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Discussion Starter #1
I started with fabrication of sealed SW enclosure for JL audio W3 v3 driver which will be mounted in the left side of the trunk of BMW F30. Enclosure will be built to JL audio specs for this driver which is 19-20 Litre sealed. Back side of the enclosure will be made out of fiber-glass, baffle will be made out of plywood.....now onto pics

The driver - JL 10W3v3-4




car's side was protected with painters tape and Alu tape over it, waxed with Rexco demoulding wax







car was also protected



first layers of Fiberglass were layed down




4-layers total,....left it a couple of hours to cure and then removed it with a bit of brute force, lol




Then I made a quick volume test....20 litre+




and a few pics of the mold





I made a cardboard template for baffle




This is where Im at the moment with this build.....more pics tomorrow :D
 

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Nice work so far.

I did the same thing for my F36 (440i), except on the passenger side.
Worked out well for me, except I came up a bit short on the overall enclosure volume.

Sub'd to see the end result.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
That is the reason I went with left side enclosure,.... it measures 20 litre + atm, but I still have to beef up enclosure walls to 0,3-0,4", put one small brace and add damping mats to prevent enclosure ringing.
The shape will be more or less plain....the customer wish is only a simple enclosure, but Im already thinking how to make it a bit more appealing to the eye...maybe some beauty "ring" arround the enclosure perimeter and some relief lettering - JL logo,.....
 

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Discussion Starter #5
enclosure walls were beefed up and a layer of gel coat applied to the inside of the "mold".
plywood speaker baffle for driver was made and fit tested. Enclosure will also receive a layer of Silent Coat damping mats. ...so a few pics:




cardboare template



Test baffle - it fits so-so good, I will need to make small corrections , but nothing major


 

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Hi, how do you plan to secure the baffle to the fiberglass enclosure? Will you use some kind of glue or stretch cloth over the assembly then resing then mat etc.?
Thanks for sharing!
 

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Discussion Starter #7
first, baffle will be soaked with resin, then I will apply filler with strands on the "mold" edge where baffle should sit and it will be pressed down, all excess filler will be removed and then fiberglassed from the inside of enclosure. It will be a bit complicated to apply fiberglas trough the speaker opening on the baffle.
 

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Nice work! It looks like you got some good volume out of that!

I have made four fiberglass enclosures for myself, a spare tire well and three side enclosures pretty much the same as yours (I even used the tape tinfoil method). The side enclosures are definitely more work!

I wouldn't worry about a brace, the curves of the fiberglass are super strong and your baffle isn't that big.

I also always did a layer of fiberglass around the inside seam of the MDF baffle.... which is a PITA but ensures a perfect seal.
 

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I like how the fiberglass pulled away from the aluminum tape so cleanly. No stuck-on portions of painters tape. Was it difficult to get the fiberglass to stick to the portions where it would be hanging upside down? I find trying to get fiberglass mat to stick to vertical or upside down surfaces particularly difficult until it dries.
 

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Anxious to see the progress and end result... it's got me thinking about re-doing my sub enclosure.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
@Kanadian-Kaos: - The plan is to fiberglass that baffle from behind, I know it will be PITA, but that is the way to get things done as they should be - no shorting corners here. The other and easier way to do this is to "GLUE" baffle to the rest of enclosure with special Glue/resin/filler material that is used in boat industry for glueing boat parts together (boat body/deck).... the bond is airtight and extremely strong, but unfortunately I run out of it and wont buy the whole can just for this tiny box to be sealed, it i just too expensive.


@SUX 2BU: - First I tape off everything with painters tape, and over it a layer of Aluminium tape. Then I apply Formula5 de-moulding WAX which works very good. After it dries I apply a "layer" of resin and I let it to get "jelly" and then I apply few layers (up to 4, max 5) of mat/rowing (150-200g) and soak it gently with resin, but only so much it get soaked well without any resin excess. I apply fiberglass mat to the portions where it would be layed upside down first and then I apply mat to the horizontal walls (aka back wall and part of the fascia - those two will also help to hold up side layed mat in place. The mold before I pull it out is approx 2-4 mm thick, and later I beef it up to appropriate thickness.
 

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Good info, thanks for that. I think I soak the mat too much with resin at first and then it gets heavy and wants to fall off.
 

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Discussion Starter #14 (Edited)
Re: BMW F30 trunk side enclosure JL 10W3v3-4 by LBaudio

Made a new baffle that fits a bit tighter to the mold


speaker ring design




back side - edge was chamfered




speaker ring glued to the baffle and soaked with polyester resin


T nuts installed and glued in place with superglue


Test fit - driver to baffle, baffle to mold




Damping on back wall - later all sides will be damped with Silent Coat damping mats


ring and baffle protected with alu tape




test fit in a car




baffle on some parts glued to the mold with filler with strands



seams between mold and baffle were taped of to prevent resin to drip on front side - fiberglass was added from inside of enclosure to make strong bond and good seal


I put a small mirror in the box so I could see what Im doing...


this is where im at at the moment. Today I must finish with fiberglassing baffle to the mold from the inside of the enclosure....will post pics as I progress
 

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Agreed, really enjoying all the pictures and description of the progress, thank you!

Is there an advantage going to MDF for the speaker ring versus sticking with the ply that you used for the baffle itself? Was just curious if that was by design or just what happened to be available for material in that size for the day.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Thank you all for nice comments!

@ ajt976 - I had both materials avaliable, but somehow I prefer to work with MDF, especially when using T-nuts.

If you would go split hairs this might be beneficial because each material have its own res. freq, but on such small baffle such this it sure doesnt matter.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
I'm in the middle of doing the same thing to my E90 335i. I found out that it's harder than it looks ... you've done a really good job!
it helps to have all planed out and of course - practice makes perfect. Just take your time and have fun!
 
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