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Discussion Starter #1
there's a TON of stuff we're all tempted to spend our money on:

- midbass
- tweeters (ribbon $$ or dome)
- subs
- amps
- headunits
- equalisers
- deadening

these all vary wildy in price. currently i have the cheapest mp3 clarion head unit and a second hand phoenix gold zx450 (with bandpass features).

i'm just wondering what's the best way to spend the next x dollars to be as audibly satisfied as possible.

npdang and many other people often mention how bad the car interior is for sound reproduction and i was just reading's his article on setting up a pc-based RTA. the behringer is expensive and just another very tempting expenditure. it made me think

* should i just buy a cheap set of splits second hand and a behringer to tune it correctly ?
* maybe i could run my phoenix gold amp and buy the behringer so i can tune some cheap splits correctly.
* deadening is important, but is it better spent elsewhere

assuming the speakers are already paid for and the headunit is already there .. what other purchases would make the most audible differences ?
 

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behringer can only do so much on a bad install. If the install is top notch, you won't need that much equalizing power. A good 5-10 band per side would suffice. If anything I think the PC measurement system would be one of the more useful purchases. ( i just purchased my own pc set up =D )

I would say first start off with Sound dampening. Start at teh foundation and build your way up. Speakers would be my next choice.
 

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after 2 months of playing,testing,positioning drivers,i finally got mine to where i can live with it. ihave not even started with the eq yet. be patient,the rewards of a properly set up active system are well worth the time and effort.btw,i ended up with a 2000hz hipass @18db/oct on my mids and 3.2khz [email protected]/oct on my tweets.(ca18rnx and lpg25)as far as "enough power",i started out with a [email protected] on my tweets and now am running [email protected] on each one,the mids started @75w ea and now get200w to ea one.if you want loud,clean,clear,detailed music,skimping on amp power is not the way to go about it.

my2cents
 

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I'd say look at the install locations first, and try to do the most you can with it.

After that, your best friend is going to be an active crossover and eq, so that you can level match the drivers and adjust the frequency response. It doesn't have to be a Behringer, although at $200 I wouldn't consider that expensive... that's about the equivalent of a decent amp or headunit. A popular choice is to just purchase a headunit or amp with built in processing.

Places you can generally skimp are amps (lot of good deals out there on reliable gear), sound deadening (alot of cheap alternative stuff available), and I can't believe I'm saying this but speakers. Dayton reference is very affordable and well built. Certainly not a compromise in performance, yet you could purchase a set for a little over $100.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
people often say that the 'install' is important. but with factory locations there is only so much you can do, take for example RS180 and RS28A. i'm planning to mount the midbass in the doors in the factory location (obviously firing at calves) and RS28A at about shin level next to the door hanging off and under the dash. obviously deadening is essential and i think cables and amp brands have little to do with sound quality compared with the audible value of good power ($ per watt), deadening and good equalization. what else is there ?

i agree the RS line is excellent value, combined with cheap cable and a solid (but not fancy) amp.

npdang, what's the current situation with installing a behringer, $200 .. how about power supply ?
 

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Discussion Starter #6
my experience is limited but basically as far as i can tell the steps are:

1. buy decent good value speakers (dayton/seas etc)
2. deaden doors for a purer signal
3. install speakers and EQUALIZE to adjust to a accoustically awkward car interior/environment

as we were discussing earlier ('defining sound quality') at the end of the day we want an accurate reproduction of the original recording, and to do this all we need to do is equalize half-decent speakers (which is why i was suggesting cheap splits plus an equalizer and an RTA)

another way of looking at it: we've heard time and time again how bad the car environment is bad for sound reproduction, so at headrest level all we need is a frequency response as level as possible with a signal coming from an undistorted source (speakers mounted to deadened panels)

isnt that all there is to it ? isn't that why equalization is so important ?
 
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