[audioi]

Im sure this has been covered in the past but I have seen other companies popping up as suppliers so what is todays hot setup to calm down road noise and tire noise?

 

[kanadian-kaos]

CLICK THIS: ----->How to.

1. Deadener 2. Closed cell foam (de coupler) 3. Mass Loaded Vinyl

Some people have also mentioned 3 thinsulate. Expensive, but seems interesting.

 

[DrunkPanda]

Package # 1 -------- 20 Sheets of RAAMmat BXT II (37.5 sq ft) and 3 yards of Ensolite IUO Peel and Stick Foam (41.625 sq ft) - RAAMaudio Inc.

... that's what I ended up going with... there's a ton of different companies out there... some as asphalt-based (smells awful), some don't meet heat requirements of hotter climates (will melt), and some don't actually sound deaden very well... so if you find something cheaper than that... be wary

 

[Holmz]

Im sure this has been covered in the past but I have seen other companies popping up as suppliers so what is todays hot setup to calm down road noise and tire noise?

Tires that make less noise are best... then you fix it at the source.
You either:
1 stop it at the source,
2 Stop it from entering the body
3 suck it up (attenuate it) from the body
4 keep it from leaving the body into the cabin's airspace.

The noise either comes through as telegraphed through the suspension, or through the air.
The whole bottom of the vehicle sees the ground, where the noise is at, like a transmission line or accoustic version of coax.

Many OEM cars have soft rubber and a lot of attention for the suspension points to isolate the wheels. If those have been replaced with ureathane or something else, then expect more noise through the steel.

 

[audioi]

Tires that make less noise are best... then you fix it at the source.
You either:
1 stop it at the source,
2 Stop it from entering the body
3 suck it up (attenuate it) from the body
4 keep it from leaving the body into the cabin's airspace.

The noise either comes through as telegraphed through the suspension, or through the air.
The whole bottom of the vehicle sees the ground, where the noise is at, like a transmission line or accoustic version of coax.

Many OEM cars have soft rubber and a lot of attention for the suspension points to isolate the wheels. If those have been replaced with ureathane or something else, then expect more noise through the steel.

All good points! Because these tires are like new and perfectly balanced I plan to try dampening and sound proofing first, maybe I am wet dreaming thinking I can shave off 3~4 db of ambient cabin noise but I still plan to give it a go and if that fails then buy tires. Any suggestions of materials to use? Its a 981 Boxster.

 

[Holmz]

All good points! Because these tires are like new and perfectly balanced I plan to try dampening and sound proofing first, maybe I am wet dreaming thinking I can shave off 3~4 db of ambient cabin noise but I still plan to give it a go and if that fails then buy tires. Any suggestions of materials to use? Its a 981 Boxster.

Using a passenger with a small sound meter would give you a baseline at stopped, at idle and at 60mph.

Assuming that sound is the tyres beating against the bitumen and then impinging in the underside: one would want a material on the underside to prevent that
Products - LIQUID VIBRATION COATINGS - * MADE IN THE USA * - Spectrum Sludge™ - Second Skin Audio

Assuming it is through the suspension exciting the chassis directly then you would want to dampen the chassis:
Products - VIBRATION DAMPERS - CLD * MADE IN THE USA * - Damplifier Pro™ - Second Skin Audio

In either of the above cases isolating the chassis from the interior would help:
Luxury car quiet with our noise insulation products Luxury Liner™ Luxury Liner Pro™ | Second Skin Audio, Made in the USA.

I am no expert, so seeking guidance from a professional may be wise.

 

[mumbles]

For vibration of panels, you'd want to use your typical Dynamat type sheets.

Since your issue is tire/road noise, applying closed cell foam and covering that with mass loaded vinyl would be appropriate.

 

[Holmz]

For vibration of panels, you'd want to use your typical Dynamat type sheets.

Since your issue is tire/road noise, applying closed cell foam and covering that with mass loaded vinyl would be appropriate.

Is that right?

Do you want the dynamat on the bottom, and then the foam on top?
Or
Foam and then dynamat on top?

 

[juiceweazel]

Package # 1 -------- 20 Sheets of RAAMmat BXT II (37.5 sq ft) and 3 yards of Ensolite IUO Peel and Stick Foam (41.625 sq ft) - RAAMaudio Inc.

... that's what I ended up going with... there's a ton of different companies out there... some as asphalt-based (smells awful), some don't meet heat requirements of hotter climates (will melt), and some don't actually sound deaden very well... so if you find something cheaper than that... be wary

This is a good price, but don't you need the MLV? And this looks to be enough to do a small 2 door coupe? What were your results with just this package?

 

[Lanson]

Is that right?

Do you want the dynamat on the bottom, and then the foam on top?
Or
Foam and then dynamat on top?

CLD on substrate
Foam decoupler
MLV over that if anywhere, loose as possible

Also, I had good luck with a foil - foam - foil product called Low E, a radiant barrier. I did lots of Knu Kolossus (best deadener for my needs, and I've tried a bunch...disappointed with all the rest except for SDS tiles), then added the Low-E and used scrim tape, then laid down the factory carpet. The Low-E was much lighter than MLV, but had many of the same properties. This project was a Vette, so going MLV and weighing it down was not an option.

I've also had acceptable luck with big, thick neoprene. She ain't MLV but in thicker portions like 1/4", it still does a great job with the usual noises.

Honestly, any steps you take toward deadening pay off pretty handsomely. I say that quality CLD like Knu Kolossus or SDS tiles are probably the most important out of all of the steps though.

 

[Holmz]

CLD on substrate
Foam decoupler
MLV over that if anywhere, loose as possible

Also, I had good luck with a foil - foam - foil product called Low E, a radiant barrier. I did lots of Knu Kolossus (best deadener for my needs, and I've tried a bunch...disappointed with all the rest except for SDS tiles), then added the Low-E and used scrim tape, then laid down the factory carpet. The Low-E was much lighter than MLV, but had many of the same properties. This project was a Vette, so going MLV and weighing it down was not an option.

I've also had acceptable luck with big, thick neoprene. She ain't MLV but in thicker portions like 1/4", it still does a great job with the usual noises.

Honestly, any steps you take toward deadening pay off pretty handsomely. I say that quality CLD like Knu Kolossus or SDS tiles are probably the most important out of all of the steps though.

I used about 1 sq-ft of dynamat on a sports car floor (in strips) and it worked like magic.

(I would try the SDS, but I cannot seem to get enough support to know what to order... so looking here keenly)

 

[audioi]

I used about 1 sq-ft of dynamat on a sports car floor (in strips) and it worked like magic.

(I would try the SDS, but I cannot seem to get enough support to know what to order... so looking here keenly)

Funny you say that, support... I have checked in with two different providers with zero response. Really just need an idea of what to get and pay the man, looks like we are all awaiting.

 

[Holmz]

Funny you say that, support... I have checked in with two different providers with zero response. Really just need an idea of what to get and pay the man, looks like we are all awaiting.

The fellow at SecondSkin was very forthcoming and patient, and they ship.
There may be better products, but knowing which to use where, seems like a good place to start.

Personally I would suggest starting with measurements of the noise level, so you have a quantifiable idea of the difference between start and finish.

 

[DrunkPanda]

This is a good price, but don't you need the MLV? And this looks to be enough to do a small 2 door coupe? What were your results with just this package?

I haven't installed it yet, so I can't personally vouch for it yet. It was recommended by more than one person here for sound deadening... I'm sure one of them can vouch for that particular product based off results... I may add MLV later if I'm not satisfied with it, but I don't anticipate it being a mandatory addition. For the price, it's heavy as hell and appears to be a quality product and an excellent start point. That kit should be plenty for the doors/trunk in a full-size sedan with a bit left over for random rattles.

Do note that there are people that overkill the holy hell out of sound deadening without a discernable improvement to road noise beyond doing the basics. 35% coverage in the right places is enough to significantly decrease road noise/rattling... it's much more about placement, material, and installation than it is about getting some absurd coverage ratio with CLD.

Regardless, you have to draw a line somewhere or you'll spend thousands trying to get rid of that last imperceptible-on-the-road decibel. I'd say adding MLV to that kit would do you well unless you're concerned with the added weight on your Boxster. But then again, sound deadening is almost by definition adding weight lol... other than foam to fix random rattling directly

SDS and Second Skin are the high-end options if you don't care about the money and want "the best". The Raamaudio stuff is on par with Dynamat quality from what I can tell.

 

[rton20s]

Did I read correctly, that the car in question is a 981 Boxter? If so, keep in mind that no matter how well you treat the car, it is a convertible. Even with the soft top up, you'll be dealing with a lot of wind/road noise.

That being said, if you are going to rip your interior out to do sound treatment, do it once. The last thing you'll want to do is come back two and three times to pull the interior to add a layer of ccf, mlv, etc.

 

[Lanson]

Did I read correctly, that the car in question is a 981 Boxter? If so, keep in mind that no matter how well you treat the car, it is a convertible. Even with the soft top up, you'll be dealing with a lot of wind/road noise.

That being said, if you are going to rip your interior out to do sound treatment, do it once. The last thing you'll want to do is come back two and three times to pull the interior to add a layer of ccf, mlv, etc.

He didn't say what car it was in this thread that I can tell. Maybe a different thread?

 

[rton20s]

He didn't say what car it was in this thread that I can tell. Maybe a different thread?

Rough day. I thought you were right, and I was losing it.

All good points! Because these tires are like new and perfectly balanced I plan to try dampening and sound proofing first, maybe I am wet dreaming thinking I can shave off 3~4 db of ambient cabin noise but I still plan to give it a go and if that fails then buy tires. Any suggestions of materials to use? Its a 981 Boxster.

 

[04quadcab]

Personally I would suggest starting with measurements of the noise level, so you have a quantifiable idea of the difference between start and finish.

I am a big fan of measurement. I started a thread here where I am detailing my experience trying to silence a 14 year old truck.

http://www.diymobileaudio.com/forum...sion/380538-beating-soun-dead-ener-horse.html

I have a window of opportunity in May, during that time the seats and carpet are coming out. So far I have only CLD'ed the doors. This had a very small impact on good roads, but it did a lot more on crappy roads. But, the crappy roads are still much worse than the good ones. I took a trip this weekend, fresh new pavement on the way there, harsh old pavement on the way back.

I used KnoKnoise CLD. I am happy with the product. But I like the way the doors close with a nice solid thunk. I ordered my MLV from Amazon, the seller was "IsoStore." The product arrived damaged. Interestingly enough the 100' roll was just under $200 when I bought it. For some reason it is cheaper now -- as is the next best competitor. I got the rest of my material from SDS and I am very happy with it.

 

[mumbles]

Is that right?

Do you want the dynamat on the bottom, and then the foam on top?
Or
Foam and then dynamat on top?

We may be talking about two different things... Normal course would be to dynamat (CLD) to reduce panel vibration. If you want to go further towards reducing incoming road noise, then you would apply foam on top of the CLD and finally MLV on top of that... hope this makes more sense.

 

[Lanson]

Rough day. I thought you were right, and I was losing it.

Wow and I even ctl-f searched. I bet I spelled wrong.


Anyway,

if a convertible, consider the Low-E type of deadening w/ copious amounts of Knu Kolossus. Here it is https://www.amazon.com/Low-Reflecti...6954&sr=8-1&keywords=ESP+Low-E+Insulation+Inc. and it is NOT MLV, but the foil did a great to exceptional job cooling down the Vette's interior, and the extraneous road noise. Here's an action shot

So in that build, I used a box of Knu Kolossus, and quite a bit of the Low-E, and it turned out pretty great. MLV would be better, but it is kinda pointless in targas and convertibles, especially if weight is a bad idea.