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Discussion Starter #1
2005 Silverado. I kinda dove deep and purchased an alpine f65 supporting the spr 60c in the front and sps 406 in the back and an alpine m240 supporting 2x pdr 12d4. My ? is what kinda alternator , battery, cap, etc do I need to support all this power. My current set up is stock head unit with bose speakers and 760w pioneer running 2x 12s. No cap stock battery/alt. Headlights do dim with beet.
 

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I would start with a good new battery like an Exide edge. Diehard platinum, or an Odyssey. Than I would do the big 3 upgrade and see how far that takes you.
 

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Not a huge fan of power CAPS personally, I'd rather put such money towards actually addressing the lacking OEM charging system.

As Fernpatch said, I begin with replacing the battery with a higher amperage deep cycle/AGM battery. Doing the Big 3 now isn't a bad idea either, it may well help, but even if it does very little, it will be in place when/if you install a high output alternator.
 

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I have a optima red top that I was goin to install. I have this whole red scheme goin on under hood. And the big 3 is ground straps right?
Big 3:

Alt positive to battery positive

Battery negative to chassis ground

Chassis to engine ground
 

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Discussion Starter #6 (Edited)
My bad when I go ogled big 3 took me to ground straps. I'll have to double check but I'm pretty sure alt goes to block that breaks off to batt n negative from batt split to chassis. No for fact got chassis to block cuz I had to replace when I install long tube headers. Do I jist need to upgrade to a larger diameter like a 2 gauge?
 

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Yea, you are just basiclly upgrading the stock wire with better larger wire. I'd probably use 0 gauge. 2 gaug may be ok too but Idk how much larger that'd be over stock

How's the weather there in Ft worth? I go there for work a few times a year. I'm jealous of your weather at the moment.
 

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Raining and sheeeeety at the moment but gun warm back up next week. Correct me if I'm wrong but the bigger gauge don't necessarily mean better conductivity? Cuz I burnt up a 2 gauge ground wire I think cuz it bunch of fine wires. I made a 2 gauge wire outta 14g house copper and work so much better. But y I have no clue. The house copper wasn't very bendable was only downfall.
 

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Raining and sheeeeety at the moment but gun warm back up next week. Correct me if I'm wrong but the bigger gauge don't necessarily mean better conductivity? Cuz I burnt up a 2 gauge ground wire I think cuz it bunch of fine wires. I made a 2 gauge wire outta 14g house copper and work so much better. But y I have no clue.
Increased capacitance. 1/0 will be able to carry more current over a given distance vs a smaller gauge but quality of wiring can become a factor.

There can be a lot of factors as to why you burnt up 5he ground wire. One being your pushing stupid amounts of power or it was as simple as a bad ground point, poor connection. Heat is caused by resistance within a wire.

When you do the big three wiring clean all connections down to bare metal. Then don't overlook treatment of the area afterwords. Paint, bedliner, etc... this will protect the metal where you stripped it down.
 

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Ok after watchn couple YouTubes I got a good idea now. I wood do a custom install so what wire and connectors are good to use.
There are a lot of good options out there. You can either buy a Big 3 kit which would include all the wire you would need (can be expensive and usually precut and may not work), or you can save some money and get wire, lugs, fuse holder and fuse.

Also you have the option of CCA or OFC ( oxygen free copper). There is a lot of debt between these types of wire but it comes down to yor power requirements, pricing.

Here are some brands for wire:

Sky High (I use their lugs)
Knukonceptz
Bullz Audio (found on ebay, what i use)

If you can get a local supplier of Welding wire (it's OFC) it may be cheaper.

Those are just a couple. IIRC I paid about $1 per foot for OFC from Bullz Audio on Ebay. Got 50 ft.

For Big 3 figure 10 ft on the extreme side, lugs (or ring terminals), I'd suggest a fuse holder and fuse to place on the power run (from alt to battery).

Go with 1/0 as that will be plenty big.
 

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Is welding cable better?
When I perform "The Big Three" on any car I use 1/0 or larger cable.

Sometimes this is very expensive at local shops. Some of these nuts are asking $7.00/ft. I suggest you go to your closest welding supply shop. I'm in NY and for me that would be an AirGas location. Don't know what you have near you.

Welding cable with fine strands is definitely the way to go. When you use solid, or even large strand cabling you are risking that the vibration and flexibility of the vehicle will constantly be bending and stressing that cable. With the fine stranded wire this is not a concern. Just look at the cabling in the vehicle that the factory put in, it's all fine stranded wiring for a reason.

If you take good measurements beforehand, the welding shop may be willing to cut the cabling to length and crimp the terminals on for you. You will also need some serious battery terminals for this project. Although, since it's a Chevy truck you may be able to get away with the usual side mount adapter.
 

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I have a 2000 Silverado, 5.3l engine, with a red top optima battery, stock alternator, and the big 3 done.
I use a JL 600/4 and JL 1200/1, at peak pulling 1800 watts and only on the most demanding songs at top volume does the voltage drop or headlights dim, and even then its for less than a second each time.

Unless your newer Silverado has a smaller alternator, I would guess you could get away with not upgrading the alternator, even with that beast of a mono amp you picked up, unless you're going to run the sub's at 2Ohms and pull the full 2400+ watts. That's 200 amps by itself, and I think my alternator peaks at 180 amps.

Either way, once you have the huge 1/0 awg power and grounds hooked up, you'll be able to start turning up your gain and decide for yourself if the truck can power your new amps without melting wires.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
I have a 2000 Silverado, 5.3l engine, with a red top optima battery, stock alternator, and the big 3 done.
I use a JL 600/4 and JL 1200/1, at peak pulling 1800 watts and only on the most demanding songs at top volume does the voltage drop or headlights dim, and even then its for less than a second each time.

Unless your newer Silverado has a smaller alternator, I would guess you could get away with not upgrading the alternator, even with that beast of a mono amp you picked up, unless you're going to run the sub's at 2Ohms and pull the full 2400+ watts. That's 200 amps by itself, and I think my alternator peaks at 180 amps.

Either way, once you have the huge 1/0 awg power and grounds hooked up, you'll be able to start turning up your gain and decide for yourself if the truck can power your new amps without melting wires.

yea I double checked n alt is a 180. Gun stop by weldn shop tomorrow check out wire.


Any1 no where I can get 1 mounting leg and 1 end cap for an alpine f65? ???
 

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