[BoominTL]

So I have random problems with melting my fused power distribution blocks. Like once a year my fused distribution block melts and I need to buy a new one. Its weird it goes so long being fine then one day gets hot enough to melt. Happened like 3-4 times now in that many years on the same install. I have zero gauge running to the trunk where it splits in the fused d block with 4 gauge going to my amps. I then have my 4 gauge grounds ran to the same ring terminal and grounded to the body under the seatbelt bracket under the back seat.

Anyway, someone told me my ground is bad and I needed to move it. I've searched online and seen plenty of people say the seatbelt bolt is not a good spot. I can see that in a car with a frame, but in a unibody car shouldn't that be a good thick piece of metal to ground to? If not, where is the best spot to ground to? I've always grounded to the rear seatbelt bolts in all my cars and never had a problem until this car. Its a 2005 mitsubishi eclipse if it matters.

 

[BoominTL]

I have had multiple fused distribution blocks melt and they have been multiple different kinds. I had a orion, a couple different styles from knukonceptz, and i currently just installed a no-name one I bought off Amazon.

I know the connections have been rock solid, I'm anal about wiring. Lol All connections are completed with wire ferrules. They give a good crimp on the wire and the set screws lock on to them good and don't back out. Plus it just makes everything look nice and neat.. I don't think loose connections at the distribution block are my problem. Especially considering how many times I've gone over everything and switched things out.

And the distribution block is in the trunk, so its safe from heat and weather. I have a main 250amp fuse by the battery under hood but that has never popped on me. Its always the fuses in the trunk blowing. The wire has never melted at all or anything, its always just the distribution block. The plastic that the fuse holders mount to will melt eventually and the 2 power wires will end up touching and popping fuses.

I just don't get it why it keeps happening.

 

[BoominTL]

I did just use the set screws to crimp the ferrules but they are on there solid and not coming off so I'm not exactly sure how that could be a problem. I put the ferrules on once and they have stayed after switching multiple times because after the first time cranking the set screws down I couldn't get them off without cutting them. Its basically crimped, just not with a actual tool.

 

[BoominTL]

Why would crimping it with a proper crimper be so important in my application? I'm literally just using a ferrule as a sleeve to keep the wire nice and neat so I don't have any little wires poking out anywhere. Thats it. The ferrule is just a super thin piece of metal. Is there really a difference between smashing bare wire down under a set screw vs doing the same thing with a ferrule around it?

 

[BoominTL]

I'm thinking I might cut them off and put new ones on. I'll just drill a little hole in the ferrule for the set screws to go through. That way I can use them to keep everything nice and clean like I have it but it will let the set screws compress the wire like the ferrule isn't there.

 

[BoominTL]

how much current do you run through your set-up? sounds like you would be melting if you are generating a lot of heat, the only time you would generate a lot of heat is if you have high current + high resistance together. and the heat will generate where the high resistance is.

Not a ton. I haven't measured with a multimeter on a test tone or anything but the amps can only pull like 120 amps together at most.

what do you mean by this? if power wires touch each other it shouldn't matter, do you mean the power wires touch a ground point or touch some ground wires.....?

I'm not sure exactly. This is how I find the problem though, my sub amp will cut out first and when I got to check fuses the holder will be melted and the 2 separate power connections will be touching. I always figure once they touch it tries to pull more than the individual fuses are rated for and they pop. But I'm not sure exactly. I have used holders from knukonceptz, stinger, orion, and am currently using a no name one off Amazon. Funny thing is the no name one has lasted the longest so far.

This above sounds likely, can you try brand new fuses next time? Also, just try no ferrules as a test.

Also, also, pics will speak a thousand words in this situation.

I've used brand new fuses every time. I use mini anl fuses. I attached a picture of the fuse holder. Not sure if you want to see anything else.

 

[BoominTL]

Not sure why you guys hate the ferrules so much. Lol

Just watched this video and this guy actually suggests not crimping ferrules for power wires. This was my reasoning too and why I just let the set screws do the crimping.

YouTube