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Discussion Starter #1
I want to put some 7" mids in the doors of my Subaru Legacy and need to keep it a stealth install.

I accept that my windows will not go right down after I do it, but what do I need to do to ensure I don't damage the power windows?

I intend to put stoppers in to stop them hitting my speakers, but will they just happily stop when they hit something or will they keep trying to go right down and burn themselves out?
 

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Well I can think of a few things...

Easiest would be to put a small mark on your tint at the lowest point you would want your windows to go to, then just never lower them past that point. Doesn't help if someone else operates your windows, though...

Next, you could get a few small limit switches that, when operated, will put a diode in series with the window motor, so that it will only be able to go back up if the switch is activated.

But on the other hand, if you are putting stoppers in so you don't hit the speakers, I can't see any issue. I mean, as far as the window is concerned, it will just act like it is all the way down, if that makes sense...
 

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Sounds like a good deal of work for limited operation of your window.
Is there no way to modify your door card in conjunction with a spacer/baffle?
You can still be stealthy, but not stock. What are your fab and fg skills like? What is the mounting depth of the drivers you want to use?
 

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Well I can think of a few things...

Easiest would be to put a small mark on your tint at the lowest point you would want your windows to go to, then just never lower them past that point. Doesn't help if someone else operates your windows, though...

Next, you could get a few small limit switches that, when operated, will put a diode in series with the window motor, so that it will only be able to go back up if the switch is activated.

But on the other hand, if you are putting stoppers in so you don't hit the speakers, I can't see any issue. I mean, as far as the window is concerned, it will just act like it is all the way down, if that makes sense...
Limit switches, talk about complicated. If you can put stoppers in, do it. all you gotta worry about is the auto down feature on the window
 

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Limit switches, talk about complicated. If you can put stoppers in, do it. all you gotta worry about is the auto down feature on the window
complicated?

1)cut the wire for the "down" side of the window button.
2) install limit switch.
3) route wires to limit switch
4) done.


not that hard.


that said, how close is it? if you are only 1/2" from clearing it, then why not space it out? if it is more, then make a custom mount for it. you can have it still look very stock.

maybe space the window track back a bit?

I would never install a speaker that inhibits the operation of the window, but that is just me.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Thanks for the replies so far guys! :)

I'm already using spacers and I don't have the fabrication skills to try to modify door cards and make it look stock - actually by back is completely stuffed and I'm gunna struggle just to put them in!

The drivers are really deep - thinking I might go crazy and put in the Scan Speak Illuminator 18WU! These are 98mm (4") deep.

http://www.diymobileaudio.com/forum/klippel-reviews-driver-specs/115001-scanspeak-illuminator18wu-4741t00-klippel-test-data.html

I'm hoping that the window mechanism has a sensor, such that when the window stops moving and the current through the motor increases, the motor is turned off. I don't know if this is really the case or not - if someone could confirm this for me, that would be awesome. Certainly the auto down switch is still of some concern as well...
 

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Thanks for the replies so far guys! :)

I'm already using spacers and I don't have the fabrication skills to try to modify door cards and make it look stock - actually by back is completely stuffed and I'm gunna struggle just to put them in!

The drivers are really deep - thinking I might go crazy and put in the Scan Speak Illuminator 18WU! These are 98mm (4") deep.

http://www.diymobileaudio.com/forum/klippel-reviews-driver-specs/115001-scanspeak-illuminator18wu-4741t00-klippel-test-data.html

I'm hoping that the window mechanism has a sensor, such that when the window stops moving and the current through the motor increases, the motor is turned off. I don't know if this is really the case or not - if someone could confirm this for me, that would be awesome. Certainly the auto down switch is still of some concern as well...
Why not just get speakers that will fit?

Or consult one of the forum members in your area to help you with the install. Most people are decent and would do it for a 6 pack of beer.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Why not just get speakers that will fit?
Cos I just pulled the trigger on the Scans! :D

Getting the windows right down is not important to me - I always drive with them up to reduce noise.
 

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Most windows work on resistance to a physical obstruction. Easies way to
Limit would be an angle piece o metal with a rubber stopper to cushion the blow.
But I would try to fab some door pods. U can make them look almost factory (atleast most people wouldn't know) it's he perfect opportunity for some fabrication practice!
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Just in case anyone wants to know the outcome - here's what happened...

I put a stopper screw through the front window track. The windows went down and stopped when they hit the screw - even on auto-down, which was my biggest worry. The window did kind of twist in the tracks slightly because there were no stoppers in the back track, so I added additional stoppers to the back track, as well as some backup stoppers in the front track in case the first screw broke in a year or two's time.

Thanks for all previous replies!
 

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Can you make the spacers taller/deeper to get more clearance? If you can absolutely push the limits as far as how close the speakers are to the door's grill, you might get just enough space for the windows to fit.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Can you make the spacers taller/deeper to get more clearance? If you can absolutely push the limits as far as how close the speakers are to the door's grill, you might get just enough space for the windows to fit.
Nup, not even close - the Illuminators are huge. Even with spacers, the motors are only an inch from the outer door skin. I knew from the outset there was no chance of the windows going down. I built scale model cardboard cutouts to check that they would even fit in before I bought them. It's all working fine for me, sounding phenomenal and I couldn't be happier.
 

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I would have, and still would add pods on top of the door panels to add those speakers, and paint the grills the same color as the door panels to match, and give a stealth look/stock look.that way you can have the full function of your windows rolling all the way down.Some places check to see if your windows roll down all the way for safety, as well as the safety featured /child safe windows in the rear of 4dr vehicles.I would still get some pods or have some made, or even make yourself as well.Vibration will eventually loosen those screws, and you could have an issue on your hand.
 

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Have you got the back of your speakers covered or a rain guard over them?
Hate to think what water would do to those drivers!
 

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Have you got the back of your speakers covered or a rain guard over them?
Hate to think what water would do to those drivers!
This is a very good point. Subaru's doors are notorious for leaking on the speakers. The factory speakers even come with plastic covers built on to them.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Yes, I've got rain covers on them - thanks for the warning though! :)
 
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