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Dammit man, now there’s something else to do chamfer lol
Looking good,
Going from two way to 3 with DL. Uh huh. Still blows my mind. Definitely try rear fill when ya can, some say no but I like it. I used some inexpensive peerless drivers in homemade pvc pods. Stuck them in the corners of the back window next to the head rests. You could make some 3d pods and make it look nice.
I liked the Sony gs-4 so much In am running three of them. I had some old sony xm, 3060, 10020, 4020, 5046, 2150gsx... and the gs4 is staying. Being a budget guy this is the first time running all new amps. Even took out the SS 60II that I thought would be part of the truck.
Had the Silver Flutes too, they got beat out by Volvo dyn’s.
In your opinion, was the MLV on the floor a noticeable improvement worth the time and expense? That plastic egg crate crap above the headliner was broken and would rattle like a mofo, so slapped on some cld while in there. First day driving in the rain in months and noticed a difference right away. Now the windshield need CLD
 

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Discussion Starter · #22 ·
Dammit man, now there’s something else to do chamfer lol
Looking good,
Going from two way to 3 with DL. Uh huh. Still blows my mind. Definitely try rear fill when ya can, some say no but I like it. I used some inexpensive peerless drivers in homemade pvc pods. Stuck them in the corners of the back window next to the head rests. You could make some 3d pods and make it look nice.
I liked the Sony gs-4 so much In am running three of them. I had some old sony xm, 3060, 10020, 4020, 5046, 2150gsx... and the gs4 is staying. Being a budget guy this is the first time running all new amps. Even took out the SS 60II that I thought would be part of the truck.
Had the Silver Flutes too, they got beat out by Volvo dyn’s.
In your opinion, was the MLV on the floor a noticeable improvement worth the time and expense? That plastic egg crate crap above the headliner was broken and would rattle like a mofo, so slapped on some cld while in there. First day driving in the rain in months and noticed a difference right away. Now the windshield need CLD
I do think I'll give rear fill a try since I've already got the processing and amp channels I'd need. Just need to figure out speakers and placement. I've got some cheap Polk coaxials in the rear doors that are not hooked up I could use, but didn't know if having them down low in the door would be more trouble than it's worth. I could do more pods in the rear corners like you suggested, but not sure how that would look. Might do the pods as a temporary solution to see if I like the rear fill, then do fiberglass on the rear quarter trim panel for a more OEM look. Lots of options there. What freq. range are you using on the rear? I've got some Dayton RS100's laying around I could use, but they don't play very low (maybe 300hz?).

What made you go with the Dyn's over the Flutes? I've seen those mentioned a bunch before but haven't looked into them much.

I do think the MLV made a difference, but not a huge one. If I can figure out how to do the doors the overall effect will be good, but just the floors only made about a 1db diff. I did some crude measurements before and after and there was only the slight decrease. The majority of my noise (other than my tires and exhaust) seems to be coming from the firewall, and if you've been up under that dash there is not exactly a lot of room to put anything unless you were to pull out the whole dash and I don't think it would be worth the effort. My truck is not exactly quiet so any improvements have been welcome, I've kept my expectations low given my oversize tires and aftermarket exhaust.

That plastic egg crate stuff was a PITA. I should have just removed it, but instead I put CCF on spots that were rattling, took way longer than necessary. After doing the CLD and melamine the roof is way quieter and you can hardly hear it when it rains. Like you said the windshield seems way louder now that the roof is quite though!
 

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At first i used the dyn MD140/2, because I had them and also wanted to see if rear fill was for me. They were crossed 600-5khz. I believe the peerless are crossed 300-5khz and to me they sound better than the md140. I dont know about the rear door locations, did not try them. Consensus from searching was as far back as ya can get and high up. I have some 2” Aurasound Whipers that I want to try, not sure if will be better or worse. . If i can get the sealed volume they can play from 300-15khz or maybe just let roll off.

I went nuts with the Volvo Dyns, first the mw162gt md100 two way. The found the 8.75” front door from Volvo. Had to see and they fit in the Taco doors. Picked up a used 6to8v8 and went three way the dyns. Then finally found some mw180 and had to see, and they fit. Now using mw180 70-300hz, mw162gt (sealed pods) 300-2500khz, still messing around with tweeters. Sold the Flutes and a bunch of other stuff to get the MiniDSP.

Good to know about the MLV, thanks, saving me some headache as beeb thinking about doing it up. I have roof racks that whistle pretty good which made me hesitate. And yes the door cards are tight with Ensolite and CLD. Once/If i get settled on drivers would like redo the door cards and make it presentable.
i had removed the egg grate then started wondering what it even did. Got concerned if removed the air bags wouldn’t deploy properly. Which is also a reason for not doing pillars. God forbid something happed and drove a speaker into passengers head.
 

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Discussion Starter · #24 ·
At first i used the dyn MD140/2, because I had them and also wanted to see if rear fill was for me. They were crossed 600-5khz. I believe the peerless are crossed 300-5khz and to me they sound better than the md140. I dont know about the rear door locations, did not try them. Consensus from searching was as far back as ya can get and high up. I have some 2” Aurasound Whipers that I want to try, not sure if will be better or worse. . If i can get the sealed volume they can play from 300-15khz or maybe just let roll off.

I went nuts with the Volvo Dyns, first the mw162gt md100 two way. The found the 8.75” front door from Volvo. Had to see and they fit in the Taco doors. Picked up a used 6to8v8 and went three way the dyns. Then finally found some mw180 and had to see, and they fit. Now using mw180 70-300hz, mw162gt (sealed pods) 300-2500khz, still messing around with tweeters. Sold the Flutes and a bunch of other stuff to get the MiniDSP.

Good to know about the MLV, thanks, saving me some headache as beeb thinking about doing it up. I have roof racks that whistle pretty good which made me hesitate. And yes the door cards are tight with Ensolite and CLD. Once/If i get settled on drivers would like redo the door cards and make it presentable.
i had removed the egg grate then started wondering what it even did. Got concerned if removed the air bags wouldn’t deploy properly. Which is also a reason for not doing pillars. God forbid something happed and drove a speaker into passengers head.
I'll have to give the RS100's a shot for rear fill then. Should be easy to make some pods and stick them in the rear corners.

What year is your Tacoma? I've always wondered if I could fit an 8" on those front doors, looks pretty tight especially on depth. Are the model #'s different on the Volvo version? Wondering what I should be looking for when searching Ebay, etc.

For better or worse my 05' doesn't have any air bags in the pillars so no worries there. But that being said everything I've seen related to speakers in a-pillars is that so long as you're not blocking the airbag, the trim panels are designed to only pop off one side so the airbag can deploy and not dislodge the whole trim piece.
 

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Yes sir, give the Daytons a go. The rears are attenuated, it’s like you don’t even hear them. When my son sat in the back I asked if the rear speakers we annoying and he said no, sounds good.
I have a 2010 , the door cards look a little different. Where the speakers go looks similar. I cut the perforated area out of the card. Sealed between the card and door with armacell pipe insulation and weather stripping. No way MLV will ever fit. Made a huge difference though, the window switches and card would resonate like crazy. The window seal was another culprit, put some butyl between the back where it seats on the card.
Volvo dyn’s 98-04 C70 haven’t figured out model # for 8.75” front door/back shelf. They have 3” VC where the mw180(behind rear seat subs) have a 4” VC and larger diameter dust cap. Didn’t have much luck with the 8.75, most are blown, torn surround or locked up. They sound really good if you can find a pair in good shape. The 3” domes md140/142 have all been good, they are built into the card and well protected. The md100 front dash tweeters are square stay away, guess the sun and heat took its toll as most are bad. The rear oval tweeters and the 6.5 mw160gt/162gt are protected well and usually in good shape. The subs are the hardest to find but the ones i did have all been good, well protected behind rear seats.
 

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Discussion Starter · #26 ·
Yes sir, give the Daytons a go. The rears are attenuated, it’s like you don’t even hear them. When my son sat in the back I asked if the rear speakers we annoying and he said no, sounds good.
I have a 2010 , the door cards look a little different. Where the speakers go looks similar. I cut the perforated area out of the card. Sealed between the card and door with armacell pipe insulation and weather stripping. No way MLV will ever fit. Made a huge difference though, the window switches and card would resonate like crazy. The window seal was another culprit, put some butyl between the back where it seats on the card.
Volvo dyn’s 98-04 C70 haven’t figured out model # for 8.75” front door/back shelf. They have 3” VC where the mw180(behind rear seat subs) have a 4” VC and larger diameter dust cap. Didn’t have much luck with the 8.75, most are blown, torn surround or locked up. They sound really good if you can find a pair in good shape. The 3” domes md140/142 have all been good, they are built into the card and well protected. The md100 front dash tweeters are square stay away, guess the sun and heat took its toll as most are bad. The rear oval tweeters and the 6.5 mw160gt/162gt are protected well and usually in good shape. The subs are the hardest to find but the ones i did have all been good, well protected behind rear seats.
Got any photos of these for cards? You've got me intrigued.

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Discussion Starter · #29 ·
Finished up wiring on my amp rack tonight. The goal was a super clean look from the front side and keeping things organized on the back. I don't plan on any trim/beauty panels which is why I focused on keeping the wiring on the back. I think it turned out pretty well.

I wasn't super excited about having to mount the Sony amp upside down, but there really wasn't much room for wiring if I'd have mounted it logo side up. Going to try and get the rest of the wiring complete in the truck tomorrow and get the rack mounted. I'll try to snag some more photos of my progress tomorrow. Thanks.


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I think that's a nice job fitting all different components together in a cohesive way. The painted wood looks really good, too.
 

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Discussion Starter · #31 ·
Finished sub box and got everything in the truck. Did a quick check to make sure everything powered on and it looks good. I still need to secure the rack and set gains on the amps. Then the fun begins.


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Discussion Starter · #32 ·
I've been rocking this setup for a couple weeks now and have played around with several different house curves. Overall I'm super happy with my results. This upgrade has paid off and is a major improvement in sound quality over my last setup. For stationary listening I'm using a modified version of the JBL and Jazzy curve, but for the bulk of my listening, which occurs while driving, I'm using the Whitledge curve. The current tires on my truck are pretty noisy so I need the extra bass to even be able to hear it.

So, now that I've been listening to the SI M3 carbons I have to say that I am very impressed. I've thrown every genre of music at them that I can think of, at every volume level, and they haven't skipped a beat. I'm not very good at describing what I'm hearing (especially not compared to @Ge0 ), but these things are very articulate without being the least bit fatiguing and have plenty of dynamics. They are not too "in your face", but can jump out at you if needed. Friday I went through the playlist Geo is using in his comparison thread to see if I could hear any of the things he has described and came away pleasantly surprised. I've not heard the Micro Precisions, but think the M3's could compete if given the chance.

I still need to build a bracket and mount the remote for the MiniDSP so I'll likely update this thread once I get started on that process. Let me know if anyone has questions. Thanks for checking in!
 

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Discussion Starter · #34 ·
I have a set of M3's in queue to test.
Nice, hopefully I didn't just stick my foot in my mouth then... It will be nice to see what you think of them though since you've listened to so many other drivers.
 

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Very nice!! Excellent build
 
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Discussion Starter · #38 ·
Finally got my OLED remote installed for the 8x12. I never used this little coin flip down pocket and it's within arms reach so I thought it would be a good spot. I can still close it up so it's totally hidden, or flip it down if I want to see/use it. The other bonus is that I can see it through the cutouts in my steering wheel so I don't need to move my head at all.

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Discussion Starter · #39 ·
Just realized I never updated this thread when I swapped out midbasses! Decided to try out something new and picked up a pair of used Peerless SLS 6.5's (excuse the dirty cone/surrounds). These things are definitely more beefy than the Silver Flutes and have no trouble keeping up with my sub. I took the truck over to the recent meetup in VA and got some good feedback on my system from some other forum members. Everyone seemed to enjoy the setup and I got a lot of good comments on the pods. My Dirac tune was pretty dialed in and if @bertholomey liked what he heard I knew I was doing something right! I also recently picked up a pair of Scanspeak D3004 silk domes to try out in place of the KAX's so I need to get those swapped out in the pods or mounted elsewhere to test. I plan to do fiberglass sail panels for the tweets once I pick between the two and am considering putting the M3's either in the upper doors or A-pillars as a permanent location.

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And before anyone calls me out on the MDF mounts, they have been in these doors since 2014 in crazy humid (south Texas) and crazy rainy (Oregon coast) climates (always parked outside) and do not show any signs of swelling or water damage. Once I see any signs of damage I'll upgrade to some mounts from Delander, but until then these are working great.

Last, but not least, I grabbed one of the last Stereo Integrity BM MKV to try in place of the JL. Hoping to get that installed over Xmas, but we'll see how it goes.

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Hey everyone, been doing a bunch of work to my system over the last several months and thought I'd share. I'd call this a budget build, especially compared to some of the setups on here, though I have splurged in certain areas that I thought would have the most meaningful impact. This is my daily driver and I listen to most all types of music depending on my mood. I installed my previous setup back in 2014 which was a simple 2-way active system with all xovers and EQ done by my HU and I have not made any changes since that time. I recently got a new job and with that came some extra disposable income and what better way to spend some cash then on a SQ system! Here's the truck, a 2005 Tacoma in Speedway Blue!

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Source material is currently from my Headunit from either CD, USB, or Bluetooth streaming. As part of this upgrade I'll be installing a Douk USB to Toslink adapter and using my phone (via USB OTG) as my media player. This will allow me to stream Tidal digitally directly to my MiniDSP 8x12DL. I don't plan to go into too much detail on specifics so if you've got questions just let me know. Thanks for checking out my build!

Current Planned system, 3-way active front stage:
HU - Clarion CZ702
Tweeters - Kravchenko Audio KAXBL-TWT (purchased here back in 14') Love these tweeters!
Midrange - Stereo Integrity M3 carbon
Midbass - Silver Flute 6.5's (been running these since 14' and been very pleased with them especially given the price tag. They should work great in a 3-way)
Sub - JL 12TW3-D4 sealed
Amp 1 - Sony XM-GS4 (will be powering the tweets and mids) Have not used this amp before but based on all the reviews it should be a very solid performer
Amp 2 - Alpine PDX-V9 (will be powering the 6.5's and JL sub) The extra 2 channels will allow me to add some rear fill in the future if I want.
DSP - MiniDSP 8x12 DL

The only items from my original setup that I'm keeping are the HU, tweets, midbass, all the wiring and sound deadening. I had previously deadened all the doors and back of the cab with CLD and ensolite. As part of this upgrade I pulled out the whole interior and did CLD, CCF, and MLV on the floors and CLD/melamine foam on the roof. I have not done MLV on the doors yet because I'm struggling to figure out how to properly hang it, plus there is not a lot of room left between the door and the interior panel. I may leave it off for now. I know the MLV is not very effective if you don't have 100% coverage, so I'm open to help suggestions on that front.

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What thickness of CCF and MLV did you use on the floor? Did you have any issues getting it back together with the extra layers?
 
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