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Discussion Starter #1
Hey guys I'm new to the forum and had a few questions regarding a system I'm designing for my cousin.

I was planning on using my old box that I made to jl specs (ported and tuned to 32 hz) 2 10s side by side but individual enclosures. Going on top of the backseat in a 06 f-150 ext cab.

I have been using a profile clarus(sp?) 1200w amp for years and love it but they don't make them anymore. I run mine at 2 ohms per sub and I think RMS is around 450 each. Love my setup, want his to be close to mine.

What cheap amp would work for him?
(under $300)

Thanks
 

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Welcome to the forum!!! Well you are going to want something that puts out about 800 watts or clean RMS power. Really those subs sound great at 400rms each, I know as I have one in my mustang. Kind of sucks that you have two fairly bad ass subs and you are trying to budget one of the important components. Hit the classifieds. Maybe you can find an old school PPI, Kenwood, maybe an Orion in your budget.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Also- if he were to get a two channel, like 450x2 @ 2 ohms, could he just hook up one channel to one sub and buy the other sub later?

Would this cause any damage to sub or amp leaving one channel open for a while?

He is in high school so just trying to get him goin...

Thanks
 

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A good, new Amp for two up w6 subs. Well it is black Friday. Not saying it isn't possible.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
What about a hifonics hfi1000d ?
Running at 1ohm should get the power I'm looking for...
Any experience with them anyone?
 

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What about a hifonics hfi1000d ?
Running at 1ohm should get the power I'm looking for...
Any experience with them anyone?
I am familiar with them. But aren't the JL W6v2 subs 2ohm and strongly recommended not to be ran less than that? Hence why they wire the dual coils themselves and create one set of terminals. The Hifi1000 only puts out 700-750rms at 2 ohms. Looking at my W610v2 manual there is a little thing under the 2ohm vs 8ohm warning and power chart that says:

JL Audio offers an extensive line of high-performance subwoofer drivers to fit a wide variety of enclosure and power applications. When designing systems with our drivers, it is very important to achieve a good power match between the subwoofer amplifier and the subwoofer driver's capabilities. The power levels listed in the above chart represent continuous (RMS) amplifier power per woofer and assume that the user will regularly make full use of that power without drastically overdriving the amplifier(s). Make sure you factor system impedance and the total number of subwoofers into your calculations. Adhering to these power recommendations will result in systems that are both reliable and enjoyable.

I would say run the amp at 2 ohms per sub (approx 400 rms) and see how it sounds. I would hate to see something bad happen if you resisted them down to 1 ohm.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
I was going to leave each sub at 2ohms, wire them in parallel with the amp, therefor creating 1ohms total
System resistance to maximize the amps power. I do not see how this would damage the subs (as I am not messing with their wiring) and am creating the system for 1 ohm resistance.

Also, there is no way for me to get to 2 ohms together without having two amps or at least two channels 2+2=4 or 2+2=1. 8+8=16 or 8+8=4.

What do u think?
 

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Yep. Both at 2 ohms resisting the amp at one should work.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
I have been reading a lot of the threads about going down to 1 ohm and am weary bc I have never done it.
From what I understand:
I might lose some sound quality (shouldn't be too noticeable though?)

Should be ok of the system and amp are designed for it?

Thanks for the help!
 

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I have been reading a lot of the threads about going down to 1 ohm and am weary bc I have never done it.
From what I understand:
I might lose some sound quality (shouldn't be too noticeable though?)

Should be ok of the system and amp are designed for it?

Thanks for the help!
From personal experience, you get what you pay for. If it is an lower end amp, but is rated at one ohm, go ahead and run it at one ohm! However just follow the basic rules. Don't invert it, give it plenty of room to breath, make sure you use proper awg wire, etc... etc...

If it were a higher end amp you can probably invert it, and not have to worry about it getting warm under big loads, but still follow the awg rules.

That is why I pointed you at the Alpine. I have ran those. Yes they get warm when pushed to the extreme, but man are they super efficient and would push your subs without breaking a sweat. VERY small too. Perfect for your truck application. 1000 Watts........at 4 ohms, or 2 ohms. Super awesome.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
It will be mounted on top of the box sitting on top of the seats do it will have a few feet of breathing room.

Also I will probably use 2 gauge wire (I think that's what I have in mine right now, will check tomorrow- might be 4 tho)
My dads an electrical engineer so it WILL be wired properly! Lol
 

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Hey guys I'm new to the forum and had a few questions regarding a system I'm designing for my cousin.

I was planning on using my old box that I made to jl specs (ported and tuned to 32 hz) 2 10s side by side but individual enclosures. Going on top of the backseat in a 06 f-150 ext cab.

I have been using a profile clarus(sp?) 1200w amp for years and love it but they don't make them anymore. I run mine at 2 ohms per sub and I think RMS is around 450 each. Love my setup, want his to be close to mine.

What cheap amp would work for him?
(under $300)

Thanks
Keep checking the classified section until something pops up...good luck
 

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It will be mounted on top of the box sitting on top of the seats do it will have a few feet of breathing room.

Also I will probably use 2 gauge wire (I think that's what I have in mine right now, will check tomorrow- might be 4 tho)
My dads an electrical engineer so it WILL be wired properly! Lol
Oh, I thought you were doing an under the seat sub enclosure. On the seat is cool too. Here is a chart for yah.

 
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