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Discussion Starter #1
Why would increasing my subs airspace in a sealed box cause my fuses to start blowing?
 

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Discussion Starter #3
The fuse at the battery on the power wire.
 

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check all ur wires
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Ya I should but Im just confused since it has run for months fine and as soon as I change the box it blows. I didnt even touch anything else.
 

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are you pushing your amp to the limits?
If you go back to the old box are things ok again?
A bigger box would allow for more cone excursion. Did you dammage something?

The only other thing I can think of is with a bigger box, the resonance frequency and thus the impedance peak is lower. It could simply mean that you are driving the sub with power just above the new reasonance point and drawing more current.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
My gain is only half way up.
Havent had a chance to try the old box. But I was planning on running new 0g wire so I think I will just go ahead and do that tomorrow and see if that helps. I will be doing a big 3 at the same time.

Thanks for the help guys.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
As far as the wire run in question:

Subs: two JL 12w6v2'
Box: Sealed 1.5 cu. ft. per speaker
Amp: Rockford Fosgate T10001bd
Wire: 4 gauge Streetwires (this will be changed to 0 gauge Knukoncepts flex tomorrow)
Fuses: This might be the problem! Just noticed I had a 100 amp fuse when Rockford recommends 150 amp. Doh!
 

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Discussion Starter #11
yep and will be using 0 gauge by this time tomorrow =)
 

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Discussion Starter #12
One more thing =P If I do end up running two 4 gauge to my distrobution block do I fuse each one with the total amperage of the draw or should I divide it in half?
 

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One more thing =P If I do end up running two 4 gauge to my distrobution block do I fuse each one with the total amperage of the draw or should I divide it in half?
I would fuse each amplifier at the distribution block according to the amount of power I intend to use unless this exceeds that value of the built in fuse. That is, I probably would not use the recommended fuse at the distribution block to a 4-channel amplifier if all channels will be running at 4-ohms and a pair of them powering tweeters. But if it is a subwoofer amplifier that's running at full tilt, I'd put the manufacturers recommended fuse at the distribution block.
 

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As far as the wire run in question:


Fuses: This might be the problem! Just noticed I had a 100 amp fuse when Rockford recommends 150 amp. Doh!

I made the mistake of buying this kit too when I didn't know better. StreetWires also sells a true to gauge 4awg kit with a 150 amp fuse included for not much more than this kit..
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Good deal. THanks for the 411!
 

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Make sure when upgrading the Power Cables ( from HO Alternator down to Distribution block ), purchase 1/0 gauge OFC - Oxygen Free Copper. Also, when swapping out the In Line Fuse, refrain from exceeding over 10-15% of the total amp(s) fuse rating.
 
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