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Bluetooth + JP95 - First time, can't get audio output.

425 Views 20 Replies 3 Participants Last post by  stingray
Hey All, Please help

Trying to create an invisible stereo in a classic pickup 1956 F100.
Testing it out on a table-top first before I install it. This is my current layout. I have a fuse between the battery and the rest of the setup. when I install in the vehicle, I'll move accessory to the auto accessory wire.
The DS18 has an always on blue LED
I am powering with a car battery, voltage has read 12.5 currently reads 12.1
When I start streaming to the DS18, it has an always on Red LED
When I start streaming to the DS18, the Power/Protect LEDs come on on the amp. They flicker at varying patterns
First attempt, no sound, shut it off for a while, messed with some of the settings
Second attempt, i had it set to a CH3/4 mode, and I had audio to the 2 speakers. The sub controller showed 12.X and no adjustment of the dial knob made any difference.
I tried to swap to 5 ch, it kept playing through 2 speakers but nothing from sub. I tried to switch the sub from 4ohm to 2 ohm, no change
I turned everything off, checked and reset all of the wires, set it to ch 5. turned it on, no sound. Power and protect would flicker in varrying patterns, it doesnt look like trouble codes, but seems tied to the music that is playing.
Every other change I have made, I haven't been able to get back to sound in the 2 speakers.

I am a total noob, I do not know how to appropriately adjust the settings. My approach has been to set gain to about half, turn the filters to a hair above full left, and then experimentally test the switches. Mostly I have kept the switches in the configuration shown in the diagram below. Other than swapping between CH1/4 and CH5

The one time it did work, it seemed to take a good 30 seconds to start playing, but once it was I could start and stop at will, I had full control of volume just via my phone's volume.

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I'm currently using aligator clip jumper wires from the speaker cables you see in the amp to the terminals on the speakers. I assume thats sufficient for bench testing purposes.

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since I only have 1 female to 2 male splitters, I have the output from the bluetooth transmitter, and I split that, then I split one of those two. that gives me 3 outputs to plug in. I have all of one of the original outputs going across the top 3 (CH1 CH3 CH 5) and all of the other going across (Ch 2 Ch4 CH6)
Wait a second u have your speaker wired wrong completely. U have them wired to positive on 1 and positive on 3 on the orange speaker wires and to the negative on 2 and negative on 4 on the black speaker wires…..the orange is one set of speaker wires and the all black is the other set of wires correct….if that is what u have done thst is your first big thing we have to fix…they also could be wired correct i just csnt tell if u the speaker wired have one black and orange wire and one balck wire from the pics

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Speaker 1 is wired to +CH1 and -CH2. The +CH1 connects to the + side on the speaker. The-CH2 connects to the - side of the same speaker.
Speaker 2 is wired to +CH3 and -CH4
Positive wires have a red stripe, negative wires are all black
Are u running a sub? The reason i ask is u dont the sub output wired

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I have a sub. The one time I had audio from the 2 speakers, I had the sub connected with the switch set to 4 ohm, No audio came out of the sub. I have alternated trying to have it connected and disconnected to see if there was an issue the sub was causing.
Do this for me remove all rcas except the rcas coming the bluetooth receiver into channels 1 & 2 and let me know whst happens…so remove all rcas from amp except the rca that come from the br receiver and plug them into 1 & 1 input

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Same results.
Red protect and blue power lights come on together for 5 seconds, blue light only blinks rapidly for a while, the sub control blinks LO for a while while this is happening
then the Red protect blinks at a constant rate, while this happens, the sub control blinks all 888 at the same rate as red protect.

This is what I mean by sub control.

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Its definately a problem with how u have it wired with the rcas….do u have an aftermarket deck by any chance

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I do not have an aftermarket deck :(
I had searched across the web when this problem first happened. I came across a single post that said to use Y splitters to make it work.
How good of a ground do u have right now and make sure to change 3/4 to HPF

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Grounded directly to the battery - post.
Its definately a problem with how u have it wired with the rcas….do u have an aftermarket deck by any chance? Also chang emthe xover switch to 3/4 to HPF

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How should I think about the 6 channels of RCA inputs? Which ones correspond to the bridged 1/2 channel and which ones correspond to the bridged 3/4 channel?
Do I want the 1st bluetooth output to connect all to 1 speaker's equivalent RCA inputs?
Do I want 1 of each of the bluetooth output to connect to the corresponding rca inputs?

Also, just, thank you for taking the time, I really really appreciate it.
on your suggestion I tried:
Bluetooth output 1 to CH1RCA Input only with Bluetooth output 2 toCH2Rca input only.... no change
Bluetooth output 1 to CH1 and CH2 RCA Input with Bluetooth output 2 to CH3 and CH4 RCA input .... no change
Bluetooth output 1 to CH1 and CH2 and CH5 RCA Input with Bluetooth output 2 to CH3 and CH4 and CH6 RCA input... no change.

Originally I had
Bluetooth output 1 to CH1 RCA input 1 with Bluetooth output 2 to CH2RCA input only
Bluetooth output 1 to CH1 / CH3 / CH5 with Bluetooth output 2 to CH 2 / CH4 / CH6..... This is the only configuration that has had real audio output, but that was only to the 2 bridged speakers.

Is there a certain amount of time I need to fully remove power from the amp between attempts? I am wondering if I am putting it into an alarm state and not getting results because I don't have a good enough reset delay.
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