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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have a 2018 F150 Lariat and am starting my audio build ?. It has the "premium" B&O sound system but I'm not impressed. Need some advice on the front stage. I'm debating between the Focal PS165FX or going with Audiofrog GS60 midranges paired with Alpine SPR-10TW tweeters. They will be powered by a JL Audio XD600/6v2 (75Wx6) with an Auidiocontrol DM-810 DSP. I'll also have the NAV-TV ZEN-A2B Audio Interface so everything is flat going into the dsp. Each tweeter and midrange will have their own amp channel. I'm leaning towards the Audiofrogs with the Alpine tweeters due to the tweeters being able to handle more power compared to the Focals but are the Focal components better? Please help!
 

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I wouldn’t trust a guy named F150Man to give you speaker advice on an F-150. :) I’ve only heard the AF GB series and GS690 midbass so I’ll defer to the Man on this one. :)
 

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I have a 2018 F150 Lariat and am starting my audio build ?. It has the "premium" B&O sound system but I'm not impressed. Need some advice on the front stage. I'm debating between the Focal PS165FX or going with Audiofrog GS60 midranges paired with Alpine SPR-10TW tweeters. They will be powered by a JL Audio XD600/6v2 (75Wx6) with an Auidiocontrol DM-810 DSP. I'll also have the NAV-TV ZEN-A2B Audio Interface so everything is flat going into the dsp. Each tweeter and midrange will have their own amp channel. I'm leaning towards the Audiofrogs with the Alpine tweeters due to the tweeters being able to handle more power compared to the Focals but are the Focal components better? Please help!
I dont think the Alpine tweeters will play low enough to mate with the frogs. If you are looking at doing an active 2 way, I would find a large format tweeter that would play low. Something with a min of 2K ability. I would look at something like the SB Acoustics SB 29 or a few others recommended on the site.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
I dont think the Alpine tweeters will play low enough to mate with the frogs. If you are looking at doing an active 2 way, I would find a large format tweeter that would play low. Something with a min of 2K ability. I would look at something like the SB Acoustics SB 29 or a few others recommended on the site.
The Alpine tweeters will play down to 1K per their spec sheet. I think I'd be ok?
Tweeters:
Product highlights:
  • 1" silk dome tweeters (pair)
  • flush-, top-, and bottom-mount hardware included
  • external crossovers with 4-way level control
  • power handling: 5-150 watts RMS (450 watts peak power)
  • frequency response: 1,000-29,000 Hz
  • impedance: 4 ohms
  • sensitivity: 88 dB
Midranges:
Highlights:
  • 6" polypropylene speakers (pair)
  • for use with GS10 tweeter and GS610C crossover or in systems with active crossovers
  • power handling: 15-100 watts RMS (200 watts peak power)
  • frequency response: 50-7,000 Hz
  • impedance: 4 ohms
  • sensitivity: 89 dB
Thanks for responding!
 

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Not if you want them to live. If you cross a 1” tweeter down to 1000Hz, it is only a matter of time (minutes) until you blow it, even with 100w much less 450 “peak” watts. I wouldnt recommend crossing below 2,000 Hz.

Audiofrog makes the 1.5” GB15 for interfacing with a 6” driver and saves the smaller 1” tweeter to interfacing with a smaller midrange like their GB25. It is because a 1” tweeter often has issues with the frequency response trying to cover so low and many 6.5” mids have trouble playing cleanly all the way up to mate with a smaller tweeter.

Essentially, speaker beaming starts to occur near 2,000Hz for a 6.5“ driver which means its on-axis vs off-axis response starts to differ so the higher you go, the worse the speaker sounds off-axis, which is why you generally want to cross a 6.5“ below 2,000Hz. And since most 1” tweeters don’t handle 2,000Hz very well, you usually need to go with a larger tweeter in a 2-way setup. And this is especially true if you like to turn it up for spirited listening.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Not if you want them to live. If you cross a 1” tweeter down to 1000Hz, it is only a matter of time (minutes) until you blow it, even with 100w much less 450 “peak” watts. I wouldnt recommend crossing below 2,000 Hz.

Audiofrog makes the 1.5” GB15 for interfacing with a 6” driver and saves the smaller 1” tweeter to interfacing with a smaller midrange like their GB25. It is because a 1” tweeter often has issues with the frequency response trying to cover so low and many 6.5” mids have trouble playing cleanly all the way up to mate with a smaller tweeter.

Essentially, speaker beaming starts to occur near 2,000Hz for a 6.5“ driver which means its on-axis vs off-axis response starts to differ so the higher you go, the worse the speaker sounds off-axis, which is why you generally want to cross a 6.5“ below 2,000Hz. And since most 1” tweeters don’t handle 2,000Hz very well, you usually need to go with a larger tweeter in a 2-way setup. And this is especially true if you like to turn it up for spirited listening.
Ahh... So would you recommend going with the Focal PS165FX Components instead since they are made to go with each other? I'm just worried about giving the Focal tweeters their own amp channels since they can't handle as much power. What do people normally do when setting up active tweeters from a component set? I do know the PS165FX's crossovers are capable of being bi-amped. Side question, would I still use the provided passive crossovers if I'm using the Audiocontrol DSP?
 

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And I know what the specs say but I wouldn’t trust those at all and I‘m really surprised by Alpine. I’m a fan of Alpine but not if that’s how they’re doing the specs now.

No way that tweeter plays (for very long) when crossed near 1,000Hz. I tried to find some more info about the Alpine SPR-10TW but I couldn’t find much, especially on Alpine’s site. That is a dreadful lack of information about a speaker. My guess is that they are using something other than +/-3 dB, which is generally what most quality companies use though Def Tech is one on the home audio side that does not. If the frequency response was +/- 3dB the. It wouldn’t be rated all the way up to 29,000Hz. So my guess is that they are now playing games with the specs and since those tweeters have an attached crossover. It is probably actually crossed over above 2,000Hz.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
And I know what the specs say but I wouldn’t trust those at all and I‘m really surprised by Alpine. I’m a fan of Alpine but not if that’s how they’re doing the specs now.

No way that tweeter plays (for very long) when crossed near 1,000Hz. I tried to find some more info about the Alpine SPR-10TW but I couldn’t find much, especially on Alpine’s site. That is a dreadful lack of information about a speaker. My guess is that they are using something other than +/-3 dB, which is generally what most quality companies use though Def Tech is one on the home audio side that does not. If the frequency response was +/- 3dB the. It wouldn’t be rated all the way up to 29,000Hz. So my guess is that they are now playing games with the specs and since those tweeters have an attached crossover. It is probably actually crossed over above 2,000Hz.
I agree. Alpine's site says to check them out on Crutchfield and there you can view specs. What's up with that?

If I crossed them over at say 3500Hz with my DSP, would that be better?
 

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I’m Not familiar with either tweeter and only the more expensive Focal TBE. I wouldn’t necessarily worry about the power as the tweeter doesn’t need much power and when level matches properly, the tweeter won’t get that much power since it needs a lot less power to get loud as compared to a mid or subwoofer.

But if going active, absolutely, positively put a capaciter on the tweeter to protect it from accidentally getting frequencies it can’t play. The usual recommendation for 4 ohm car tweeters is to get a 47 microfarad capacitor like this one at Parts Express.

 

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I agree. Alpine's site says to check them out on Crutchfield and there you can view specs. What's up with that?

If I crossed them over at say 3500Hz with my DSP, would that be better?
You’d want to play with them to see what sounds good in your car but my guess with a 1” tweeter is that you’ll want it above 2,500 and maybe even 3,500 Hz. The above 2,000Hz is to protect the tweeter. The comment about 2,500-3,500 is about getting the best sound where the tweeter is smooth and not pushed hard.

And this is where going with a larger (1.5”) tweeter gives you more flexibility with integrating to a 6.5” midrange.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
I’m Not familiar with either tweeter and only the more expensive Focal TBE. I wouldn’t necessarily worry about the power as the tweeter doesn’t need much power and when level matches properly, the tweeter won’t get that much power since it needs a lot less power to get loud as compared to a mid or subwoofer.

But if going active, absolutely, positively put a capaciter on the tweeter to protect it from accidentally getting frequencies it can’t play. The usual recommendation for 4 ohm car tweeters is to get a 47 microfarad capacitor like this one at Parts Express.

Just realized the Focal tweeters are 8 ohms. What capacitor would I need instead of 47 microfarad?
 

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Cut it in half, which takes you to a 22 microfarad capacitor, at least with what Parts Express carries, which is a good place to get supplies.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Cut it in half, which takes you to a 22 microfarad capacitor, at least with what Parts Express carries, which is a good place to get supplies.
Would I need these if I use the provided passive crossovers? Again, thank you for responding and helping me out. I'm new to crossovers and dsp wiring. I'll have the AudioControl DSP so do people still hook up the passive crossovers included with components and fine tune with the dsp or do they just add an inline capacitor to protect the tweeter and let the dsp do all the crossover work?
 

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Alpine isn't claiming that the tweeters can be high passed at 1khz, they are simply stating that the tweeters will play down to 1khz, which just about any tweeter can do, although only at output levels many decibels below the crossover point. With a HPF of 3khz and a 24dB slope, they'll be down about 36 decibels at 1khz.

Their literature doesn't make this clear to someone who doesn't know these things, which is a bummer, but an advertised frequency range should not be mistaken for a safe HPF.
 

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Would I need these if I use the provided passive crossovers? Again, thank you for responding and helping me out. I'm new to crossovers and dsp wiring. I'll have the AudioControl DSP so do people still hook up the passive crossovers included with components and fine tune with the dsp or do they just add an inline capacitor to protect the tweeter and let the dsp do all the crossover work?
No. If you use the provided passive crossovers and wire them correctly the tweeter will be protected. You only need the separate capacitor when running active.
 
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