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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So long story short when plugging in the usb cable from minidsp to the laptop, there was a loud pop in the passenger side tweeter, and now, no sound from it.

The odd thing is when i measure the DC resistance on the VC, it reads 2.8ohms like the drivers side tweeter does.

What gives? I always though a test of a blown speaker was DC resistance and it measures in spec.

And yes, I checked amp outputs and signal in and they're are unaffected.

Thoughts?
 

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Did you swap the tweeter to the other working side? Seems odd that the resistance would check out ok......

I've had a processor cost me 2 HAT L1Pro R2's.... Swapping out processors and Smashing the **** out of the old one solved it for me...

Many of us, myself included, are guilty of not protecting our tweeters from getting smoked...
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I swapped the inputs on the amp (L and R) left tweeter plays RH content.

Swap the speaker terminals at the amp, left tweeter plays RH content.

Unless magically my speaker wire broke somewhere on the passenger side... Which would be odd because the car wasnt moving at the time.

More investigation tomorrow I guess.
 

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Did you swap the tweeter to the other working side? Seems odd that the resistance would check out ok......

I've had a processor cost me 2 HAT L1Pro R2's.... Swapping out processors and Smashing the **** out of the old one solved it for me...

Many of us, myself included, are guilty of not protecting our tweeters from getting smoked...
So what is the easiest "failsafe" way to protect tweets from getting fried??
 

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15-20uf cap if your running active.
 

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Would 400hz LP @ 12db be enough? Because I could set that on the amp.
Not if you want to run active..... That needs to stay at full range... I found some .3 and .5 amp fuses with leads on either end... ATC is a better option, there a calculator I found online on which value you need.

But for $3.00 the fuses are the cheapest easiest option... Just a bit of a pain to change if one blows as opposed to the ATC.
 

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Those would do the trick... Just make sure to use an alligator clip between where you solider and the fuse itself... It'll absorb a lot of the heat giving you enough time to solider a good connection before the fuse burns up.
 

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That's a great tip on the clip, thank you for the information.

One more question if you don't mind; Where can I buy those in-line tweeter protectors that automatically reset after a short period of time? Are those just as safe as a fuse?
 

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That's a great tip on the clip, thank you for the information.

One more question if you don't mind; Where can I buy those in-line tweeter protectors that automatically reset after a short period of time? Are those just as safe as a fuse?

As long as you have the proper value... If not to much current will get through and smoke them. With the proper value its a lot more convenient. But it's takes slightly longer to close off, than a Glass fuse to blow. They're perfectly fine to use...

Hybrid Audio sells them for around $30 a pair... They're a safe bet. They can be had for a lot cheaper if you calculate the value you need, and buy them online. Parts express, or madisound likely sell them.

$30 for the PTC 's or $1.50 for a couple fuses with leads. Personally I'd just buy the fuses.
 
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