might as well take it to the next level. So, I just wanted to start looking into the possibilities of the A-pillar route.

 

[falkenbd]

do you form these opinions and ideas on your own or spit stuff out that you heard somewhere???

i mean why in the world would you all of a sudden know that you want to cross your mids at 48 db/oct when you haven't even heard the mids you are getting, or know which ones. What makes you think that would sound the best?

There are tons of threads on midranges here, start reading them.

 

[Andy Jones]

Welcome to The Autophile! The point source driver offered by the Autophile should also be considered.

It won't play down to 250hz like bikinpunk is suggesting, but it (nor other any other midrange driver) isn't required to in a properly set up system.

I would give it a look. Price might be more than you are looking at, but it is one helluva driver.

 

[ErinH]

Welcome to The Autophile! The point source driver offered by the Autophile should also be considered.

It won't play down to 250hz like bikinpunk is suggesting, but it (nor other any other midrange driver) isn't required to in a properly set up system.

I would give it a look. Price might be more than you are looking at, but it is one helluva driver.

That does look pretty sweet, Andy.

250hz is kind of just what seems to work in my car in the past. I just can't avoid getting the 'pull' of the midbasses if I go any higher than that. I agree with you completely, it's all based on install. Most people can make anything work if they want. I just seem to have found what doesn't work well for me.

 

[Scott Buwalda]

As someone had suggested earlier, a true 3" cone midrange driver, that can play easily to sub 200 Hz: http://hybrid-audio.com/Legatia L3.pdf and easily fits into your budget.

Scott

 

[SQplease]

If you are going to go three way active, I would use the morel cdm88, that transition well with silk tweets, and will go as low as 450hz no problem all the way to 7000, but I stop mine at 2500, just because I have great tweets, but this is one option

 

[Mic10is]

Welcome to The Autophile! The point source driver offered by the Autophile should also be considered.

It won't play down to 250hz like bikinpunk is suggesting, but it (nor other any other midrange driver) isn't required to in a properly set up system.

I would give it a look. Price might be more than you are looking at, but it is one helluva driver.

what he said. Ive been using them for over a year and absolutely love them.

 

[michaelsil1]

Welcome to The Autophile! The point source driver offered by the Autophile should also be considered.

It won't play down to 250hz like bikinpunk is suggesting, but it (nor other any other midrange driver) isn't required to in a properly set up system.

I would give it a look. Price might be more than you are looking at, but it is one helluva driver.

Suggested Retail Price: $1,599.00

Is that for one Mid Bass Driver?

 

[King Nothing]

what he said. Ive been using them for over a year and absolutely love them.

Those look nice. Whats the street price on those. 1600 MSRP is STEEP

 

[Miska]

Better have a set of wet lips on the front for $1600.00

Sorry I thought it was just for the mids

Its still steep even for a 3-way setup

 

[michaelsil1]

Better have a set of wet lips on the front for $1600.00

I paid small fortune for mine and they still won't put out. :lips:

 

[autofile]

The 3-way system sell for $1600 including the midbass drivers.
Our 3" coincident source driver sell for $800 per pair.

Suggested Retail Price: $1,599.00

Is that for one Mid Bass Driver?

 

[michaelsil1]

The 3-way system sell for $1600 including the midbass drivers.
Our 3" coincident source driver sell for $800 per pair.

That must be one hell of a Mid Range Driver.

Are there any specs available?

 

[t3sn4f2]

That must be one hell of a Mid Range Driver.

Are there any specs available?

and tweeter