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What's your budget?
How high do the need to play?
How low do they need to play?
How loud do they need to play?
How will they be installed?

IDK how anyone could possibly respond to this thread without at least having those answered for guidance :rolleyes:

What's the best body style for a car?
What's the best cell phone?
What's the best washing machine?
What's the best looking woman?
selma hyack and chakira 馃槀馃槀
 

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2018 Honda Accord EXL 2.0 GB 3way doors GB40/10 centre Helix M4dsp/M6 Sundown salt MMats + more
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They only have 1. They will back order the one you order.
Says so on the left in the pic.
Order that **** if you want. Youll be buying 2 most likely.
Lol so they'll take the money and hopefully one day ship it.
 

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I have this car and deadened sh*t out of doors. And I had the different possible speakers too! Yet still something is rattling/ the tactile feedback to the leg annoys me/ dips - 125hz on left side, etc. And it's only 6.5inch speaker.
The sound is ok, but no comparison to my tests with putting the same speakers in the kicks.

No magic speaker will solve this.
 

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Yeah, they will be going in doors. Need something that will put out a surprising amount of thump. Id like focusing on the midbass (50hz-100hz) more then the lower sub hz(<50) for my system. Its what I prefer after having multiple setups, thats why focusing on what would give the best response regardless of price. Jus dont wanna go over 8-9' or use a subwoofer in doors.

I do already have the skannings as mentioned, but seeings if theres anymore suggestions comparable to those.
Do you already have a system in this vehicle that is using other midbass or midwoofer drivers in your lower front door locations? If so, have you done any measurements to confirm where your cancellation nulls are ocurring?

IMO, I would use the Skannings since you already have them (fantastic drivers) AND since you want midbass drivers that will be installed in the doors, even though their properties are better suited to use in a good 2-way front stage.

Why? Unless your vehicle is very unique, you can't get around the common midbass cancellation nulls that result from using the OEM lower front door locations for midbass. So installing larger, more powerful midbass drivers will have the same cancellation issues and will just inject more resonances and vibration into the doors with not a lot more output at your listening position and/or in the passband where you need it. The "better" midbass drivers will just be flapping in & out much harder with no perceptible increase in SPL where you really need it.

Use the Skannings in the front doors, but from ~65Hz+ and up (HP about one octave above Fs if you aren't going to build some type of appropriate enclosures in the doors), then use a ~10" subwoofer in the front passenger side footwell that fires towards the firewall and is tucked in close to the passenger corner in order to help fill in the null(s).

That's just what I would do IF my midbass drivers have to be located in the lower front door locations. And/or as someone else mentioned, use your existing rear subwoofer to fill in the null if possible. You have to experiment a bit with this because depending on multiple factors it's not always guaranteed to provide an improvement. But in many instances it works quite well. Like with any choice we make, there might be other tradeoffs. You just have to determine which tradeoff is more acceptable and bothers you the least and offers the best overall result.
 

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Discussion Starter · #28 ·
Do you already have a system in this vehicle that is using other midbass or midwoofer drivers in your lower front door locations? If so, have you done any measurements to confirm where your cancellation nulls are ocurring?

IMO, I would use the Skannings since you already have them (fantastic drivers) AND since you want midbass drivers that will be installed in the doors, even though their properties are better suited to use in a good 2-way front stage.

Why? Unless your vehicle is very unique, you can't get around the common midbass cancellation nulls that result from using the OEM lower front door locations for midbass. So installing larger, more powerful midbass drivers will have the same cancellation issues and will just inject more resonances and vibration into the doors with not a lot more output at your listening position and/or in the passband where you need it. The "better" midbass drivers will just be flapping in & out much harder with no perceptible increase in SPL where you really need it.

Use the Skannings in the front doors, but from ~65Hz+ and up (HP about one octave above Fs if you aren't going to build some type of appropriate enclosures in the doors), then use a ~10" subwoofer in the front passenger side footwell that fires towards the firewall and is tucked in close to the passenger corner in order to help fill in the null(s).

That's just what I would do IF my midbass drivers have to be located in the lower front door locations. And/or as someone else mentioned, use your existing rear subwoofer to fill in the null if possible. You have to experiment a bit with this because depending on multiple factors it's not always guaranteed to provide an improvement. But in many instances it works quite well. Like with any choice we make, there might be other tradeoffs. You just have to determine which tradeoff is more acceptable and bothers you the least and offers the best overall result.
First time system will be going in this vehicle, so not exactly sure about the cancellation issues. And thank you so much for the informative response. Seems like 60hz+ would be the sweet spot for these midbasses, and for sure the doors will be treated tremendously. I just feel a bit weary about running a sub in the footwell (seems to me may cause SQ issues), but have never tried/or listened to a vehicle equppied with it.

" The "better" midbass drivers will just be flapping in & out much harder with no perceptible increase in SPL where you really need it. "

I did experience this exact issue in my previous vehicle where I used the Zr labs no掳1 6.5. I would notice the midbass flapping in and out hard but with not much output. I then used my sub 1200 esotar to fill in much of what was lacking, which helped quite a bit but still not what I desired.

Skanning les go!
 

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I just feel a bit weary about running a sub in the footwell (seems to me may cause SQ issues), but have never tried/or listened to a vehicle equppied with it.
My current solution to fill 45-100hz. Didn't finish yet (still fitting the front wall). 8inch sub. This is the second glovebox I'm building and I already heard it in this location. The speaker will look forward into the firewall.
The best thing is that I will still keep the airbag and the panel under it and use OEM fixing points.
I don't think that any 6.5 inch midbass in doors will outperform a good 8 inch sub. The sub is ~100-200$. And this way you can cross the midbass higher at ~90-100hz increasing the output and minimizing the rattles.
I also tried to build footwell subs, but too much legroom will be lost, if you're ok with that - go for it, and it's much easier to do.

Doors:
  • the midbass is 100% isolated from playing under the door card
  • OEM grill was redone so it's installed at the end (added magnets).
 

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I would add to the list Purifi 8"

do you know MRSP of ZR Lab 8 drivers?
Brax 8 - midbass and also consider Brax 8" SW which will give a bit more low end (Ask AudioGal for those since she run both models)
How and where are you planning to install those drivers?
 

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Discussion Starter · #34 ·
I would add to the list Purifi 8"

do you know MRSP of ZR Lab 8 drivers?
Brax 8 - midbass and also consider Brax 8" SW which will give a bit more low end (Ask AudioGal for those since she run both models)
How and where are you planning to install those drivers?
Msrp on the zr labs is around 4500 Euros shipped, they are more of a subwoofer but are 9inch and can be used as a midbass.. 馃

Consdering in doors.. will fabricate and whatever needs to be done to get it fit.
 

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Msrp on the zr labs is around 4500 Euros shipped, they are more of a subwoofer but are 9inch and can be used as a midbass.. 馃

Consdering in doors.. will fabricate and whatever needs to be done to get it fit.
Well, Im more than familiar with all ZR Speaker Lab drivers, was holding those 8" when they were first samples out of production....
 

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Msrp on the zr labs is around 4500 Euros shipped, they are more of a subwoofer but are 9inch and can be used as a midbass.. 馃

Consdering in doors.. will fabricate and whatever needs to be done to get it fit.
Spending that much on doors will be an exercise in futility鈥 you鈥檙e left hand drive and have lots of room, I鈥檇 go kick panels every second of the week

You鈥檝e already said about 6.5鈥 drivers flapping around but making no sound at certain freqs, that is due to the location, pure and simple鈥 an eight will make more output low down and the exact same amount of energy in the reflection, so they will also do the same flapping about motions and give the same lack lustre midbass with worse rattles to boot鈥

you may have noticed I do not like doors as a midbass location, and don鈥檛 get me started about position of the centre in the stage with doors鈥 very different to mids and tweeters normally so you then have to fudge the eq/labels to get a centre back in the centre 馃様
 

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you鈥檙e left hand drive and have lots of room, I鈥檇 go kick panels every second of the week
100% agreed, as I have the same vehicle and done everything I could to the doors. They sound decent. And I have one of the best 6.5 midbass and a pretty good amp - Zapco 150.2 LX.

Now this was a quick test of the same midbass in the right kick/floor (don't look at the esthetics)- I had a hole there after trying to install a front sub there.
I was blown away by the same midbass in that location.There's so much output in ~80-200hz area, tight kick.
There's an enclosure of ~4-5L + a vent to the rails. It's also possible to do IB. So experiments need to be done with the inside enclosure.
Now I will try to install the second midbass in the drivers location, it's harder because of the pedals (especially emergency stop pedal).
 

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Discussion Starter · #39 ·
Well, Im more than familiar with all ZR Speaker Lab drivers, was holding those 8" when they were first samples out of production....
That must of been nice to hold those beauties! I believe they are the best looking drivers ever made... how was the size in comparasion to an 8 inch midbass?
Spending that much on doors will be an exercise in futility鈥 you鈥檙e left hand drive and have lots of room, I鈥檇 go kick panels every second of the week

You鈥檝e already said about 6.5鈥 drivers flapping around but making no sound at certain freqs, that is due to the location, pure and simple鈥 an eight will make more output low down and the exact same amount of energy in the reflection, so they will also do the same flapping about motions and give the same lack lustre midbass with worse rattles to boot鈥

you may have noticed I do not like doors as a midbass location, and don鈥檛 get me started about position of the centre in the stage with doors鈥 very different to mids and tweeters normally so you then have to fudge the eq/labels to get a centre back in the centre 馃様
This is really intresting.. will give it a deep thought. Not exactly sure which car i'll be going with since i decided not to go with the lexus yet due to finding out it was a normal package, and the double glazed/laminated windows only comes in the ultra package, and that is one of the main things I was looking forward to in the car due to immense reduction in road noise/viabrations compared to a non-laminated window car.

If yall have any good suggestions for a car that would compensate a great build let me know. Im looking for a 4 door luxury sedan, or a 2 door luxury coupe. 2 cars in mind were the 2000 lexus LS430 or 2019 benz S550 coupe(could go with s63 but no point in extra noise need a smooth quiet ride). Price for vehicle is not too much of an issue have a budget of 100k.(lexus 20k/s550 90k)

Cheers all and thank you so much for the help, suggestions and support!
 
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