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I'm thinking about going with an active two-way using these speakers paired up with Eric Stevens neo competition horns. I would normally post this question in the hlcd forum, but there's not a lot of traffic there. Does anybody have any experience with these particular mids? with these mids can you go sub-less? It's not what I'm trying to do I'm just curious if they've got a lot of solid impactful mid-bass where you can hear and feel the kick drum. I'm curious about their sound
 

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IB in doors well sound deadened
Hey you should give Eric Stevens a call. I did last week, and he was a super cool guy. Gave me lots of time and info. Tell him what you want to do and he will give you plenty of great advice :) You can get his number on his FB page.

Peace
 

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I dont think you're running these much below 70-80 hz, assuming you need the output to match up with the horns. Play around with these in win isd with a sealed enclosure around 3 cu ft to match what a leaky door would be like for a driver.

similar thread that might help you pick drivers.
 

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From what I read, the MB8s will play better lower, but up top the Beyma will be a better midrange.

You'll need a sub with either choice. The MB8 is quite capable down to 70hz, don't think the Beyma likes going down that low.

The Beyma is also 60 bucks more per driver.

The MB8 is also available in 2 or 4 ohm.

I'm pretty well satisfied with the MB8, it's a pretty phenomenal driver at it's price point to me. To me it's like I'm sitting in my buddy's garage, and they're jamming. Drums, guitar and bass, very dynamic.

Can't go wrong with either, both are quite resellable if they're not up to snuff.
 

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I dont think you're running these much below 70-80 hz, assuming you need the output to match up with the horns. Play around with these in win isd with a sealed enclosure around 3 cu ft to match what a leaky door would be like for a driver.

similar thread that might help you pick drivers.
A leaky door ? No, I'm talking about a sealed enclosure of a precise cubic footage, based on the manufacturers recommendations.
 

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Beyma g40 series are better not sealed. Best place... Door baffle
Hmmmmmmmm..... I'm not doubting that at some time in history, with some specific speaker, it was better to mount them without an enclosure, but I've always felt that an enclosure for mid bass drivers (properly designed) would be far better, like 99.6 % of the time, and that the only reason people did not use an enclosure, was for easiness, simplicity... or, just laziness...
It's just really hard for me to believe that all the crap behind my door panels, braces, cables, the window, etc, could "help" the sound ? If your saying that the speakers need to be "freer" fine. As I say, I think I could give them quite a bit of space, and "still be sealed". I've even considered "ported".... which I know is not typical, but it has been done with good results, by a few in the past.

Honestly, if Beyma themselves told me, "Oh yes, these drivers should be mounted in a sloppy, "leaky door" (as Lithium pointed out above) along with all the rattles that will go along with it.... Then maybe I need to look at some different mid bass drivers ?
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Hmmmmmmmm..... I'm not doubting that at some time in history, with some specific speaker, it was better to mount them without an enclosure, but I've always felt that an enclosure for mid bass drivers (properly designed) would be far better, like 99.6 % of the time, and that the only reason people did not use an enclosure, was for easiness, simplicity... or, just laziness...
It's just really hard for me to believe that all the crap behind my door panels, braces, cables, the window, etc, could "help" the sound ? If your saying that the speakers need to be "freer" fine. As I say, I think I could give them quite a bit of space, and "still be sealed". I've even considered "ported".... which I know is not typical, but it has been done with good results, by a few in the past.

Honestly, if Beyma themselves told me, "Oh yes, these drivers should be mounted in a sloppy, "leaky door" (as Lithium pointed out above) along with all the rattles that will go along with it.... Then maybe I need to look at some different mid bass drivers ?
of course is it if the door isn't reinforced and isn't properly sound deaden it's going to sound like shit. And it will rattle like you wouldn't believe to. A good properly sound indoor should sound better then a sealed enclosure for these mid woofers.
 

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Hmmmmmmmm..... I'm not doubting that at some time in history, with some specific speaker, it was better to mount them without an enclosure, but I've always felt that an enclosure for mid bass drivers (properly designed) would be far better, like 99.6 % of the time, and that the only reason people did not use an enclosure, was for easiness, simplicity... or, just laziness...
It's just really hard for me to believe that all the crap behind my door panels, braces, cables, the window, etc, could "help" the sound ? If your saying that the speakers need to be "freer" fine. As I say, I think I could give them quite a bit of space, and "still be sealed". I've even considered "ported".... which I know is not typical, but it has been done with good results, by a few in the past.

Honestly, if Beyma themselves told me, "Oh yes, these drivers should be mounted in a sloppy, "leaky door" (as Lithium pointed out above) along with all the rattles that will go along with it.... Then maybe I need to look at some different mid bass drivers ?
All car doors are leaky, and not fully sealed. If you want to fully seal a door you'll need to cover the weep holes at the bottom (bad idea), and seal the window glass (you won't be able to roll the windows down). A speaker in a car door, when properly treated, will behave as if it were in an IB setup, and most car audio speakers are designed to be used IB. IB works very well when the speaker is designed for IB use, and if I wasn't driving a hatchback I would absolutely do IB for my subs. It seems like you are under the belief that IB is some how an inferior "enclosure" type, which isn't the case.
 

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He's talking about a sealed wood and fiberglass enclosure attached to the door skin, not sealing the actual door. Is the Beyma 8g40 really a car audio specific driver?

I'm of the mind that a sealed enclosure is better as well, maybe I haven't heard a truly good sealed door but I did spend quite a few dollars and hours trying to seal up and dampen mine, mlv and ccf and all that. Same driver, it didn't sound as good as the sealed pod I made on/out of the door panel with fiberglass/resin and a fair amount of milkshake inside.
 

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He's talking about a sealed wood and fiberglass enclosure attached to the door skin, not sealing the actual door. Is the Beyma 8g40 really a car audio specific driver?

I'm of the mind that a sealed enclosure is better as well, maybe I haven't heard a truly good sealed door but I did spend quite a few dollars and hours trying to seal up and dampen mine, mlv and ccf and all that. Same driver, it didn't sound as good as the sealed pod I made on/out of the door panel with fiberglass/resin and a fair amount of milkshake inside.
Exactly. Well, partly in the door, partly out... Or should I say, extending from the door where the map pockets extend now.
"Even if" one could seal a door up completely air tight, it would still flex all over the place, cancelling all kinds of sound pressure, and then what would be the point ?
 

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Btw, on the spec sheet (this is for the 12" Beyma 12G40,
Wouldn't it say "Infinite baffle" sealed enclosure not recommended ?
Instead, it says, sealed enclosure recommended volume: .7-2.6 cu ft.... Which I feel like I could almost hit right in the middle of, with my big ass doors 🙂
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Btw, on the spec sheet (this is for the 12" Beyma 12G40,
Wouldn't it say "Infinite baffle" sealed enclosure not recommended ?
Instead, it says, sealed enclosure recommended volume: .7-2.6 cu ft.... Which I feel like I could almost hit right in the middle of, with my big ass doors 🙂
What kind of vehicle do you drive that has these big ass doors?
 

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What kind of vehicle do you drive that has these big ass doors?
It's an F150 Supercab.
BTW, it's kind of interesting, although a "Super crew" has 4 full doors and a slightly larger cab, the front and rear doors are pretty even in size. With my Super cab, the front door is like 60% and the rear door is only like 40%.

My truck with the slightly smaller cab, is actually about 4" longer than a Super crew as well.

I have been known to wrag on Supercrews by saying, if you needed an SUV, you should have just got one 😉 I have a 'real' 6ft bed too. Supercrews are only 5ft.

273076
 
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