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Discussion Starter #1
I need help choosing a new 10” slim for my set up. I have about 4” of depth to work with, maybe 4&1/2 with a foam ring

As stated I blew out my T1S2-10 slim over the weekend. I had it mounted in my RZR where I turn it up pretty loud to overcome the engine screaming behind me. Finally pushed her too hard, too bad cause she wasn’t cheap.

My set up is this -
Open air RZR, so no cabin gain.
.9 ft3 sealed composite fiberglas box
JL 600/1 marine
T1S2 with open VC, no ohms. Sadness.

I like playing rock pretty loud, E40 and other rap, and edm. Interested in SPL here because I can’t hear any SQL with all the noise in the RZR.
Is there something I could try that will sound more loud over a wider range of frequency than the RF I had? Seemed to be peaking hard even in my sealed enclosure. For the price I thought it would have performed a bit better. I did like it though, not opposed to going that route again.

Thanks guys.
 

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Louder over a wider frequency range, and still shallow mount? That's a tall order. You've got about the worse environment for a stereo, with no top, and you'll probably need more output than a single shallow 10 can provide. I guess the good thing is that you won't be moving at highway speed though, right? Do you have the option of running a pair of 8's instead, or are you pretty much stuck with your current enclosure setup?
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Yeah I hear you brother. I suppose I’m just wondering what other options are on the same level as the t1s2 slim. I read a long time ago when I bought the sub that some guy was saying there were better performing subs at better price points with more desirable fs. I don’t know much about the industry though. Even a louder sub in general I’d love to know about. I’m clueless about subwoofers at this point.

I’m stuck with the box I have. It’s a custom fab dash mounted box by RF. They sell a ported box I could get but I want to run sealed for the dusty environment. And yeah I’m usually doing about 10-20. Sometimes I can hit 80 but it’s not often.
 

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Hmm, people like the JL TW3, but it's sensitivity is lower, and so is it's power handling. I'll step back and let people with more shallow mount sub knowledge step in.
 

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I would look at the JL 10TW3 and Sundown SD-4 10. Both sim so play lower than the Rockford in your 0.9cf sealed enclosure. The Sundown will probably be a bit more efficient, probably about as loud as the Rockford. The JL won't be quite as loud (-2 to 3dB).

It certainly isn't the same application, but @Ge0 has recently been testing the TW3 vs the SD4 for his current build. It might be worth a look. The long and involved process of upgrading my 2016 Macan...
 
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I would look at the JL 10TW3 and Sundown SD-4 10. Both sim so play lower than the Rockford in your 0.9cf sealed enclosure. The Sundown will probably be a bit more efficient, probably about as loud as the Rockford. The JL won't be quite as loud (-2 to 3dB).

It certainly isn't the same application, but @Ge0 has recently been testing the TW3 vs the SD4 for his current build. It might be worth a look. The long and involved process of upgrading my 2016 Macan...
Testing is halted for now. My Zapco amp bit the dust. I have a new amp coming in this week. I only got a brief listen to the SD4 before the amp croaked.

Ge0
 

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How about that Oncore slim sub

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
I looked at the Oncore as well. The only reason I didn't recommend considering it was the specific application of an open RZR with no cabin gain. It is certainly efficient and would likely provide the most output. However the lower Qtc and higher Fsc didn't seem like it would be best for the application.

270988
 
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Discussion Starter #9
Thanks for the ideas guys. I’m going to do some research so I can understand what qtc and fsc do. It sounds like the T1S2 I had is actually a pretty good driver as far as slims go huh? I will def be trying something different either way.
 

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Qtc and Fsc are the Total Q and Resonant Frequency of the speaker system. The "system" is the combination of the driver (subwoofer) and enclosure. You have to look at the two in concert. The Qtc will tell you how the speaker will roll off, the Fsc will tell you where the speaker will roll off. Qtc will also rise as you apply power.

Here you can see a graph indicating various Qtc numbers. Qtc of 0.5 (critically damped) can work great in a car because of the reinforcement cabin gain provides. 0.707 (maximally flat) is another common target (more of a carry over from the home environment) that probably provides the best combination of flat response and low end extension. From there, as Qtc goes up you begin to get a peak in the response which can add punch, but can also create ringing. The higher Qtc also means less low end extension.
270990


For an open air application, like yours, I would shoot for a Qtc between 0.707 and 0.9 with as low of an Fsc as possible. Generally speaking. Also, the more power and EQ capability you have, the more you can shape the actual response of the driver.
 
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Discussion Starter #11
So is qtc modeled on the first chart or just listed? Or is it something that you have to imagine to know how it effects the modeled curve.
Because it obviously looks to a newb like me that the oncore would be the way to go judging by the chart alone.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Still don’t quite understand how the charts relate to the qtc, but I read up more on the qtc, f3 and stage other measures and I might say I have tenuous grasp on it now. Thank you so much for your help guys. Decided to go with the Sundown. That way I can add some foam blocks in there if I want to go for a higher qtc.
 
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